Copper Air Lines?

[looch]

I'm trying to save some space in my garage by moving my air compressor to the second floor. At the same time, I would like install some plumbing - basically just 2 or three couplers at convenient locations. What material could I use for the plumbing? I was thinking of using copper pipe - just not sure of what grade. I think this would be the simplest solution as far as tools go. How would you do it?

 

[Mike_Dumond]

1/2 inch 'L' copper pipe, not tubing, should get you what you need. Don't use the 'M' pipe, it has a thin wall.

Keep the greasy side down.
Mike

 

[Youare]

As Mike has said "L" grade copper tubing. Someone installed steel pipe where I work years ago. When a little moisture got in the lines when our air drier died we ended up with rust flakes in the lines. Copper is the way to go.

Randy

 

[Bird]

Paul, I'll agree with the other guys. And of course, all the "experts" say to not use PVC, but schedule 40 half inch PVC is what I (and a lot of other people) used.

 

[PitbullMidwest]

We used schedule 40 as air lines at work and they worked fine until the pressure relief failed on the compressor and exploded the line. Everyone was at lunch, luckily and no one was injured. If production was running the shrapnel could have very easily killed someone.

IMHO no one should use schedule 40 as air line.

 

[Jeff396]

I installed steel pipe at the last two houses I lived in and would like to avoid that nightmare if I can in my new house. I'm not familar with copper "L" pipe. How do you put it together and is it somewhat flexible eliminating all of the elbows during installation? What kinda pressure can you put through it? I'm looking to do this in the spring and would definatly like an easier installation process.

Jeff

 

[MJB]

I have seen type L copper, also known around here as ACR copper, in both soft and hard types. The soft variety can be easily bent with a tubing bender or by hand if you are not too fussy about appearance. We use large quantities of copper tubing here at work for building air conditioning compressor load test stands and calorimeters. I don't have the data right here in front of me but I am sure that ACR copper can handle several hundred PSI without any trouble. The smaller sizes have burst ratings in the several thousand PSI range. You should use silver solder to sweat the fittings together for maximum strength. Any air-conditioning and refrigeration supply house can provide you with the necessary materials. Hope this helps.

72% of all statistics are made up./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[looch]

Thanks guys. Should I be able to pick up L grade at the local home centre?

 

[rdln]

check out http://www.sharpe1.com/dr-pipe.htm
for helpful diagrams.

The farmers at another forum I frequent are always
debating PVC/CU air lines, one of them said OSHA shuts down
shops with exposed PVC lines.


Steve
Champagne Taste, Beer Budget

 

[DocHeb]

I usually overdo things, but copper over PVC is not overkill. The PVC will fracture with explosive force with minimal trauma when it is under pressure, especially if it is cold. The L type is connected with the typical solder/sweat fittings found at the store.

My compressor is in the basement, with copper lines in the workshop and out to the garage. I wired a pair of three way switches in the shop and garage that run to a motor contacter (a 120vAC coil driving a "Normally Open" 240vAC, 20Amp relay) that allows me to turn the compressor off and on from either location. I also plumbed a "Normally Open" solenoid in place of the drain valve so the air is let out of the tank when the AC is disconnected by the three way switches. This drains out the compressed air and the accumulated water that can rust the tank and lead to premature failure. I got the motor contacter and the solenoid from Grainger. The nice thing is this distant location is really quiet since the compressor is not in the work area, but in a side room.