Converting 2wd to 4wd

[rider]

Is it possible to convert a Cub Cadet model 7272 2wd to a 4wd? The model built by Mitsubishi for Cub that was 4wd was the 7274 about ten years ago.

 

[john_bud]

Sure is. Just open the hood and remove the radiator fill cap. Then put a 4wd tractor under it, then buy a new replacement fill cap.


Sorry for the smart a---lec answer, but the cheapest way to do that is to sell your tractor and buy a 4wd tractor. Anything else and the conversion costs will soon be more than the cost of a new tractor.

jb

 

[rider]

Thanks. I already knew that solution but can't quite see paying such a difference when I only have 337 hours on my 7272. I have been thinking about adding a fel but have hesitated due to the 2wd, although I do not plan to use the fel for hevy work just help out around the small acreage.

 

[RoyJackson]

Thanks. I already knew that solution but can't quite see paying such a difference when I only have 337 hours on my 7272. I have been thinking about adding a fel but have hesitated due to the 2wd, although I do not plan to use the fel for hevy work just help out around the small acreage.

You could add the FEL knowing this would not be optimal. Power steering would be of more value then 4WD, IMO. If your tractor doesn't have power steering, I don't think you should add the loader.

For small occasional jobs, I think you could get by without 4WD (or MFWD). Just because my 790 has 4WD doesn't mean I use it for every job (most though). There will be jobs requiring extra work due to the lack of 4WD...just depends if you can live with that.

Once you price out the FEL and hydraulics, you may decide to trade though.

 

[Soundguy]

Both 1955 vintage

2wd

No power steering


I agree with Roy....If ya got power steering.. your limited use FEL won't be too big of a problem...

Soundguy

Is it possible to convert a Cub Cadet model 7272 2wd to a 4wd? The model built by Mitsubishi for Cub that was 4wd was the 7274 about ten years ago.

 

[john_bud]

rider,

If you want to add an FEL, I agree with the others. You can do it, it will work - but not as well as a 4wd. But don't let that stop you! Tractors from the 40's, 50's, 60's, 70's typically didn't have 4wd and many did have FEL's. It is critical that you have enough weight on the back. Rule of thumb is 1.25 x the FEL max capacity. If possible, fill the rear tires to help lower the center of gravity and then put a 3pt weight equal to 100% of the FEL capacity. If you can, use check chains to hold the load up. Not required, but benefitial to the hydraulics in the long term.

If you can, try and add even more 3pt weight in increments. Determine the sweet spot for steering and traction in the "bucket full" and "bucket empty" states. The rear weight will lighten the front end by lever action, but may lighten it too much with no load in the bucket.

jb

 

[rider]

Thank you guys for the good ideas. I do have power steering and tires are filled with liquid and I plan to leave the 500 lb Befco finishing mower on the tractor. This hope will provide the weight needed. One thing you don't seem to see with tractor manufacturers is how much weight can your front axle handle? This would seem to me to be a critical point whether 2wd or 4wd with a FEL.

 

[Birdhunter1]

My tractor is 2wd with a loader, but it is also a 55hp utility instead of a light compact, the rears are filled on mine with calcium and when doing loader work it is preferable to have a heavy implement on the back but it still performs well when bareback.... but again it is a heavier tractor with larger tires full of fluid..
If you are not in soft conditions, on hills or doing heavy work you should be ok with a 2wd heavily ballasted, but if you don't have power steering you would not be satisfied with a loader on it.

 

[rider]

Thanks birdhunter for the info. By the time I make up my mind what to do I probably won't need the loader!

 

[john_bud]

Thank you guys for the good ideas. I do have power steering and tires are filled with liquid and I plan to leave the 500 lb Befco finishing mower on the tractor. This hope will provide the weight needed. One thing you don't seem to see with tractor manufacturers is how much weight can your front axle handle? This would seem to me to be a critical point whether 2wd or 4wd with a FEL.

I don't like the way a tractor works with a loooong attachment on the back for loader work. There is a lot of bending forces as you do a lot of forward/backward and close quarters direction changes. I will work,but will be awkward.

It sounds like you wont be using it a lot - everyone says that BEFORE they have an FEL. It's a different story AFTER they get one though.

good luck,
jb

 

[rider]

Thanks, John Bud. I have not thought about the swing and sway on the rear of the finishing mower. You are right, I don't plan to use it a lot but as you say I probably will find more things to use it for.

I went by John Deere Dealer today and looked again, and again, and again!
The truth of the matter is I don't want to give up a fine tractor which has served me almost flawless since 1997. I am not an impulse buyer and sometimes take too long to analyze and rationalize what I want to buy.

Talking to guys on these forums have really helped. Thanks.

 

[john_bud]

Yeah, you have a good working tractor now. Why get a payment?

koyker makes a FEL for your machine

Koyker Manufacturing Loader with 2in Cylinders

and

Koyker Manufacturing

I would imagine that Woods and Brushhog would also make similar units.

Don't fret about not having 4wd. It will still work, but you'll have to be more skillful to get full benefit. By the way, I would get one with the 2" cylinders.

jb

 

[rider]

John Bud, Koyker is the fel that I have been looking at and the 2inch cyl. is my choice. I will probably opt for the 5ft bucket instead of the 4ft. The dealer is about 30 miles from here and has given me a reasonable price installed at about $3550 with taxes. Later if I need to change the turf tires I might be able to find some R4 for about $500-$600 locally.

 

[RoyJackson]

john_bud: "I don't like the way a tractor works with a loooong attachment on the back for loader work."

Neither do I...and a rotary cutter is worse then a finishing mower.

rider, there's plenty of posts concerning Ballast Boxes...quite a few are home made for less then $100. I use one behind my 790...big improvement in traction and takes a lot of the load off the front axle.
So, you might want to look for one (new from Deere, the cost is about $200...got mine used for $90) or fabricate one.

 

[Soundguy]

You can make a cheap one for about 15$ if ya got a decent scrap pile laying around..

soundguy

 

[john_bud]

John Bud, Koyker is the fel that I have been looking at and the 2inch cyl. is my choice. I will probably opt for the 5ft bucket instead of the 4ft. The dealer is about 30 miles from here and has given me a reasonable price installed at about $3550 with taxes. Later if I need to change the turf tires I might be able to find some R4 for about $500-$600 locally.

Sounds good. Koyker is a good FEL. Made in America and priced reasonably.

Definately get the 5' bucket. You won't have any problem with that at all.

For a weight, if you can get one of those bars that go between the 3pt arms with all the holes in it. Often called a drawbar. Then build a wooden box around it with the 3pt pins sticking into the wood. The drawbar should be about 18" from the bottom and 12-16" above. Make the wood flush against the bar. Get some 3/8 x 2" strap to make the top link connection point. Bend the ends and bolt the them to the drawbar. Drill a hole about 1/2 way up and put a spacer in there and a 12" piece of rebar. That will keep the top link attachmet from coming out. Then fill the box up with cement. A 24x24x30" block of cement will be enough weight and won't breake the bank.

jb

 

[AndyMA]

I'd probably think about R4's or R1's sooner rather than later. They have so much better traction than turfs.

Andy

 

[RoyJackson]

I'd probably think about R4's or R1's sooner rather than later. They have so much better traction than turfs.

Andy

You're probably right, Andy...but maybe rider should see how his turfs do first. He's already looking at spending $3K plus to get the loader...and, for his tasks, those turfs might do fine!

 

[rankrank1]

Rider - As long as you are happy with the size of your current tractor I would not hesitate installing a Koyker or other aftermarket brand loader on the tractor you currently own. Since you say that you will not be working it heavy I think you will do fine with 2wd especially since you even have the luxury of PS. However, lets play devil's advocate and assume that you end up being unhappy with 2wd factor. If you were to trade for a different 4wd tractor of similar size class you could probably easily install your otherwise new loader by simply purchasing the different mounting kit which should not be a great deal of money.

FWIW - I have a Kubota L285 2wd with a factory FEL with 4' bucket and it does not have PS. My tractor may be slightly larger than yours, but not much (L285 = 26.5 PTO HP and weighs around 2450 lbs). I have been able to do everything that I have ever wanted to do with my 2WD non power steering tractor.

 

[NHGUY]

I think if you load your tires and add some extra weight to the three point hitch you will be fine. We farmed for years just using two wheel drive loader tractor and we had 200 head of dairy cattle so there was always lots of loader work to be done and those tractors handled it fine. I think you will be surprised at what you can do with a loader on a two wheel drive tractor.