Cold starts

[Jzondor]

When the snow blizzard came through last week, I was glad that I had just recently bought a ym3110 so I could clear my driveway. So I went out to start the old girl, it was about 4deg, and she wouldn't start. Ran the battery down 3 times and I'm sure I burned up the thermostat in the process.

I was able to get it to start yesterday, but it warmed up to 35deg.

Any suggestions on starting a cold tractor? I live in Oklahoma, so it only gets this cold one or two days in the year. Do I buy a cheap blow dryer? Warming blankets? Or is fitting a block heater worth it?

 

[Craig Clayton]

It sounds like you need a block heater. A 300 watt for 1 hr minimum 2 maximum will make the tractor start like a summers day. I do not know how many Hp your tractor is but up to about 30- 40 this should be fine. Most people do not want to wait for the tractor to heat on the block heater. You can use timers, remote starts for the heater. I plug it in and go and have breakfast. There are block heaters , lower rad hose heaters , there are other types but that is not what you need. I have a lower rad hose heater in a Kubota 26 HP it was an easy install. Block heaters can be more work.

Craig Clayton

 

[Jzondor]

It sounds like you need a block heater. A 300 watt for 1 hr minimum 2 maximum will make the tractor start like a summers day. I do not know how many Hp your tractor is but up to about 30- 40 this should be fine. Most people do not want to wait for the tractor to heat on the block heater. You can use timers, remote starts for the heater. I plug it in and go and have breakfast. There are block heaters , lower rad hose heaters , there are other types but that is not what you need. I have a lower rad hose heater in a Kubota 26 HP it was an easy install. Block heaters can be more work.

Craig Clayton

Thanks Craig. They install into the freeze plugs, correct?

 

[Craig Clayton]

Before you go ahead with the frost plug installation triple check on the size and location of the prefered frost plug. I have found over the years of looking after frost / block heaters ,block heaters are the best for continous heating but they also have a high rate of electrical connection burn offs. The lower rad hose install is viewed as the poor cousin but it is easy to check the size. It only hurts when you cut the hose but feels much better when the hose clamps pull tight.

Craig Clayton

 

[Roonabeck]

Are you sure the thermostart is working? I would have expected the tractor to start, although with some encouragement required. I've only started mine down at about 10 deg and when it's that cold I go through a few cycles of thermostart followed by cranking 3 sec or so with the compression release pulled to get some fresh air into the thermostart area. But it's always started without draining the battery.

 

[California]

Emergency starting:

Last year I tried 90% Biodiesel - and learned it doesn't start as readily as diesel. I didn't have trouble with gelling, just volatility.

This hairdryer hack worked. The tractor thought it was a nice spring day.

Another emergency start aid: Turn on a 2/10/50 charger (in '50amp-Start' mode) after you begin cranking. These chargers are only about $30 and well worth it. The thing will spin like mad.

And I'm sure you know this already - You can use the compression release for the first half-revolution of the engine to ease the strain on the battery, getting that heavy flywheel moving. Then when the starter is spinning the engine, drop the compression release. The inertia of the flywheel will assist the starter motor.

 

[Jzondor]

Thanks for the suggestions. I know the Thermostart was working because it was melting the snow. And I was using the decompressor to get it going.

I like the hairdryer mod. Might have to try it first. But I don't mind cutting up the radiator hose if it works. I'm also not scared of removing freeze plugs as I've fished a couple of them out of water channels before.

 

[winston1]

These might be of interest to you. http://www.hoyetractor.com/mm5/merc...de=HTE&Product_Code=BH-395-101&Category_Code= http://www.hoyetractor.com/mm5/merc...e_Code=HTE&Product_Code=BH-400&Category_Code=

 

[normde2001]

More info needed. Are you saying the engine spins over at normal speed but won't fire, or does not spin fast enough to start? You say you ran the battery down 3 times. How many volts in the battery and how many CCA's?

 

[Jzondor]

More info needed. Are you saying the engine spins over at normal speed but won't fire, or does not spin fast enough to start? You say you ran the battery down 3 times. How many volts in the battery and how many CCA's?

Spins at normal speed but won't fire.

I ran the battery down then I would stick it on a charger.

Not sure the CCAs, but it's a John Deere branded battery. Bigger than a normal car battery as it fits in the battery box in the front of the tractor.

 

[turnerbend]

Have you tried a multi grade oil That is thinner than the oil you are now using? It's hard on the battery when trying to turn the engine crank shaft over in thick cold oil. You can always go back to a heavy grade oil in the spring.

 

[normde2001]

If the engine spins at normal speed, but won't fire, you need to concentrate on air/fuel mixture. Make sure thermostart is working properly, (fire in intake manifold), and anti-gel fuel additive with cetane booster. It probably doesn't start well in warm weather either. All oil temp and viscosity does is make it spin easier.

 

[Jzondor]

If the engine spins at normal speed, but won't fire, you need to concentrate on air/fuel mixture. Make sure thermostart is working properly, (fire in intake manifold), and anti-gel fuel additive with cetane booster. It probably doesn't start well in warm weather either. All oil temp and viscosity does is make it spin easier.

Thanks for the info. It starts right up in the summertime. The wind was blowing hard enough to blow the snow onto the engine so it was like having a bag of ice on the engine.

 

[Transit]

Have you tried a multi grade oil That is thinner than the oil you are now using? It's hard on the battery when trying to turn the engine crank shaft over in thick cold oil. You can always go back to a heavy grade oil in the spring.

No need to change the oil in the spring, both a 15w40 and a 5w40 will perform to 122 F field temp. The 5w will make it eased for cold starts and get the oil pressure up faster.

 

[Roonabeck]

It starts right up in the summertime.

If it starts fine in the summer, and you already confirmed that ice is melting off of the intake manifold (from the thermostart), then you might try an anti-gelling diesel additive. I'm not sure what's typically already added to diesel in your area of the country.

 

[normde2001]

Thanks for the info. It starts right up in the summertime. The wind was blowing hard enough to blow the snow onto the engine so it was like having a bag of ice on the engine.

Oh, I thought you said you just bought it.

 

[Car Doc]

I have a similar tractor and I put a block heater in soft plug type and it works fantastic I have started mine at 20 deg and it started better than my pickup that was out too.

I used a Kats 10417/K4NB 400w it cost me $26 best money I will ever spend on my tractor I am sure.

When its inside my shop which gets 50 at night I will plug it in for an hour or so and it runs like its been running all day saves warm up time a bunch.

 

[Jzondor]

I have a similar tractor and I put a block heater in soft plug type and it works fantastic I have started mine at 20 deg and it started better than my pickup that was out too.

I used a Kats 10417/K4NB 400w it cost me $26 best money I will ever spend on my tractor I am sure.

When its inside my shop which gets 50 at night I will plug it in for an hour or so and it runs like its been running all day saves warm up time a bunch.

Thanks! Definitely will give this a try.

 

[Jzondor]

Oh, I thought you said you just bought it.

I did, a couple if days after I purchased it, it got up to 80degs.