Cold start issues, which fluid needs a heater?

   / Cold start issues, which fluid needs a heater? #41  
That thing with the 4 lines coming out of it is the fuel distributor. There could be a pump feeding the fuel distributor with low pressure. Low pressure could be defined as 5-50 PSI. Inside the fuel distributor will be another pump or two that creates high pressure. 1,200-1,500 bar is a common pressure. 1 bar is about 14.5 PSI. So that could be 18,000 PSI. That is why people warm you do not crack open fuel lines without wrapping a rag around the area if possible, wear safety protection and know safety protection can be useless against that kind of pressure.

The injectors are bolted to the head. The suggestion was to crack open a line to see if any diesel gets pumped out. If no gets pumped out, which you are describing, then the pump internally is clogged. Heat may let the ice and diesel thaw and dissolve. Setting a 100 watt light bulb with a reflector aimed at the injector pump may clean up the clumps of crud in the pump but will do little to clear up the clumps that may be in the lines from the pump to the injectors.

If you do a Google search for Bosch VE pump manual you may find a manual to download for free. It explains the concept of diesel pumps and distributors. Lots of tractors that were made from the mid 1950's until the diesel had increased pollution regulations used that style of pump and distributor. Bosch VE diesel fuel-injection pump manual. - 4x4 Community Forum has a link to the manual that may explain more accurately than my summary.
 
   / Cold start issues, which fluid needs a heater? #42  
Ok ... please view the attached pics. I checked for fuel, and I'm getting fuel to the pump. I don't know the proper nomenclature for these mechanical parts, so please fill me in. I'm guessing these are the injectors ... those 4 nuts/bolts that are right together and would shoot fuel up into the fuel lines. So, I'm calling that the "injector block" ... I'm getting fuel in there, because when I opened them up, there is fuel. I took the "injector bolts" apart and they did not appear to have any foreign material in them. When I turn the key to the "acc" position, I hear the fuel pump clicking like normal, and it is working to fill that "injector block" ... but is there a second pump? Something that moves the fuel at high PSI that maybe isn't working? Is it inside that "injector block" (again, that's what I'm calling it because I have no idea what its called).. ? When I crack those bolts/nuts, fuel "seeps" but never did "shoot" out.

I'm still getting absolutely ZERO fuel up into those lines because there's isn't a puff of smoke coming when I crank her.

Oh, and please, feel free to "Doctor" my photo to properly label the components I need to be involved with.

I'm open to suggestions...

I'm wondering if... if there is an internal high pressure pump, that it could have been damaged by the contaminated fuel, or the moisture... or something like that ...?

View attachment 414654

View attachment 414655

OK, the deal with the banjo fitting on it is part your injection pump, those steel lines that come out of that block..if you follow those to the cylinder head, your injectors are at the end of those lines.

I can't really see very well, but i'm thinking that electical plug in just to the front of your filter bowl probably goes to the fuel shutoff soleniod.
I can't see where it winds up....The fuel shutoff soleniod is what shuts the fuel off out of the injector pump when you turn the key off to kill the tractor...Or lets fuel go to the injectors when the key is on.

Try and find out if that plug goes to that fuel shutoff solenoid, if it does check for power and ground....put your hand on it have someone turn the key to on, see if you can feel it click in your hand...

Could be that solenoid...You will have to determine if it is working.
If no power to that, you will have to check relays, and ignition switch.
If all that is working than I would say injection pump, but you have to eliminate that fuel cutoff solenoid first, could be something as simple as a relay that supplies power to that unit.
 
   / Cold start issues, which fluid needs a heater?
  • Thread Starter
#43  
Thanks Jim, I'll try the light bulb overnight... Have to wait to charge up the battery anyhow, it's dead now.

GRM ... Yes there's a clicking at that solenoid, it's right behind the fuel filter. The fuel line goes out of the filter housing, to that solenoid/bladder... Then to the distribution block.

...

Now, I'm assuming that the high pressure pump is powered by the engine right after starting ... And not electric? Seems like it would take a lot of electric energy to pressurized it that much
 
   / Cold start issues, which fluid needs a heater? #44  
Thanks Jim, I'll try the light bulb overnight...

If you are just using a light bulb I'd make sure to pack blankets or other insulation and windbreaks around it. And, while it may seem obvious, don't forget to use a 100W incandescent bulb in this era of fluorescents/halogens and LEDs. A 1500W space heater would be even better. Or perhaps borrow your wife/daughter's hair dryer and use it for an hour or two. Didn't you mention a torpedo heater?? Maybe try that in the AM as well for an hour or so.
 
   / Cold start issues, which fluid needs a heater? #45  
i have inline block heater and i don't need glow plugs.
Been down to -40 c
works so far
hope it warms up to 0
 
   / Cold start issues, which fluid needs a heater?
  • Thread Starter
#46  
If you are just using a light bulb I'd make sure to pack blankets or other insulation and windbreaks around it. And, while it may seem obvious, don't forget to use a 100W incandescent bulb in this era of fluorescents/halogens and LEDs. A 1500W space heater would be even better. Or perhaps borrow your wife/daughter's hair dryer and use it for an hour or two. Didn't you mention a torpedo heater?? Maybe try that in the AM as well for an hour or so.

I actually had a heat gun pointed at it for about a hour earlier but that didn't help. I'll be using one of our hatching bulbs ... It's like 150w and red. I'll put it under the block and a blanket over the bay. It is in the barn so no wind issues.
 
   / Cold start issues, which fluid needs a heater? #47  
Your pictures clarify a lot.
There is only one high pressure injection pump as your photo with the banjo bolt shows. The banjo bolt is on the side of the injection pump.
It is driven by a gear from the front of the engine and is only powered when cranking or running.
Your note on the photo asking "are these the injectors," no they are the individual lines going to each injector.
I am with grm61 in being suspicious of the fuel cutoff solenoid as a possible culprit.
Water getting inside it and restricting movement of the solenoid plunger would certainly explain the cold weather aspect of your problems.
Why not try the tests he suggests and if there is no movement heat it with a hair dryer and check again.
The 4 lines you have above the banjo bolt which go to the injectors would only have fuel coming out after loosening each fitting at a time when the engine is cranking or running.
The amount of fuel which will come out will depend on the throttle position but will be a small amount.
Unlike a hydraulic line with the possibility of discharging a large volume at high pressure the pressure in the injector lines will only be high when restricted as when going directly to an injector which is closed and this high pressure forces it to open and spray fuel for the engine. Unless you hold your hand around the loosened fitting and crank the engine I don't see a safety issue to see if fuel comes out as you crank. In fact this would be the simplest test to confirm proper operation of the solenoid.
Dave M7040
 
   / Cold start issues, which fluid needs a heater? #48  
Thanks Jim, I'll try the light bulb overnight... Have to wait to charge up the battery anyhow, it's dead now.

GRM ... Yes there's a clicking at that solenoid, it's right behind the fuel filter. The fuel line goes out of the filter housing, to that solenoid/bladder... Then to the distribution block.

...

Now, I'm assuming that the high pressure pump is powered by the engine right after starting ... And not electric? Seems like it would take a lot of electric energy to pressurized it that much

The injection pump is gear driven off the motor..I didn't know you had not been able to heat it up with a torpedeo heater or anything....
in any case at this point, if getting it warm somehow does not work, it should put you in warranty territory if your not getting any fuel out of the injection pump.
 
   / Cold start issues, which fluid needs a heater?
  • Thread Starter
#49  
Your pictures clarify a lot.
There is only one high pressure injection pump as your photo with the banjo bolt shows. The banjo bolt is on the side of the injection pump.
It is driven by a gear from the front of the engine and is only powered when cranking or running.
I am with grm61 in being suspicious of the fuel cutoff solenoid as a possible culprit.
Water getting inside it and restricting movement of the solenoid plunger would certainly explain the cold weather aspect of your problems.
Why not try the tests he suggests and if there is no movement heat it with a hair dryer and check again.
The 4 lines you have above the banjo bolt which go to the injectors would only have fuel coming out after loosening each fitting at a time when the engine is cranking or running.
The amount of fuel which will come out will depend on the throttle position but will be a small amount.
Unlike a hydraulic line with the possibility of discharging a large volume at high pressure the pressure in the injector lines will only be high when restricted as when going directly to an injector which is closed and this high pressure forces it to open and spray fuel for the engine. Unless you hold your hand around the loosened fitting and crank the engine I don't see a safety issue to see if fuel comes out as you crank. In fact this would be the simplest test to confirm proper operation of the solenoid.
Dave M7040

Thanks for the clarification Dave ... Yeah, I checked that solenoid earlier, it is clicking, and it is moving fluid to the distribution block, so the problem has to be at the block/pump.

I should have clarified too, when I was monkeying around I did have that banjo bolt off for access so most of the fuel came out of the block. It did refill itself after I reconnected and turned on the ignition, so it's getting fuel to that point at least
 
   / Cold start issues, which fluid needs a heater?
  • Thread Starter
#50  
The injection pump is gear driven off the motor..I didn't know you had not been able to heat it up with a torpedeo heater or anything....
in any case at this point, if getting it warm somehow does not work, it should put you in warranty territory if your not getting any fuel out of the injection pump.

Question... If I take that side cover off, the plate facing us in the pic with 4 bolts... Will that allow better access to find any gunk or debris I'm there? Is there anything under tension in there that may pop out if I remove it?
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2014 Chevrolet Tahoe SUV (A49461)
2014 Chevrolet...
2022 Case IH Steiger 470HD AFS Connect RowTrac 4WD Tractor (A50657)
2022 Case IH...
2002 International 9200i Truck (A51039)
2002 International...
DEWALT ROTARY HAMMER (A50854)
DEWALT ROTARY...
2022 Case IH 8250 4WD Combine (A50657)
2022 Case IH 8250...
PALLET OF HYDRAULIC HOSES (A50854)
PALLET OF...
 
Top