Clean light bar on ROPS?

[Kodiak45]

Just finished my light install. I went overboard, but it was fun.
-Rear light bar with 4 pod lights to shine on 3pt linkages to make hookup easier.
-4 pod leds that I call my courtesy lighting that shines on the seats and controls
-2 small light bars mounted on loader arms with magnets so they can be removed or adjusted as necessary
-2 leds mounted on the left and right side of the canopy. These can be swiveled and angled to shine to the front, sides, or back.
-1 large curved light bar facing the front
- 6 led rocker switches all on relays and separate fuse panel with voltage display and usb accessory ports
I added an extra switch for a power port on the rear to use for a sprayer pump or whatever else.
I'm pleased overall, but I plan on adding a few more in areas and I'll change the angles on the rear pod hookup lights so that they cannot be seen from drivers seat. I really do not like glare from leds and I want no light to shine on the operator.
All connections were soldered and heat shrinked and sae 12v quick connects connect the lights in the back to the canopy in case it needs to come off one day. Still at 14.2 volts with all lights on, so plenty of amps left to add more lights! I look forward to getting some nighttime chores done once it warms up.

 

[npalen]

I don't see where any one has used the super magnets to mount light to the ROPS. Seems like it would be another solution.
Also, I've never seen a picture of a failed ROPS. Doesn't mean it hasn't happened, just saying that I have not seen a picture.

 

[Kodiak45]

A mfg can't automatically be exonerated from a failed ROPS accident if a hole is drilled in them. An engineer would still have to prove that the hole compromised the structure and caused it to fail, which should be easy to tell. Welding on rops would be a "no no" due to the affect that excessive heating could alter the metal integrity. If ROPS fail due to poor mfg, then that's pretty cut and dry. If a 1" hole is drilled in the rops and the metal were to buckle there, then that's pretty obvious why the failure occurred.

 

[Kodiak45]

I'm looking for some decent gauge coiled wire like phone chargers use to mount my magnetic leds. Anybody ever seen wire like this for sale?

 

[aczlan]

I'm looking for some decent gauge coiled wire like phone chargers use to mount my magnetic leds. Anybody ever seen wire like this for sale?

You could use a wire like a shaver power cord (such as: Amazon.com: T-Power for Philips Norelco , Remington , Grundig , Braun , Eltron Shaver Power Lead Electric Shavers Razors Cable Universal Shaver Cord, Coiled (( CHECK MODEL LIST IN DESCRIPTION ): Home Audio & Theater )

Aaron Z

 

[Kodiak45]

You could use a wire like a shaver power cord (such as: Amazon.com: T-Power for Philips Norelco , Remington , Grundig , Braun , Eltron Shaver Power Lead Electric Shavers Razors Cable Universal Shaver Cord, Coiled (( CHECK MODEL LIST IN DESCRIPTION ): Home Audio & Theater )

Aaron Z

Good call. I've probably got some old ones around somewhere. I'll see how they do. Thanks!

 

[aczlan]

Good call. I've probably got some old ones around somewhere. I'll see how they do. Thanks!

If not, check your local thrift store, they often have cables such as that available.

 

[lostcreekranch]

I'm looking for some decent gauge coiled wire like phone chargers use to mount my magnetic leds. Anybody ever seen wire like this for sale?

Not sure why you want “coiled” wire? First off, your wire ends up being way longer than it needs to be so, more voltage drop. Shaver cords and charger cables will be very small gauge wire.

Why not use properly sized wire, for your load and decent protection of the wires?

A couple of ideas.

Kable Kontrol PET Expandable Sleeving

Black Split Polyethylene Wire Loom Tubing

Many good ways to protect wire. Just google “electric wire protection”.

 

[Kodiak45]

Not sure why you want “coiled” wire? First off, your wire ends up being way longer than it needs to be so, more voltage drop. Shaver cords and charger cables will be very small gauge wire.

Why not use properly sized wire, for your load and decent protection of the wires?

A couple of ideas.

Kable Kontrol PET Expandable Sleeving

Black Split Polyethylene Wire Loom Tubing

Many good ways to protect wire. Just google “electric wire protection”.

I don't care about protection. I want the flexibility of a coiled wire that can stretch from 2' to xx', same reason the mounts are magnetic. I wouldn't use a 30 gauge wire, which is why I was looking for something heavier than typical cell phone charging cables. Voltage drop isnt even relevant unless you know wire size, load, and length, which has not even been mentioned.

 

[lostcreekranch]

I don't care about protection. I want the flexibility of a coiled wire that can stretch from 2' to xx', same reason the mounts are magnetic. I wouldn't use a 30 gauge wire, which is why I was looking for something heavier than typical cell phone charging cables. Voltage drop isnt even relevant unless you know wire size, load, and length, which has not even been mentioned.

Okay then.

 

[JB13502]

I'm looking for some decent gauge coiled wire like phone chargers use to mount my magnetic leds. Anybody ever seen wire like this for sale?

Fairly expensive, unless you can buy in bulk. Probably cheapest and easiest to buy an inexpensive coiled extension cord (Prime Ad61 1' 16/3 Sjt Orange Coiled Power Tool Cord - Extension Cords - Amazon.com) and cut off what you need.

16 gauge is plenty enough for lighting, and orange looks good on ANY tractor, LOL:laughing:

 

[Kodiak45]

Yes, 16 gauge would work just fine. This is definitely another option I will look into. Thanks!

 

[npalen]

Just a thought here: Why not use hi-strength magnets to eliminate the need for any mod to the ROPS and has anyone ever heard of a ROPS failing?

 

[bdhsfz6]

Just a thought here: Why not use hi-strength magnets to eliminate the need for any mod to the ROPS and has anyone ever heard of a ROPS failing?

Take a look at the pics in post #38 in this thread. I used magnets to attach switch box and wiring. I suppose I could have mounted the lights with magnets as well. Years ago, I made a bracket that sits on top of the ROPS which fits every Kubota tractor I've owned. I just reuse it instead of fooling around with another method. The bracket also has an advantage since the lights do not have to be re-aimed every time they are moved.

 

[npalen]

Neat install!

 

[PILOON]

Just a thought here: Why not use hi-strength magnets to eliminate the need for any mod to the ROPS and has anyone ever heard of a ROPS failing?

Exactly what I use for my strobe and rear flood lights.
About 2.5-3" dia with a center hole to take 1/4" fasteners.

One benefit is if I hit a branch or other obstruction the magnet mounted light simply slides off thus no damage.
Also with magnet mounting you have endless positioning options without drilling holes.

 

[HDJJT]

I was wondering how you all have made a bar to attach to the ROPS, to mount your lights on? I need something that will tuck in the ROPS so that when I brush against a tree limb, the limb goes against the ROPs and doesn't hit the lights.

Curious to see what people made and how their attaching to the ROPS. My current is just some angle iron, nothing fancy. Looking for a cleaner setup.

Have a look at the Kit we designed at this link -->

 

[Tbrac]

I was wondering how you all have made a bar to attach to the ROPS, to mount your lights on? I need something that will tuck in the ROPS so that when I brush against a tree limb, the limb goes against the ROPs and doesn't hit the lights.

Curious to see what people made and how their attaching to the ROPS. My current is just some angle iron, nothing fancy. Looking for a cleaner setup.

Check out the light kit by Tractorbracket.com

 

[5030]

I drilled and tapped mine into the rops just using sheet metal screws. Nice and easy but a good idea to dab a little paint after drilling just to cover the bare metal.

Don't EVER plan on selling or trading it in because what you did is highly illegal as far as the ROPS is concerned and if you trade it in the trade in dealer will have to replace it before it can be resold to anyone and you, as the original owner are liable for the replacement cost.

You obviously never read the sticker on the ROPS or in your owners manual where it states that modifying the ROPS voids the warranty as well as the structural soundness of it.

 

[Williy]

For clamps 2 flat pieces of metal drill hole in each end
and bolts long enough to fit. cheap fix

willy