Change oil before winter even though hours are low?

   / Change oil before winter even though hours are low? #21  
break in oil really doesn't matter anymore, we get what comes from factory in new engines. going back the OP question, imho yes, 20 hrs on a new zero turn engine would warrant a change regardless even what the owners manual recommends. oil change intervals have been extended for enviro concerns, not the longevity of engines, etc in those manuals.... so make that 1st change now. & document for warranty.

yes to what has been suggested, use full syn engine oil,. & don't forget the initial hyd oil/filter change schedule, (go full syn for that as well) for engine oil, i use Rotella T6 on mowers & tractor. best regards
 
   / Change oil before winter even though hours are low? #22  
I'm surprised it doesn't specify break-in oil change at 5 hrs.
 
   / Change oil before winter even though hours are low? #23  
I'm surprised it doesn't specify break-in oil change at 5 hrs.
correct. maybe in a forced oil filter system, it may be longer, but agree, i'd err to low hrs for 1st break in change on a smaller engine...back to the original question, change now
 
   / Change oil before winter even though hours are low? #24  
Hmm, I been schooled on oil today. I had no idea break-in oil was old school stuff.

Thats why i come here
 
   / Change oil before winter even though hours are low? #25  
I am not sure what engine you have, but Kawasaki recommends the oil and filter be changed at 5 hours.
 
   / Change oil before winter even though hours are low? #26  
I have My ZD326 serviced every February for oil, new blades, filters, leveling, etc. Then replace blades, change oil, and minor adjustments as needed. Usually start mowing in march and go into November. usually 6 acres at a whack, sometimes more. I don't like letting oil set through winter. It can get moisture in it.
 
   / Change oil before winter even though hours are low? #27  
I have a zero turn that I purchased in July. It has only 20 hours on it. The manual says to change the oil every 50 hours. It seems on this forum many people change the oil before winter. Not sure if that is wasteful without only 20 hours. Could it wait until next summer when it clocks 50 hours?
Look on your oil container and note if it has an expiration date on it. If not then go by hours. If you go by time periods then you could have a year that it was only ran 1 hour. Would you still change oil after one year time period? (When you purchased it new do you think oil was added on date of purchase or date of manufacturing or date of delivery to dealer?) Setting around and only being used occasionally causes more harm than the time period oil is in a motor. Oil never wears out, it just gets contaminated. That's the reason you see some oils advertised as "environmental friendly" containing up to 50% reprocess oil. Use a quality oil with a (HD) filter to match extended run time. Mobile 1 synthetic works excellent for me in zero turn and New Holland Workmaster 50.
 
   / Change oil before winter even though hours are low? #28  
As a previous post said “oil is cheap, machines are not”. I change my oil in the winter when I put my mower to bed. I don’t want dirty oil sitting in the crankcase all winter no matter the amount of hours. Sludge and dirt will just settle in the engine over the winter.
That's should have been filtered out by your filter.
 
   / Change oil before winter even though hours are low? #29  
Oil is cheap, repairs aren't. With a new engine I would change the oil now. The best of manufacturing leaves some near microscopic imperfections that get cleared up in the first few hours of running. Just about all are caught by the filter, some may not be. I may be old school, but I change the oil on a new engine in the first ten hours and after that at the recommended interval
 
   / Change oil before winter even though hours are low? #30  
I think if you want to change it at 20 or 50 either one. But after winter.
 
   / Change oil before winter even though hours are low? #31  
I'm surprised it doesn't specify break-in oil change at 5 hrs.
Tin plated piston rings have solved that problem.
 
   / Change oil before winter even though hours are low? #32  
I try to to do repairs and service work by during the off season. When the season gets here, I don't have to use valuable time doing stuff like that.
 
   / Change oil before winter even though hours are low? #33  
Change it as soon as convenient.
Bear in mind the first oil change will:
Let you find little pieces of metal all around - or hopefully not
Let you put in a top notch oil -
Let you "standardize" the process - do you need any special tools or techniques for removing/replacing filter(s), draining/refilling.
Let you know how much space do you need to do it in.
 
   / Change oil before winter even though hours are low? #34  
Tin plated piston rings have solved that problem.
I dunno, who cares, it's a simple oil change. You're about to take a long drive, you take a preventive pee, same story.
 
   / Change oil before winter even though hours are low? #35  
New2, if you had asked about any other oil change than the first one I would say to wait. And even for the first one I don't think that waiting 'til Spring will do one bit of harm.

But.... just for something to think about, not all oil changes are done for the same reason. The very first oil change is not done because the oil is old or dirty or worn out. You don't change it the first time for the same reason you will change it from then on out. The first oil change is at low hours because it is mainly done to get the inevitable manufacturing debris out of the engine.

So for this first change, the hours to do it are a bit lopsided if you follow me. It probably won't hurt to wait, but there might possibly be an advantage to doing it early. I would personally regard the 50 hours as a Maximum.. I believe I changed the oil on my last tractor at about 40 hours and again before a 100. After that, you may want to go for extended intervals.

Here's something that might interest you, consider saving that first oil filter to open up someday (an old style can-opener is best - no particles) and have a look inside. You may be amazed at the amount of metal in there. Don't worry, that just means the filter is doing its job.

If you want to look at the oil itself, carefully put some drops of the used dirty oil onto a pad of blotting paper and put it aside to set for a few days or longer.
Then put the paper under a magnifying glass or dissecting microscope or what have you.... and have a look. You will see how the old oil has spread out and formed concentric rings of oil, soot, dirt, possible additives, and of course some fine metallic dust - not necessarily in that order.

You can even save the oil blots to compare with next year's oil.

There's lots more fun to be had here than just cutting grass ....
rScotty
rScotty, you have nailed it on all points! People like you are what make these forums soo useful!
 

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