Cat 1/2 Hook-Up Hard

[Spike56]

JD2355 Cat 1 and Cat2.
Having a lot of issues getting equipment connected to the 3-point. I have the sway blocks set for Cat 1, but when I go to hook up (3-point sprayer for example), if I do not position the tractor exactly right, I cannot get both lower pins on because one arm will hit the sway block/s. Extending the arms does not help either. Luckily, I can push the sprayer once I get one side on, but still, it is a pain. Heavier pieces, like my box blade.... can not manually push around. Of course, I eventually get it connected, but it is a struggle.
Considered "longer" bottom pins on the sprayer ?

I do not want to purchase a "quick connect" for the back end- I only own a few pieces of equipment. Anyone else have this issue ? Have not been around tractors all my life. Am I overlooking anything ?

 

[workinonit]

For years that's the only method we had to hook up implements. The telescoping draft arms makes hooking up easier but if you want to solve the problem you need to get a quick hitch, no matter if you want to or not. I never had one until I got my last tractor and I wouldn't have a tractor now without one.

 

[Spike56]

That's what I was afraid of... that is, the solution is a quick hitch.
I am uncertain if I get one, how / if it will effect the shafts on my seeder or post hole digger ? Maybe would be okay ?
Does anyone have a recommendation for a quick hitch ? The bottom pins on my tractor are Cat2, but all my implements are Cat 1.

 

[duramaxsky]

Post hole digger don't normally work with a quick hitch.

 

[workinonit]

Yes, a post hole digger is a different creature. It won't work on a quick hitch without modification that would affect the range of motion of the PHD.

 

[Have tractor did travel]

As you surmise, a quick hitch will move your implement away from the PTO, and you may need longer shafts.
I've found that leaving my implements on something hard and smooth - like a 4 x 4 - allows me to slide them to make the connections easier.
Pat's quick hitch seems good, but you'd want to get that accessory that holds the stabilizing arms apart. I bought a Harbor Freight quick hitch and found all of my implements needed to be adjusted in order to make it work. I finally sold the HF hitch and went back to fighting with my implements.

 

[jeff9366]

Three-point hitch specifications

Category	Hitch pin size		Lower hitch spacing	Tractor drawbar power
	upper link	lower links
0	17 mm (5⁄8")	17 mm (5⁄8")	500 mm (20")	<15 kW (<20 hp)
1	19 mm (3⁄4")	22.4 mm (7⁄8")	718 mm (28")	15-35 kW (20-45 hp)
2	25.5 mm (1")	28.7 mm (1 1⁄8")	870 mm (34")	30-75 kW (40-100 hp)
3	31.75 mm (1 1⁄4")	37.4 mm (1 7⁄16")	1010 mm (40")	60-168 kW (80-225 hp)
4	45mm (1 3⁄4")	51 mm (2")	1220 mm (48")	135-300 kW (180-400 hp)

Inure yourself to changing the sway bar settings when changing from Cat 1 implements to Cat 2 implements. There is a 6" difference in spacing.

 

[Tx Jim]

Alternative to quick hitch is Pat's QH. These Pat's adapters can be be utilized on both Cat l & Cat ll implements unlike standard quick hitch & don't require all implement centerlink attachment locations to be identical dimensions.

 

[Spike56]

Alternative to quick hitch is Pat's QH. These Pat's adapters can be be utilized on both Cat l & Cat ll implements unlike standard quick hitch & don't require all implement centerlink attachment locations to be identical dimensions.

I had purchased these last year. Ended up giving them away. The tips on my lower arms are "curved/angled" slightly and the Pat's just DID NOT fasten up good - good enough that I would trust them. I had to use all the shims that come with the kit, even so, they did not align very well. But, thanks for the suggestion.
I would rather have a "frame" style that has (3) connects to the tractor if I buy one at all.

 

[Spike56]

Three-point hitch specifications

Category	Hitch pin size		Lower hitch spacing	Tractor drawbar power
	upper link	lower links
0	17 mm (5⁄8")	17 mm (5⁄8")	500 mm (20")	<15 kW (<20 hp)
1	19 mm (3⁄4")	22.4 mm (7⁄8")	718 mm (28")	15-35 kW (20-45 hp)
2	25.5 mm (1")	28.7 mm (1 1⁄8")	870 mm (34")	30-75 kW (40-100 hp)
3	31.75 mm (1 1⁄4")	37.4 mm (1 7⁄16")	1010 mm (40")	60-168 kW (80-225 hp)
4	45mm (1 3⁄4")	51 mm (2")	1220 mm (48")	135-300 kW (180-400 hp)

Inure yourself to changing the sway bar settings when changing from Cat 1 implements to Cat 2 implements. There is a 6" difference in spacing.

Hi Jeff, thanks for the reply. I am not sure how to change the sway bar setting ? If I understand (doubtful for me), the only "setting" I have is for the "cat1 /2" Blocks you flip on the frame ? There is no bar going across from side to side. I have a bungie cord from one arm to the other to reduce any banging around.
So, if there is another adjustment....?
When fitting a Cat1 implement, the issue is, getting the alignment such that BOTH arms will go on and I can pin them. I get one side, then try to put the other lower arm on and it hits the sway block. Aligned perfectly, they both go on a Cat 1 pin (with a sleeve of course for Cat2) and hookup is okay. So, as mentioned, I have to shove the implement over to one side to get the other arm on.

 

[WranglerX]

Quick hitch solves most of the hook up issues, back up to implement with QH in low position, get aligned (driving skills needed) and lift 3PH to grab implement, snap locks, be happy....

Only issue may be modding implement connect points (once) to be compatible as a lot of manufacturers don subscribe to exact QH standards...

 

[Avenger]

I recently installed the "european syle" hooks and balls on my tractor. AMAZING QH. Does not add any length to the implements (no need to buy new PTO shafts), not possible to come loose (like the Pats), parts are widely available, but more importantly, they hook and unhook from the implements with ease!

Check out my install video:

 

[CH4Ohio]

One option that seems very appropriate on smaller tractors is to reverse the 3-point hitch pins on the implement. In other words, instead of having them stick out, turn them the other way so your hitch arms are inside and fasten to pins that point inward. Most of my implements have hitch pins that are threaded and just attached with a lock washer and nut. Easy to remove and reverse.

This way you don't have to fight to get the arms spread to the most extreme and then position the tractor so exactly. You'd back up to the implement with the arms close together and within the frame of the implement instead of outside it. Once you get the first one on, it's easy to bump the tractor forward or backward and line up the other one as usual.

Might not work on every application or on pins that are welded, but about half of my stuff has these threaded pins that could be reversed.

 

[Spike56]

One option that seems very appropriate on smaller tractors is to reverse the 3-point hitch pins on the implement. In other words, instead of having them stick out, turn them the other way so your hitch arms are inside and fasten to pins that point inward. Most of my implements have hitch pins that are threaded and just attached with a lock washer and nut. Easy to remove and reverse.

This way you don't have to fight to get the arms spread to the most extreme and then position the tractor so exactly. You'd back up to the implement with the arms close together and within the frame of the implement instead of outside it. Once you get the first one on, it's easy to bump the tractor forward or backward and line up the other one as usual.

Might not work on every application or on pins that are welded, but about half of my stuff has these threaded pins that could be reversed.

Wow, I am somewhat baffled by this ? For me, the issue is, (Cat2/Cat1 tractor) the lower arms Minimum spread is too small. That is, when I put one side on, the other sides arm will hit the (cat1/cat2) blocks... and unless I shove the implement over, the other arm will not go on all the way. If I flipped the pins, I could not possibly get the lower arms close enough to each other to slide over the pins ?
I have always had issues, I think because the JD2355 is a Cat1 & Cat2 ? Made for both, but not great for either ? Although, some equipment hooks up a lot easier than others.

 

[LouNY]

Myself I have little use for quick hitches.
You say your Deere is a cat 1 or 2 with different sway blocks for 1 and 2.
These I would guess would be inner limits,
do you have adjustable outer sway bars?
If so when you back up lower your lift arms under the pins at the appropriate spot stop.
Unpin your outer sway bar limiter, swing the lift arm out, lift the arm and position it on the pin,
repeat on the other side, connect the top link and lift the implement slightly push it towards one side or the other and repin
outside sway bar on the proper side repeat for the other side.

Of course the nicer way would be to add the Euro hooks.

 

[workinonit]

I've had several tractors with the blocks instead of the stay bars. Like you said they are good at times but not goo for everything they claim to be.

 

[WranglerX]

The concept of the standardized QH was supposed to eliminate all the above mentioned issues....One just has to follow, conform to the standard that works best in his/her tractor if implement does not fit desired QH (cat1 or cat2 or cat?) just make it happen one time (modify implement) and be happy forever....

 

[CH4Ohio]

I've really never seen the need for quick hitches either. I guess if I was changing implements routinely throughout the day that would be different. I usually attach something and then use it for the day or several days.

I've never seen anything that I couldn't attach to using the standard linkage pins and adjustments on my 3-point hitch either. I do tend to kick the arms to drive them home on the pins, but that should be specified in the manual anyway.

 

[fruitcakesa]

Never used QH as I rarely need to switch implements daily.
Telescoping arms make most hook ups pretty simple.

 

[rScotty]

Yeah, I'm thinking we need to see some photos. They just aren't that hard to hook up. With telescoping arms I don't see much advantage to the quick hitches except it's another clever gizmo to admire. As for function, std 3pt hitches seem easy enough.
Maybe it isn't set up right.