Can't load my tractor!

[Jay4200]

Yeah don't drive on without the trailer hooked up. I did this several times with a 4 wheeler trailer we had at work. It was a very small, short trailer, just big enough for the 4 wheeler. I got to where if I did it very slow, it would work. The problem is the rise in the front of the trailer and then the slamming back down can be very sudden and hard. On this little trailer, loading a 4 wheeler, no damage was done but only because it was so small and the weight was low, on a big trailer with a heavier tractor, alot of damage could be done.

I've done that several times with my ATV too onto a 250# trailer - which is precisely the reason I didn't try it with my 2000# trailer and 6000# tractor. I could only imagine the carnage.

JayC

 

[Jay4200]

Got a photo of the back of the trailer? actually, truck and trailer would help too. We had a cotton picker that was hard to load with short ramps. We made a longer ramp by using 4x4's about 4 feet long, and set the regular ramps on top of it.

How much $$$ you want to throw at this? could you modify the trailer and put a short beavertail on it?

This is the best pic I could find - I don't have one of truck/trailer on flat ground. Ignore the screwed up exposure too - I cranked up the brightness so you can see the trailer ramps. Negative on the backhoe for loading/unloading too. I've done plenty of manipulation with my BH, and I could load with it, but it's not the kind of solution I'm looking for. Besides, there's that whole tipping over thing...

I'm not going to modify the trailer - I'd dump it and get a new one first. However, I'm trying to avoid that too - I'm not going to be hauling this thing around much, maybe a couple of times a year at best, so I don't want to go too crazy. I think getting a taller hitch (ball, BTW) is my best chance for now - I think the front rides lower than the back (its been a while). I need to take some measurements first, but I think I can raise the front 4-6", which might just do the trick.

JayC

 

[Jay4200]

Since you have 4 wheel drive, how about this expensive option? - build wheels to replace the skid shoes on your out riggers and drive drive on with front wheel pulling you until the back tires touch the ramps. Then you can raise the outriggers and drive the rest of the way.

That's just crazy enough to work! That'll be plan 'C'.

JayC

 

[Erik_in_Hoyt]

This is the best pic I could find - I don't have one of truck/trailer on flat ground. Ignore the screwed up exposure too - I cranked up the brightness so you can see the trailer ramps. Negative on the backhoe for loading/unloading too. I've done plenty of manipulation with my BH, and I could load with it, but it's not the kind of solution I'm looking for. Besides, there's that whole tipping over thing...

I'm not going to modify the trailer - I'd dump it and get a new one first. However, I'm trying to avoid that too - I'm not going to be hauling this thing around much, maybe a couple of times a year at best, so I don't want to go too crazy. I think getting a taller hitch (ball, BTW) is my best chance for now - I think the front rides lower than the back (its been a while). I need to take some measurements first, but I think I can raise the front 4-6", which might just do the trick.

JayC

try flipping the hitch over -- bull the ball, flip the hitch, install the ball -- if you already have a 2" drop hitch, this should give you the 4" you want.

 

[firemanpat2910]

I agree with raising the front of trailer. that might not be enough though. I have a trailer with ramps that are 8' long yes 8 feet!!!! I use it to haul my forklift on. keeps the angle very slight and solved all clearance issues, But boy are they HEAVY!

 

[Diamondpilot]

Man, those ramps are short. I would weld on 2' long extensions to the ramps. That would probably take care of it. Could be done at my local welding shop for a Case of Bud Light and $100 for materials.

Chris

 

[20 20]

From looking at your trailer picture, those ramps are SHORT, mine are twice that. Your problem isn't your trailer it's your ramps.

 

[tractorski]

how about putting some pieces of 2x10 or someting similar under the ramps where they sit on the ground? This might give you enough room.

 

[Egon]

Seems I have the same problem but smaller tractor and bigger trailer.

I have jacks on the back of the trailer so it can't lift the tongue. I also have to use 6x6 x 4 Ft. long wooden baulks under the ramps to get the clearance.

For your situation extending the ramps may be the best solution but these will be heavy. Consider building two wooden ramps from two inch wood material that you can handle and store sep[aretly on the trailer.

[ the two jacks on the back of the trailer work well as just yesterday my neighbour pulled my Field Ornament onto the trailer with his tractor.

Pic of loaded trailer attached.
Pic. of field ornament.

 

[Jay4200]

From looking at your trailer picture, those ramps are SHORT, mine are twice that. Your problem isn't your trailer it's your ramps.

It really doesn't matter. The front and back wheels are 6' apart. With ramps any shorter than 6', the front wheels are still 2' up on the deck with the back wheels on the ground. In order to solve the problem by lengthening the ramps, I'd have to double the wheelbase - and good luck working with 12' ramps! The planks on the ground will work, I just need to stack more of them. If I can get a decent set of handles to mount on the plank assemblies so I can actually grab them, I can handle considerably more weight. Off to Home Depot on the way home from work today...

I also took some measurements and recalculated the proper hitch height - I need to pick up 3" to get level. This only buys me 1.5" at the back, but every little bit helps. I tried to flip my ball mount, but the ball mounting nut is hopelessly stuck - I attacked it with dual pipe wrenches with 5' handle-extensions, a MAPP torch, and a quarter can of PB Blaster, and still couldn't get it to budge. I'm going to have to buy another ball and mount, I guess.

JayC

 

[Jay4200]

how about putting some pieces of 2x10 or someting similar under the ramps where they sit on the ground? This might give you enough room.

That is what I did - well, in front of the ramps, but the end result is the same. I made a plank from 3 2x10s - 5.5' then 5' then 4.5'. This lifts the back end just before the BH frame hits the ground, but the frame remains only about 2.5-3" off the ground, and ends up hitting the back of the plank. If I continue the wooden ramp with another couple of planks, I can solve the problem, but weight becomes an issue - I'm not nearly as strong as I used to be. Unfortunately for my aching back, adding more boards looks like the only workable solution.

JayC

 

[linearxs]

Not a real solution unless you have a portable air compressor, but you could just let the air out of your trailer tires.

 

[MESSMAKER]

Put a shop jack under the hitch ball with the trailer hooked up. Jack it up as high as it will go. That should drop the back of the trailer to just a few inches off the ground. That plus your extra ramp should take care of the problem.

 

[firemanpat2910]

Since you have 4 wheel drive, how about this expensive option? - build wheels to replace the skid shoes on your out riggers and drive drive on with front wheel pulling you until the back tires touch the ramps. Then you can raise the outriggers and drive the rest of the way.

My question about this method is brakes? tractors dont have front brakes,when you push in the clutch and hit the brake pedals with rear tires in the air you might go forward/you might go backward/ but you sure aint stopping.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Extending the ramps will work. Its not the length that will make the difference its the angle. I had to make a guy I know a stet of 10' long ramps so they could load the man lift for his garage door install company.

Chris

 

[KeithInSpace]

I tend to agree with working on the ramps. I have a smaller tractor, but the exact same issue when I mount my backhoe...the frame to the BH scrapes the ground before the back wheels even come close to engaging the ramps. My ramps aren't much longer than yours, but I have a dovetail which helps a little.

Try this: DON'T feel obliged to put the top of your 'ramp extension planks' at the top of the metal ramps. On mine, I essentially have two 8' long 4 x 12 boards (double thick 2 x 12's) that I lay so they only go halfway up the metal ramps. By the time my front wheels start rolling up the steeper metal ramps, my back wheels are on the boards. So by the time the front kicks up to drag the BH frame, the rear wheels are a foot off the ground. The BH frame swings harmlessly in the air between the wood planks.

Just play with the angle of attack on your wood planks. I'm 100% certain there is SOME way to get it on there.

 

[two_bit_score]

This is the best pic I could find - I don't have one of truck/trailer on flat ground. Ignore the screwed up exposure too - I cranked up the brightness so you can see the trailer ramps. Negative on the backhoe for loading/unloading too. I've done plenty of manipulation with my BH, and I could load with it, but it's not the kind of solution I'm looking for. Besides, there's that whole tipping over thing...

I'm not going to modify the trailer - I'd dump it and get a new one first. However, I'm trying to avoid that too - I'm not going to be hauling this thing around much, maybe a couple of times a year at best, so I don't want to go too crazy. I think getting a taller hitch (ball, BTW) is my best chance for now - I think the front rides lower than the back (its been a while). I need to take some measurements first, but I think I can raise the front 4-6", which might just do the trick.

JayC

With your current trailer as a trade wouldn't you be better off in the long run to just get a trailer that will work best for your tractor?

 

[Iplayfarmer]

With your current trailer as a trade wouldn't you be better off in the long run to just get a trailer that will work best for your tractor?

With so many restrictions, I'm thinking that's the best bet too. Someone out there is wishing they had that exact same trailer, and there are other trailers out there with lower decks that would be ideal.

 

[Steve C]

That is what I did - well, in front of the ramps, but the end result is the same. I made a plank from 3 2x10s - 5.5' then 5' then 4.5'. This lifts the back end just before the BH frame hits the ground, but the frame remains only about 2.5-3" off the ground, and ends up hitting the back of the plank. If I continue the wooden ramp with another couple of planks, I can solve the problem, but weight becomes an issue - I'm not nearly as strong as I used to be. Unfortunately for my aching back, adding more boards looks like the only workable solution.

JayC

This might just work.
I have an adjustable trailer hitch on my truck, I think it is a Reece. I paid about 30 dollars for it on clearance at Wal-Mart.
I think it normally sells for about twice that. It consists of a "L" shaped part that slips into the reciever with holes drilled through the vertical part of the "L" and a square tubular section that slides up and down on the square vertical shaft with a couple more sets of holes drilled in it. It is held in place with hitch pins. The tubular section has the horizontal plate that the ball mounts to attached to it. The "L" shaped part can be inserted with the vertical part up or down giving a very large range of adjustment.
If you had one of these hitches you could install the "L" part vertical up, connect your trailer to it, place a block under your trailer jack, pull the hitch pins, use your trailer jack to raise the front of your trailer 12 or 14 inches , dropping the back 12 or 14 inches, then as the hitch slides up to its maximum height reinsert the pins to hold it there. Load the tractor, pull the pins, and lower it back down. You might have to remove the "L" part and insert it with vertical down to get it low enough for a level tow. I will try to take a couple pictures to better explain this is a few minutes.

 

[gboudreau]

Use a set of vehicle ramps like you would use to dive up on to change your oil. Place them behind or in front of your rear wheels and drive up on them therefore lowering the rear of the trailer. That with some long ramps should work. Just make sure to block under the rear of the trailer so the weight does nto lift up the rear tires of the ramps.