Call me Mr. Lucky

[gcp]

Thanks for the input guys. I'll try your suggestions and get back to you on Sunday.

 

[gcp]

Not my best paint job but it will serve its purpose I guess. It took 2 spray cans of orange, and ¼ of white for my YM’s sheet metal to become protected from the elements. I’ll buff and touch up later, if/when necessary.

The new swing chain is in and after adjusting both there was no more hitting of the tires with my “poor man’s scoop”, bush hog, and box blade. But I did move the lift pins on the inside of all my implements and that solved the “banging”.

My bush hog cuts well but the ground scuffing continues no matter how much I try adjusting it. I’ve not tried the chain idea yet, need to think about it some more, but my unit seems very heavy and don’t know if I’ll ever be able to avoid ground scuffing with the hilly terrain I have to deal with. But at least the results of my first peas, and corn crop planting are already visible, it’ll help keep the critters fed….and maybe some of this food will trickle down to us

For more pics go to George/Property - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

 

[normde2001]

"My bush hog cuts well but the ground scuffing continues no matter how much I try adjusting it. I’ve not tried the chain idea yet, need to think about it some more, but my unit seems very heavy and don’t know if I’ll ever be able to avoid ground scuffing with the hilly terrain I have to deal with."

Just mow with your toplink removed, same effect.

 

[gcp]

Norm, I'll try it again but mine is indeed one heavy bush hog, tried to lift it a bit without the top link and all it did was tilt. I think the back wheels will have to be adjusted a bit higher but that'll be difficult since all the bolts are rusted to immobility.

 

[normde2001]

I'm totally confused by what you are saying. Weight is not a factor. The only purpose for your toplink is for lifting the rear wheel of the cutter for transport, otherwise it serves no function, only restricts the up/down movement of the cutter in your case. Your rear wheels totally support the rear of the mower and your lower lift arms support the front. Your toplink does nothing. (EDIT), I should add, the toplink does obviously limit the in/out movement of your driveshaft in extreme movements.

 

[gcp]

norm, next weekend I'll try your suggestion, and take pictures of the results, with & without the top link connected while operating the lift. I may be confusing the tilting results I got last weekend with the box blade. Getting senile in my old age

 

[normde2001]

"with & without the top link connected while operating the lift."

We're definitely missing something here. You don't operate the lift while mowing, just "set it and forget it", as the guy on TV says, front about 1" lower than the rear, unless you want to transport the mower.

 

[gcp]

Norm, setting and forgetting was my first instinct but that’s how the land scarring occurred. Again as soon as I get some free time I’ll play with it enough to figure out what the best connect alternative will be.

Right now I am forced to spend my efforts else where. While on travel at Boston Tuesday evening, a punk 19 year old, with a prior, and on probation, broke into my property trailer and barn and lifted 2 rifles, a side by side, and a bunch of tools (powered and not) on his stolen 4-wheeler. Thanks to my astute neighbor, who heard him ride back and forth and therefore knew something was up since I wasn’t supposed to be there, the tracks where followed that led to the kid’s house, located on a county road behind my property. The police were called, the kid was arrested (he's going to jail 15 years minimum), while my wife and best pal recovered most of my property at 1:00am Wednesday ( I’ll check today the final tally). So, now I am forced to spend my long weekend installing pylons in certain trails that can be ridden from the outside, plus replace and re-enforce both trailer doors so they can no longer be pried open. I fabricated a metal plates/padlocks schema last night but the install still remains. I’ll also try to set up an alarm of sort, and whatever else I can think of, that will hopefully help prevent such future activities. You have no idea how helpless one feels knowing they are being robbed while 3K miles away and not able to respond Thank goodness for cellphones!!

 

[gary pate]

Good morning GCP; This might be the perfect time to try using wax to loosen bolts. The thread said to heat bolts just enough to melt the wax. They say the heat draws the wax in just like soldering. Say its better than penetrating oil. Can't hurt to try.

 

[gcp]

Wax hey? Interesting concept!

Thanks Gary

 

[gcp]

Hey guys, where can a buy a couple of clips like the one depicted on the right? As you see the left is brocken and there's another missing from my bush hog I'd like to replace. I've looked all over town for them but can't find any.

Thanks!

 

[normde2001]

Never seen clips like that. What are they used for? If just a standard pin retainer, use a standard clip from HD or most rural hardware stores.

 

[tallyho8]

They look like the clips that hold many u-joints in driveshafts. I bet NAPA has some.

 

[gcp]

tallyho8 is exactly right, these hold the Ujoints in place on my bush hog's drive shaft.

norm, interesting shape isn't it? I've never seen one of those either...

 

[Eddie]

They look like the clips that hold many u-joints in driveshafts. I bet NAPA has some.

That is what I was thinking. Seen a lot of them.

 

[Ductape]

Or.... if you can find a shop the does alot of driveline work. I've seen lots of them..... always holding a u-joint in.

 

[MJPetersen]

I have seen lots of them in holding ujoints in. I always saved the old ones when I put a new ujoint in because invariably when I was working with them, on one of the clips my pliers would slip and the retainer clip would shoot with force to the hidden recesses of the work shop (I probably have a pretty good collection hidden somewhere in my FIL shop.)

Mike in Warsaw

 

[gcp]

Man am I striking out, local NAPA doesn't have it either. If I find a regular c clip I'll go with it.

 

[California]

Stop by a transmission rebuilder shop. I'll bet they have a tray of small parts including a few of those.

 

[normde2001]

Man am I striking out, local NAPA doesn't have it either. If I find a regular c clip I'll go with it.

Valu-Bilt Tractor Parts sells "cross and bearing" kits, and they come with regular "C" clips. A generic package of "C" clips should work.