Mowing BX2350 mowing newbe

[LBrown59]

thanks guys....This info really helped. .

That's what TBN is all about.

 

[megaboz]

megaboz, maybe the BX24 is different but on my BX1850 setting the deck height knob to "Top" keeps the deck all the way up so you can raise and lower the 3 point hitch without moving the deck.

mac1968, before you turn that knob you should raise the deck all the way up. That way the weight is on the 3PH rock shaft and not the knob. Then rotate the knob to whatever setting you want to mow at. When you drop the deck, it will stop at that height every time and you won't be guessing at the height. With the deck lowered to the height you want to mow at, adjust the gauge wheels so they stick down below the deck a 1/4" to 1/2" based on preference.

It is possible that Since my knob doesn't line up with top, but more with 1, that maybe I am lowering it all the way down when I take the deck off. I started thinking about what you said, and you are probably right. I doubt that the two Kubotas are too different.

I end up learning something different everyday it seems like. I just learned not too long ago that there was an extra "float" feature on the FEL when pushed all the way to the right. I don't think float is the correct term for whatever that feature is, but it sure does lift the front of tractor up nice and high to drag that mower out from underneath.

Either way I think he got some of the information he was needing, or at least I hope he did. I

 

[Volfandt]

I've gotten a great finish cut out of my BX23 w/60" MMM going on 4 seasons now. I rank it as good or better than any of my previous dedicated lawn mowers and L&G mowers.
When setup right they perform very well.

The keys to a great finish cut are:
1) Have the MMM setup properly. Makes sure the front to back and side to side measurements are done at the blade tips and not on the frame of the MMM.
It's alittle bit of a pain to set them up as you've got to crawl around but once you get it right it generally stays that way. The owners manual is alittle hard to follow but is right on.
The side to side measurement should be within 1/32" and the front should be approx 1/4" lower than the rear. Surprisingly mower's perform better this way.

2)Proper anti-scalp wheel settings. actually, I'm breakng this rule some as I run mine a notch higher than what Kubota specs. At a notch higher they still provide their function of lifting the mower over bumps and rises ( preventing scalping) but they don't make "unecessary" contact with the turf in turns and straightaways. Since I mow at 3 1/2" the lawn looks pretty good and doesn't show all it's imperfections (which are plenty).

3) Proper air pressure. No matter what psi you run the tires, makes sure that the two fronts are exactly the same as well as the two backs.
I run mine approx 3 psi lower in the rears inorder to cushion the bouncing and this does pretty good. Course I had to compensate for this in the MMM setup but it wasn't too much of an adjustment.

4) Lighten the load. If you want the lawn to not show ruts and tires marks as bad then you need to lighten the tractor & mower up. In finish mowing, the lighter the better. Removing the FEL when finish mowing not only makes the tractor lighter by nearly 400 lbs but it also increases manuverability. That power steering and HST makes a BX VERY nimble when it's configured to give it's lightest and smallest footprint.

5) Good blades. Good sharp high lift blades defionitely out perform dull or bent or std lift blades.

In any case, there has been a few posts over the yrs where some have been dis-satisfied with the finish cut of their BX's but the vast majority of BX owners have posted great results with theirs.
Good luck

 

[LBrown59]

The keys to a great finish cut are:
1) Have the MMM setup properly. Makes sure the front to back and side to side measurements are done at the blade tips and not on the frame of the MMM.
It's alittle bit of a pain to set them up as you've got to crawl around but once you get it right it generally stays that way. The owners manual is alittle hard to follow but is right on.
The side to side measurement should be within 1/32" and the front should be approx 1/4" lower than the rear. Surprisingly mower's perform better this way.
2)Proper anti-scalp wheel settings. actually, I'm breakng this rule some as I run mine a notch higher than what Kubota specs. At a notch higher they still provide their function of lifting the mower over bumps and rises ( preventing scalping) but they don't make "unecessary" contact with the turf in turns and straightaways. Since I mow at 3 1/2" the lawn looks pretty good and doesn't show all it's imperfections (which are plenty).
3) Proper air pressure. No matter what psi you run the tires, makes sure that the two fronts are exactly the same as well as the two backs.I run mine approx 3 psi lower in the rears inorder to cushion the bouncing and this does pretty good. Course I had to compensate for this in the MMM setup but it wasn't too much of an adjustment.
4) Lighten the load. If you want the lawn to not show ruts and tires marks as bad then you need to lighten the tractor & mower up. In finish mowing, the lighter the better. Removing the FEL when finish mowing not only makes the tractor lighter by nearly 400 lbs but it also increases manuverability. That power steering and HST makes a BX VERY nimble when it's configured to give it's lightest and smallest footprint.
5) Good blades. Good sharp high lift blades defionitely out perform dull or bent or std lift blades.
In any case, there has been a few posts over the yrs where some have been dis-satisfied with the finish cut of their BX's but the vast majority of BX owners have posted great results with theirs.
XYZ *power steering and HST makes a BX VERY nimble .
Good luck

xyz*How would you rate/campare that with all wheel steer?

 

[CHDinCT]

It is possible that Since my knob doesn't line up with top, but more with 1, that maybe I am lowering it all the way down when I take the deck off. I started thinking about what you said, and you are probably right. I doubt that the two Kubotas are too different.

I end up learning something different everyday it seems like. I just learned not too long ago that there was an extra "float" feature on the FEL when pushed all the way to the right. I don't think float is the correct term for whatever that feature is, but it sure does lift the front of tractor up nice and high to drag that mower out from underneath.

Either way I think he got some of the information he was needing, or at least I hope he did. I

Your deck adjustment knob may need adjusting. There is a trunion and nut on the top left side of the transmission when viewing it from the back. You can rotate the nut to adjust where Top is when you raise your deck all the way up. When I got my BX, I could not get the knob to rotate all the way to TOP, it would stop at 4+". Read on here or MTF about this adjustment. Sounds like yours is a bit too much the other way. Try playing with the adjustment knob so that when you have the deck all the way up, you can rotate it to TOP but no further.

 

[Volfandt]

xyz*How would you rate/campare that with all wheel steer?

Off hand I'd say that all wheel steer would definitely make it more manuverable but, I don't think that you could add all wheel steer to a BX size tractor. The weight lifting capacity alone of the 3ph would be too much for the mechanism to effectively support, at least affordably.....

 

[offroadaudio]

When racing off-road motorcycles, I wear a kidney belt. It's sort of like a weight lifters belt that goes around your mid-section and keeps things from bouncing around too much. It might help you from feeling so beat up when the cutting is done. You can find them at any motorcycle shop that has dirtbike gear - $20.

'Frank

 

[LBrown59]

2*Mowing with the FEL. There is no reason why you can't leave it on, but my recommendation is to take it off. It does add some weight to the front and can cause it to bounce a little bit more. IMO, it just makes it easier to cut around things and not as easy to clip something important.
Rough ride, well not much you can do about that other
3* fill in the holes.
The tractor should identify all of them for you.
5*Marks? What kind of marks, if you have other than turf tires, it is possible that when making tight turns it could tear up the ground, especially if you have to run 4WD.

2*Leaving it on works fine for me
3*Fel is real handy for that.
Also a slower ride is a smoother ride.
5*My BX 23 has AGs .
I mow in 4wd with both the BH and Fel on it .
Tire markes are no problem.

 

[LBrown59]

1*The deck on the BX is a suspended deck and when I turn sharply on uneven ground the inside gauge wheel will dig in.
2* I also mow a t 3 3/4" to 4" in the heat of the summer and 3 1/2" in the spring and fall.

1*To stop that I set my knob to the 1'' setting and set the guage wheels 1/4 to1/2 inch above the surface.
Set the knob back to 4'' and keep it there for mowing the whole mowing season.
Took about 80 % of the mower rattling and banging away when going across the slag driveway too.
2*I mow at 4 inches high , have been mowing this 2.33 acres for 42 years now at that setting.

 

[LBrown59]

1*With the deck lowered to the height you want to mow at, adjust the gauge wheels so they stick down below the deck a 1/4" to 1/2".

1*If you adj the wheels with the knob set at that position you wil have to reset the wheels every time you want to mow at a different hight.
Also you don't set the wheels below the deck .
The wheels are supposed to be set above the surface/ground.