Snow BX2230 with Curtis Cab and Snow blower: Let it sno

[stevenw]

And finally /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif... the snow removal effort in MA. Do Orange and Green go together??? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Enjoy!

Steve

 

[Poppa]

Steve,


Great job. Sorry I jumped in earlier, I deleted that post to keep yours intact. Like I said, I never really thought about a cab before but after looking at yours I just spent some time daydreaming and scanning the Curtis Web Site. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Again, congratulations on some fine work.


Mike

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Steve,

Thanks for the pictures they were GREAT!!! The electric motor for the chute rotator was just what I needed. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[stevenw]

Folks,

I have had some questions about the wiring for the Electric Rotator.

The switch it called a double pole double throw. The motor has two wires coming out of it. When positive is on one lead and negative is on the other the motor will spin. Reverse the positive and negative and the motor reverses. The switch will have six blades and will look like this:

1 2 3

4 5 6

Here is how you wire the switch. 1 and 6 will be wired to positive battery. 4 and 3 will be wired to negative battery. 2 and 5 will go to the electric motor. When the switch is toggled and held in place to 1 and 4 the motor will go in one direction. When the switch is released it will stay in the middle and the motor will stop. When the switch is toggled and held to 3 and 6 the motor will run in the opposite direction.

Hope this helps... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Steve

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I drilled the hole through it and inserted the stock sheer bolt )</font>

Where did you get the sheer bolt and what size did you use?

 

[Junkman]

He is referring to the stock bolt and nut that holds the crank handle to the chute turning mechanism. The one with the Alan head and Elastic Stop Nut... I wouldn't refer to it as a shear bolt, because it is quite stout for its size.

 

[Av8r3400]

Steven: Super Pictures!!!! Thank you for the info. Could you take a detail picture of how the cab fits around the FEL control? Thanks again!!

 

[stevenw]

Tom,

Junkman is correct. The bolt was the stock bolt that the factory used to connect the rotator crank pole (whatever you want to call it). I assumed it was a sheer bolt but maybe it isn’t. In any event I used it. The motor does not have a lot of torque and will stop on it’s own when it goes all the way to the left or right. I’m sure this isn’t good for it so I try and release the switch before the motor stops. I assume you could relate to this action as the same way the window in your car goes down. If you hold the button the window can’t go any more but hold it long enough frequently enough and I’m sure the motor will be damaged. And that is why I have a spare that can be exchanged in about 15 minutes. 2 nuts and bolts and two wires to splice.

On a different note…I’m looking for suggestions to cover the motor. When snow blowing it gets encrusted in snow…I’m sure this can’t be good for too long. I’m thinking a rubber boot would be nice but haven't found exactly what I’m looking for.

Maybe Junkman Engineering has a solution??? /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

motor picture

 

[Junkman]

Spray the motor with silicone and forget it. I doubt that the snow or ice that forms on the motor will have much of a detrimental effect on the motor. They are designed to work in wet environments, since the inside of the door does get wet when it rains. The only consideration is the grease in the reduction gear should be checked and changed if it is the white lithium grease that turns to "soap" after many years of use. Other than that, when it dies, just toss it and replace it. Ima Short-Circuit, Junkman Engineering, Electromechanical Division. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[stevenw]

Av8r2230,

I will take some better pictures this weekend on how the cab fits around the FEL control.

While I’m taking pictures, does anyone else need to see the detail of anything else?

Steve

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Steve,

Please take some close up pictures of where the heater hoses go through the cab both on the FEL side and cab side. How far apart are the hoses? Also where the hoses connect into the bottom radiator hose. I have to hook my heater up and the pictures so far have been a great help. Any other pictures of how you ran the 2 heater hoses would be great too.

On another note where did you find the black wire clips with the adhesive on the back to hold the wires. I can only find white ones, checked several stores no luck.

Thanks

 

[stevenw]

Tom,

I got the sticky back Tywrap mounts from Home Depot. They work really well. I will get those close up pictures for you this weekend.

Steve

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Steve,

The Ford window motor you used to turn the chute, what door did it come off of on the Explorer ? or it does not matter??

Thanks

 

[ctc1111]

Very Very nice set up. I own a JD 2210 with the FEL and the front blade. I ordered the Curtis hard sided cab, the heater, the console, lights for the rear and front and the flashing beacon. Almost exactly like your set up. I ordered them about a month ago and they were back ordered and were supposed to come in feb 23 but my dealer hasn't called me on that yet. I have a couple concerns about powering all the stuff that will be installed in it. My dealer dosn't seemed to concerned but i am. The dealer said that i'll need the "heavy duty alternator" then said he couldn't find one when i was buying the trator about a month ago. And I have doubts that they even know what to do about powering it all because they're the ones that will be installing it all. I noticed the "30 amp relay" and i was wondering if you could tell me what exactly is this, how dose it work, and if this is what i am going to need to power all this stuff.

Thank you for your consideration
Collin Corso

 

[GerardC]

Awesome set-up! Excellent slide show of the project. I like your work. It's very clean and neat. Gerard

 

[jim_wilson]

Cool installation - I recently acquired a 54" blower for the rear of my BX and although it already has electric chute rotation I want to put some sort of electric powered deflector adjustment on it also.
Does the Ford window motor you use have a very low speed rotation? I was thinking that I might be able to use a motor like you used and basically use it to power a screw jack to adjust the deflector.

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Picked up the Ford window motor on e-bay now need the socket to start the project. My 7/8 sockets do not fit. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif Anyone have a 3/8" S& K 7/8" socket they do not need?? If so, PM me perhaps we can work out a deal?? or if you are not registered send me an e-mail at ihaveakubota@yahoo.com

Thanks

 

[Junkman]

I believe that you will need a 12 point socket, but it won't matter the brand. Head over to Sears and bring the motor with you. Try them all, it might even be that a metric fits better. Not all window motors are created equal.. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Thanks for the info on the 12 point, I was going to hit the auto parts stores in hope in finding something that fits.

 

[stevenw]

Collin,

The 30 amp relay comes within the wiring harness of the overhead console. The wiring is easy. 2 #10’s go to the battery negative and positive terminals, 1 #14 goes to the ignition that applies power when the key is on. It is this wire that triggers the relay to supply 30amps of power to the console. The Radio also has 1 fused #14 that goes to the battery positive so that the clock and radio don’t loose their programming.

As for the alternator…I’m not sure how much everything is drawing but I will tell you that I blew the 30 amp fuse installing everything when I inadvertently shorted the wire. All I had were 25 amp replacements so I put this in. This lasted about 5 hours. One night I was snow blowing for about an hour and I blew the front and rear light circuit breakers (Overheated). When I went to reset them, the 25 amp fuse blew. I picked up 30 amp replacement and haven’t blown anything since. The point I’m trying to make is that I know the stuff I’m running is taking more than 25 amps.

Hope this helps,
Steve