Snow BX2230 with Curtis Cab and Snow blower: Let it sno

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I installed the Tiny Tach on the joystick control. It is right below the throttle and I can see it well.

 

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I mounted the Tiny Tach with angle steel to an existing bolt on the tower. I tilted it slightly towards the driver.

 

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The other wires you see here control my Electric chute rotator. They go to the switch box that contains a single pole double throw switch from Radio Shack.

 

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Another look.

 

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And another.

 

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The cabling routes out towards the blower. Below the hydraulic quick disconnects I put a trailer harness assembly.

 

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In the summer, I will simply unplug it and put a cap on it.

 

[stevenw]

This is a shot of the Electric rotator. I used a 1994 Ford Explorer Electric door motor. Note…when disassembling it from the door, be very careful as it is under spring tension.

 

[stevenw]

I purchased aluminum flat stock from Home Depot. I bent two L pieces in the vice, did a little grinding to fit it under the chute and then drilled holes to match the ones that were currently on the chute bracket and bolted it on. I then matched up two of the three holes on the motor and bolted it on. I found that an old warn out S&K 7/8 sockets fits on the spline. I then took an old 3/8 extension from my socket set cut it to fit and added it to my assembly. I drilled the hole through it and inserted the stock sheer bolt. The assembly works fantastic. The wiring took longer than fabricating this setup. All in all…a 3 hour project. Not including the running around. This is how a person with limited tooling capability gets around situations.

 

[stevenw]

Different view. Note, I ground the flat stock sticking up on an angle so there were no sharp edges. The angle flows with the motor and looks better as well.

 

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Another.

 

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A bracket shot. You can almost read the socket information.

 

[stevenw]

Thanks to Junkman I duplicated his idea for the hydraulic chute deflector…But as Junkman knows, I improved or I should say simplified it. I used a stock 4-inch cylinder and it worked perfect. I didn’t lose any travel in either direction. This is the cylinder part number from The Surplus Center: Part number 9-1649-04 description, 1X4X0.5 DA HYD CYL Price: $63.95 + shipping.

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I bought the brackets from Tractor Smart. These are the part numbers: Deflector Bracket: 70001-00826 and Chute Bracket: 70001-00827. I think they ran around $65.00 for the two of them.
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Just like Junkman, the bracket holes had to be reduced from ¾ to ½ inch. Believe it or not, I used the shank end of some old chrome wheel lugs. The end on the wheel lug was ¾ OD by 1/2 inch ID, so I cut about a ¼ inch from two wheel lugs and they worked perfectly. I couldn’t find the bushings Junkman mentioned so I improvised. Works great.

I bought the ½ inch pins from Home Depot. They didn’t have any shorter ones.

 

[stevenw]

Another shot.

 

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Notice the acorn nuts I used on the bolts…gives it that factory appearance. Junkman concurs.

I got away with the 4” cylinder by adjusting the placement of the brackets. 4 hands were helpful in this task.

 

[stevenw]

One more

 

[stevenw]

You have to route the hydraulic hoses out to the side so as the chute rotates they will not catch on the electric motor.

 

[stevenw]

Turned all the way to the right.

 

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A different Angle.

 

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Turned all the way to the left. As it comes around, the hoses will clear the rotator motor.