BX22 immediately turns off after start
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KeithInSpace
Veteran Member
The first car I ever owned was a 1978 Honda Civic that I built from the ground up. New engine and nearly every part I took off I put on new or rebuilt.
The exact thing happened one time. Turned out to be what's called a "ballast resistor". I have no idea where it would be on the tractor or if it exists, but that's what happened to me. It was located under the engine compartment and looked like a little square block of ceramic with a fuse-ish spring inside and two spade connectors. The little spring was busted. New ballast resistor, ran perfect again. Have no idea what it is or what it does.
The only other thought would be something screw-ball happening with the ignition switch.
The exact thing happened one time. Turned out to be what's called a "ballast resistor". I have no idea where it would be on the tractor or if it exists, but that's what happened to me. It was located under the engine compartment and looked like a little square block of ceramic with a fuse-ish spring inside and two spade connectors. The little spring was busted. New ballast resistor, ran perfect again. Have no idea what it is or what it does.
The only other thought would be something screw-ball happening with the ignition switch.
Dusty
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Diesels don't use ballast resistors. Those are used on gasoline engines to reduce the voltage to the ignition coil after starting the engine. The problem that you have is in the ignition switch. Order a new ignition switch and change it and it should be good to go again. You can also try rapping the switch with a screw driver handle to see if that will resolve the problem temporally.
milkman
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Check all your fuses, I think I remember reading here that a fuse blown in the shut off solenoid circuit will cause the same symptoms, this circuit is bypassed in the start position.
bryn edwards
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pajohn said:
I have the exact same problem, how did you fix it? Ignition switch?
Would appreciate any information.
thanks
Soundguy
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Guys.. get your volt meter out and probe the start and run lugs on those switches and see what you are getting.
Soundguy
Soundguy
cityfarma
Silver Member
As there is no spark in a diesel engine, the only thing that stops the engine is lack of fuel. This suggests that the fuel solenoid is not staying on. You should find that when the key turns to start, there is 12v on the solenoid and the engine starts. When you release the key the 12v should still be on the solenoid or the engine will stop. If the 12v is not present, then it is probable that the ignition switch is faulty as it should give 12 in both start and run positions. It can be bypassed by simply putting a wire from battery to solenoid. The problem that you then have is that you need to disconnect the wire to stop the engine, this may be a safety concern. It will however confirm where the problem lies.
Cityfarma
Cityfarma
Volfandt
Veteran Member
You can test the ign switch buy turning it on and makeing sure your lights and/or turn signals work and that you hear your fuel pump buzzing. If all three of these work I doubt it's the switch as they only work with the switch in the "run" position.
It could be the fuel stop solenoid is bad, the connection to it is very loose or one of your seat safety switches isn't making.
I don't know if the BX22's fuel stop solenoid operates like the BX23 but heres a test proceedure for it.
Good luck
It could be the fuel stop solenoid is bad, the connection to it is very loose or one of your seat safety switches isn't making.
I don't know if the BX22's fuel stop solenoid operates like the BX23 but heres a test proceedure for it.
Good luck
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Bird
Rest in Peace
pajohn said:
Do you mean it happens every time so the tractor is currently not usable, or does it restart and eventually keep running? I hate to admit it, but it reminds me the same problem I had with my 1999 B2710 when I first got it. It started fine cold, but if I shut it down and restarted it after it had warmed up, it would start, immediately die, and might do that 2 or 3 times before it would keep running. I had posted the question on Tractorbynet, and I had talked to my dealer about it.
And then one day, I happened to notice some lights in the instrument panel that came on when you turned the key on, and yet when the engine died after starting, those lights were not on. Talk about feeling like an idiot.
The ignition switch spring was so strong that if I turned the key loose too quickly the spring would snap it all the way back and turn off. The solution was to just not let my fingers slip off the key when the engine started, but to release the key more gently.
DiezNutz
Veteran Member
Tom_H
Veteran Member
If it's instant shutoff upon releasing key, I'd guess fuel solenoid or switch kickback as described by Bird.
If it fires another rev or two after that, and then dies, I'd check fuel filters. My VW diesel Rabbit pickup had this problem once. After shutdown, enough fuel seeped back in for a restart. As soon as the engine fired for a few revs, the pump coundn't draw fuel through the clogged filter fast enough and it would stall. Less likely, though possible, is an air filter so badly clogged that not enough air is being drawn in through the intake valves. In either of these cases, I'd expect to hear knocking and to feel a strain on the entire crankshaft system.
This is nothing new to most people on this site, but for those not familiar with diesel engines, a diesel doesn't have an "ignition" system, only a "starter" system. The compression stroke builds a much higher compression ratio than a gasoline engine. Following the Ideal Gas Law, PV = NKT, the rapid high compression builds so much heat that when the fuel is injected, the high temp of the compressed air causes instant oxidation with no spark or spark plug necessary to "ignite" the fuel and oxygen. Glow plugs (and block heater in winter), provide the extra heat needed when the block is cold. The starter turns the entire crankshaft, pistons, rods, for the first couple of revs until the first couple of explosions occur. After the key is released, the starter disengages and the inertia of the crankshaft, and pressure from expanding gasses in the other cylinders, is enough to drive each succeeding compression stroke through subsequent injection and burn.
If it fires another rev or two after that, and then dies, I'd check fuel filters. My VW diesel Rabbit pickup had this problem once. After shutdown, enough fuel seeped back in for a restart. As soon as the engine fired for a few revs, the pump coundn't draw fuel through the clogged filter fast enough and it would stall. Less likely, though possible, is an air filter so badly clogged that not enough air is being drawn in through the intake valves. In either of these cases, I'd expect to hear knocking and to feel a strain on the entire crankshaft system.
This is nothing new to most people on this site, but for those not familiar with diesel engines, a diesel doesn't have an "ignition" system, only a "starter" system. The compression stroke builds a much higher compression ratio than a gasoline engine. Following the Ideal Gas Law, PV = NKT, the rapid high compression builds so much heat that when the fuel is injected, the high temp of the compressed air causes instant oxidation with no spark or spark plug necessary to "ignite" the fuel and oxygen. Glow plugs (and block heater in winter), provide the extra heat needed when the block is cold. The starter turns the entire crankshaft, pistons, rods, for the first couple of revs until the first couple of explosions occur. After the key is released, the starter disengages and the inertia of the crankshaft, and pressure from expanding gasses in the other cylinders, is enough to drive each succeeding compression stroke through subsequent injection and burn.
WaynePeterson
New member
My BX22 did exactly the same thing yesterday evening.
Okay, I worked the little guy hard all weekend (moved mulch and gravel, cut a short piece of road into the uncleared part of the property and spent most of Saturday doing that and starting the long-neglected clearing, dropped the FEL and BH yesterday, remounted the MMM and started mowing).
After about 45 minutes of mowing yesterday evening, it cut out completely. Repeated attempts to restart it were fruitless, and the little fellow is still sitting in the middle of one section of lawn, forlorn, in full view from the road, amusing the neighbors. (One has already knocked on the door, wanting to talk about the breakdown. Downside of working from home.)
Diagnostics: (turned here second when the Kubota shop manual was completely silent on the issue).
Both fuel filters are new, so is the air filter.
Panel lights are on in the "on" position.
It will start and run only so long as I keep the key in the "start" position.
Conclusion: fuel and air aren't the problem.
Solenoid fuse (20A yellow) was blown.
Installed another one, it blew.
Sounds like the solenoid is at fault rather than the main switch. Heading to the dealer to get one.
My question: Where the heck is the solenoid mounted?
Under the seat?
Engine compartment?
Electrical panel in front of my knees, near the battery?
Please just tell me is ISN'T mounted underneath, near the second fuel filter.
Thanks very much for the help.
Okay, I worked the little guy hard all weekend (moved mulch and gravel, cut a short piece of road into the uncleared part of the property and spent most of Saturday doing that and starting the long-neglected clearing, dropped the FEL and BH yesterday, remounted the MMM and started mowing).
After about 45 minutes of mowing yesterday evening, it cut out completely. Repeated attempts to restart it were fruitless, and the little fellow is still sitting in the middle of one section of lawn, forlorn, in full view from the road, amusing the neighbors. (One has already knocked on the door, wanting to talk about the breakdown. Downside of working from home.)
Diagnostics: (turned here second when the Kubota shop manual was completely silent on the issue).
Both fuel filters are new, so is the air filter.
Panel lights are on in the "on" position.
It will start and run only so long as I keep the key in the "start" position.
Conclusion: fuel and air aren't the problem.
Solenoid fuse (20A yellow) was blown.
Installed another one, it blew.
Sounds like the solenoid is at fault rather than the main switch. Heading to the dealer to get one.
My question: Where the heck is the solenoid mounted?
Under the seat?
Engine compartment?
Electrical panel in front of my knees, near the battery?
Please just tell me is ISN'T mounted underneath, near the second fuel filter.
Thanks very much for the help.
Last edited:
WaynePeterson
New member
::: sigh :::
"D'oh!" (Channeling Homer Simpson here today).
The solenoid is, of course, mounted to the injector pump. Where the heck else would it be?
"D'oh!" (Channeling Homer Simpson here today).
The solenoid is, of course, mounted to the injector pump. Where the heck else would it be?
hazmat
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injector pump is on the engine. follow the fuel line from the filter towards the engine. stop before you get to the dohicky that splits off into 3 lines going to the cylinders. between the filter & the dohicky will be the solenoid.
Volfandt
Veteran Member
WaynePeterson, did you follow the fuel shutoff solenoid troubleshooting schematic I posted in post #8?
The reason I ask is that it could be something else blowing the fuse. You got anything connected to that "hot" wire under the seat?
You may even unplug the solenoid, replace the fuse and see if ti blows again.
In any case good luck.
The reason I ask is that it could be something else blowing the fuse. You got anything connected to that "hot" wire under the seat?
You may even unplug the solenoid, replace the fuse and see if ti blows again.
In any case good luck.
rdsaustintx
Veteran Member
Volfandt said:
+1 Good advice.
WaynePeterson
New member
Gentlemen,
Thanks for the good counsel. I replaced the solenoid late yesterday evening, installed a new 20A fuse, and the tractor fired right up.
The old / bad solenoid appeared to have worn around the plunger. No wonder ... given that it is going to get a lot of abuse from engine heat. I was surprised that it would fail at 220 hours until I saw how it was mounted and operates. I understand that in the new models it isn't mounted in the same fashion.
So, thanks very much to all. The little 'bota rides again.
Wayne
Thanks for the good counsel. I replaced the solenoid late yesterday evening, installed a new 20A fuse, and the tractor fired right up.
The old / bad solenoid appeared to have worn around the plunger. No wonder ... given that it is going to get a lot of abuse from engine heat. I was surprised that it would fail at 220 hours until I saw how it was mounted and operates. I understand that in the new models it isn't mounted in the same fashion.
So, thanks very much to all. The little 'bota rides again.
Wayne
