Oil & Fuel BX Fuel Filter Change Lessons Learned

[dragoneggs]

I don't understand why a BX would need 2 filters when my B26 only requires one.

I am wondering the same. The question in my mind is why does the fuel pump on the BX need the filter in front of it? I wonder if the B series fuel pump is different? Maybe the BX fuel pump is more susceptible to clogging?

 

[David_Kb7uns]

The electric fuel pumps do not work well with crap in the check valves or dirt keeping the slug in the pump from moving. the diaphragm lift pumps are a little more forgiving.


David

 

[dragoneggs]

The electric fuel pumps do not work well with crap in the check valves or dirt keeping the slug in the pump from moving. the diaphragm lift pumps are a little more forgiving.


David

Thanks David. I wonder if that is indeed the difference between the pumps on the B vs BX?

 

[Leejohn]

Where is the fuel pump at on the B's?

 

[Tractor Seabee]

My dealer shop informed me that the filter ahead of the engine injector pump is strictly to protect that vulnerable close tolerance element in case something gets through the first filter and/or the booster pump comes apart. I was able to replace the filter under the cowling w/o removing it, but it was difficult enough that I moved it down under with the first filter. Even the hoses were the right length when reversed. I use steel body filters instead of the OEM plastic ones (more insurance from damage). I also installed a valve ahead of the first filter to eliminate trying to clamp the hose off. If I ever leave the tractor setting out somewhere I can turn off the valve and then defy someone to drive it off as the key is pretty easy to circumvent and they are all the same combination. I have never found debris in the second filter even when clogging of the first one stalls the engine. I am looking for a spin off cartridge type that will fit in the space down under, but it is not a priority. I do not have under body armor yet. Thinking on something easy to remove as I now have the first chewed up fan to replace.

Ron

 

[dragoneggs]

My dealer shop informed me that the filter ahead of the engine injector pump is strictly to protect that vulnerable close tolerance element in case something gets through the first filter and/or the booster pump comes apart. I was able to replace the filter under the cowling w/o removing it, but it was difficult enough that I moved it down under with the first filter. Even the hoses were the right length when reversed. I use steel body filters instead of the OEM plastic ones (more insurance from damage). I also installed a valve ahead of the first filter to eliminate trying to clamp the hose off. If I ever leave the tractor setting out somewhere I can turn off the valve and then defy someone to drive it off as the key is pretty easy to circumvent and they are all the same combination. I have never found debris in the second filter even when clogging of the first one stalls the engine. I am looking for a spin off cartridge type that will fit in the space down under, but it is not a priority. I do not have under body armor yet. Thinking on something easy to remove as I now have the first chewed up fan to replace.

Ron

Hi Ron! Yeah, when I replaced the filters, the first was pretty dirty... causing the loss of power. The second was clean. Replaced it anyways. On the ignition keys, I was told by our dealer that they are all the same. I don't know if that means for all BX's or all Kubotas!

 

[David_Kb7uns]

Where is the fuel pump at on the B's?

Should be similar to the D1105 on my RTV-1100 with a engine driven diaphragm pump on side of block. The two Super Minis I have a D902 and D782 on the BX2230 and the G2160 do not have engine driven pumps and use electric or electronic as they were called when they came out.

David

 

[sandyc]

I really appreciate the "B" filter on my 3350 and my previous 2620 as they have a fuel shut off that kicks in when you remove the bowl. The only real pain is changing out the filter element as it is rather a tight fit. The two "O" rings that you need should be included with the filter but they are not. Must be a profit center for the dealers/Kubota!

 

[dsmiley]

I really appreciate the "B" filter on my 3350 and my previous 2620 as they have a fuel shut off that kicks in when you remove the bowl. The only real pain is changing out the filter element as it is rather a tight fit. The two "O" rings that you need should be included with the filter but they are not. Must be a profit center for the dealers/Kubota!

Why can't you use the old o-rings?

 

[David_Kb7uns]

I have put that B series filter on the RTV, BX and the G, replacing the inline filter.

You can reuse the O rings if they are in good shape but you need to have a set around as the inner one is easy to loose.

David

 

[Nevadblue]

Yes, it is an old thread, but a valuable one. I have to say THANKS! for the info in it. My BX24 was stumbling and wouldn't rev. I found this thread on a search and it saved me a bunch of trouble. I only replaced the primary filter, but that was the culprit. I also only had to go under the tractor one time because I took a box with everything recommended for a filter change in it. The filter bolt was VERY tight. I did use a large hemostat clamp and a small vise grip to pinch the hoses. I tore off a piece of the cardboard box and wrapped it around the hose that the vise grip clamped onto. Oh, the tractor was sitting in the snow, so I found one of those insulated, foil faced windshield sunshade things and used it as a 'creeper' on the snow. Perfect.
Thanks again.

 

[Nevadblue]

Update and tip. The tractor ran for about 15 minutes and stumbled again. Grrr... I think I got a slug of water in the fuel.
So, today I replaced the secondary filter. Here's the tip...

The engine shroud is held on by two knobs in the front and slots in the back. I did NOT want to remove the shroud and guard in the snow bank. So, think... I removed the knob on the left side and bowed the shroud out and pushed it forward to get it out of the slots under the console. I did remove the shroud over the battery just to make it easier to see what I was doing. The plastic is flexible enough, even at 25 degrees F to readily move out of the way. This gave me plenty of room to work.

The tractor ran about 10 minutes and bogged again. Grrrr... I took my jacket off, slid under on my windshield 'creeper' and replaced the primary AGAIN. I was able to do the work I needed this time, moved a bunch of snow and worked for over three hours. Hopefully this is done now. I will buy more spare filters when we are in town this week. I hope the tip on the shroud helps someone else who is stuck replacing the secondary filter in the cold.

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

Blue, you need to read my sad tale of woe. Don't worry, there's a happy ending to the story, and a lesson to be learned.

 

[Nevadblue]

Well, knock wood... The little tractor seems to be well again. I got a bunch of chemicals for it and spare filters while I was in town. I did add a glug of Diesel 911 when I got home, but nothing else. I hope my Mr. Filter gets here before I have to add fuel. It was supposed to be delivered today, but it hasn't arrived yet.
I still want to put in a primary filter with water trap. One of these days.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

Be careful, some fuel additives contain dispersants and will allow water to go through water blocking filters and traps.

David

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

Be careful, some fuel additives contain dispersants and will allow water to go through water blocking filters and traps.

David

Yes, I was just reading the flyer that came with my new Racor 120, and learned about that. I will be carefully checking out any additives to make sure they do NOT emulsify the water.

 

[Nevadblue]

Thanks for the tips. I got the Mr Funnel and it says to add additives after the fuel is in the tank.

 

[CADplans]

Thanks for the tips. I got the Mr Funnel and it says to add additives after the fuel is in the tank.

I just used Mr Funnel in the cold for the first time. ( About 40 degrees)
I was using fuel that was purchased a few weeks ago at a high volume truck stop,,
I believe the fuel was clean.

After about 4 gallons, the flow REALLY slowed down,, then after another gallon,,,
IT STOPPED!

I rubbed a spot on the filter, flow started,,,

I wonder if the fuel was "gelled"??

I did not see anything,, no water in the bottom of the funnel,,
Hmmmmm,,,,,,,,,

In the previous half dozen uses,, this had not happened,,,

What is the correct procedure to clean Mr Funnel?

 

[Nevadblue]

My guess is YES, gelled fuel. The Mr Funnel instructions say not to touch the screen by the way. Probably should just shake the crap out of it and take it inside to warm up. NO TOCAR! Grin...

The instructions say to turn the funnel upside down and 'dump' it.

 

[Nevadblue]

Lesson not yet learned... The tractor quit again yesterday. So, today (about 18 degrees out there) I drained the tank and replaced the primary filter AGAIN. You guys won't believe this... there was a SPIDER in it. Sigh... must be contagious. I blew out the line to the tank... yuck, diesel is icky, but not as bad as gasoline. Ran some Diesel Heat through the line and replaced the filter. Then my new Mr Funnel removed the ICE and wax from the brand new 5 gallons of 'winter diesel' from the filling station. GRRR... No fuel will go in my rigs from now on without going through the Mr Funnel.
I was able to move snow for as long as I could stand being out there. I seriously hope this is fixed.
I did order a Kubota water/dirt filter unit with spin on housing. It WILL fit under the rig come spring.