Bush hog

[Joe Batt]

The chain was probably attached to the 3 point frame work, so that you can lift the mower. The wheel in the back should really only touch the ground occasionally, though before I bought a finish mower I would regularly run the wheel on the ground to cut the grass extra short.

New, the mower probably had a framework that attacked those pieces of angle on the deck to the 3 point framework. Mine broke as well, and I replaced it with chain, but my chain goes from the angle pieces to the 3 point, not from the back like that.

Not a great picture, but hopefully you get the idea:

 

[TerryR]

The chain was probably attached to the 3 point frame work, so that you can lift the mower. The wheel in the back should really only touch the ground occasionally, though before I bought a finish mower I would regularly run the wheel on the ground to cut the grass extra short.

New, the mower probably had a framework that attacked those pieces of angle on the deck to the 3 point framework. Mine broke as well, and I replaced it with chain, but my chain goes from the angle pieces to the 3 point, not from the back like that.

The photo in the original post looks very much like the Bush Hog brand mower I purchased new 28 years ago. It came from the factory with a chain like that shown in the photo. It was attached to the top of the 3 point frame, but I've sold the unit and can't recall exactly how it was attached there. I think it was to a bolt in the hole that's visible in the photo just below the attachment for the upper link.

Why do you say the wheel show only touch the ground occasionally? I always set it to run on the ground so it could follow the rolling terrain we have.

 

[airbiscuit]

 

[Joe Batt]

Why do you say the wheel show only touch the ground occasionally? I always set it to run on the ground so it could follow the rolling terrain we have.

I was told that when I bought it. The dealer was trying to stress that it is for taller rough cut, not for a lawn.

 

[TerryR]

I was told that when I bought it. The dealer was trying to stress that it is for taller rough cut, not for a lawn.

OK. Seems strange to me. You are supposed to control the height of the cut with the height of the 3-point in front and the height of the rear wheel. That's why they are adjustable.

 

[big bubba]

OP: glad the gears box is functional. may be worth checking to see the vent on the gearbox fill plug is working ok. glad it worked out for you

 

[Gord Baker]

I would worry more about the gearbox than the blades. Before I used it, I would try to tighten the blades but also, change the gearbox oil.

The blades are meant to spin freely as previously explained. Check to be sure the spring loaded clutch is not Stuck. Count number of threads visible on each bolt if you take it apart.

 

[Gord Baker]

Good morning, is it normal that these blades be loose?
I know nothing about this, I need one and it’s been sitting
The bolt/ nut is tight, just sloppy from wear.
Not stupid loose in my uneducated opinion but definitely wobbly.
Someone has just abused this thing
Thanks

Before you run it, carefully check the PTO shaft that may have zerk fittings in the Universal. Be careful that it does not hit the housing when you raise it. Run it LEVEL, not nose down.

 

[John_Mc]

Run it LEVEL, not nose down.

The manual with my old Woods BB60 say to set it up for 1/2" to 3/4" nose down. It seemed odd to me when I first read that, since finish mowers are usually set up level or slightly nose high, so I asked my dealer about it. He said running nose down tends to work better in heavy cutting conditions, since the blades tend to cut the stems only once, at the front of the deck. Running level or nose high means the blades come around for a second cut at the rear of the cutter. Running nose down lets you mow a bit faster, since it takes less HP. It also allows the blades some time to recover and reposition if they get swung back from hitting tough stems or rocks. He did say that in grassy situations, you might get a slightly better looking cut with the nose slightly high - IF you have the HP to keep the blade speed up.

I do not that the manual also says to set up slightly nose high for "shredding". It does not say how much higher, just says to experiment for best results in different conditions. The manual doesn't define what they mean by shredding.

 

[1930]

OP: glad the gears box is functional. may be worth checking to see the vent on the gearbox fill plug is working ok. glad it worked out for you

I haven’t seen a vent, I’ll have to look again this morning
Thanks

 

[1930]

The manual with my old Woods BB60 say to set it up for 1/2" to 3/4" nose down. It seemed odd to me when I first read that, since finish mowers are usually set up level or slightly nose high, so I asked my dealer about it. He said running nose down tends to work better in heavy cutting conditions, since the blades tend to cut the stems only once, at the front of the deck. Running level or nose high means the blades come around for a second cut at the rear of the cutter. Running nose down lets you mow a bit faster, since it takes less HP. It also allows the blades some time to recover and reposition if they get swung back from hitting tough stems or rocks. He did say that in grassy situations, you might get a slightly better looking cut with the nose slightly high - IF you have the HP to keep the blade speed up.

I do not that the manual also says to set up slightly nose high for "shredding". It does not say how much higher, just says to experiment for best results in different conditions. The manual doesn't define what they mean by shredding.

Unfortunately my old B6100 slowly leaks down so it’s tough to maintain any height for very long.
I’m pretty sure that the body that you see now was all made by previous owner and it appears he included skids on n the front to just be dragged along.
The hog came with the tractor but the tractor really isn’t powerful enough to leave me comfortable in thinking that I’m not stressing it by using the bush hog.
I’m gonna be careful if I do use it in the future
I have a bigger tractor but it has a backhoe on the rear that I use often

 

[airbiscuit]

Bolt some guide wheels on it

 

[1930]

Bolt some guide wheels on it

View attachment 3285445

This was my plan but your picture really put it in perspective

 

[airbiscuit]

Those are guide wheels off a New Holland bale pick up. The black mounting bracket is angle iron. The yellow is the adjustable mounting bar from the baler .

I now have a bigger tractor and a 5' rough cut mower. I use it on trails and rough ground. I bolt a 6" fixed castor wheel from Harbor Freight (plus a spacer board) on the underside of the deck (front corners) to keep the skids from gouging. They last about 5 years.

 

[TerryR]

I’m pretty sure that the body that you see now was all made by previous owner and it appears he included skids on n the front to just be dragged along.

You're talking about the cutter pictured in your first post in this thread? It's a standard Bush Hog SQ from late 1990's. Here's a photo of the one I sold a few years back:

The skids are for when it mistakenly hits the ground, to keep it from digging in too deeply. It's not designed to run on them.

In response to your earlier question, you can see how the chain is supposed to be attached at the top of the 3-point yoke. The top link in this photo is set too short, making the chain tighter than it should be in normal usage. This is a photo I took when I put it up for sale and I had it tight so I could raise it up to take a photo of the under side.

 

[airbiscuit]

His 3pt leaks down, so wheels would help keep the skids from gouging.

 

[TerryR]

I've seen suggestions for adding chains to maintain a given height of the 3-point lower arms. Could that be an alternative solution?

 

[1930]

Those are guide wheels off a New Holland bale pick up. The black mounting bracket is angle iron. The yellow is the adjustable mounting bar from the baler .

I now have a bigger tractor and a 5' rough cut mower. I use it on trails and rough ground. I bolt a 6" fixed castor wheel from Harbor Freight (plus a spacer board) on the underside of the deck (front corners) to keep the skids from gouging. They last about 5 years.

View attachment 3285582

Thanks for that, great idea

You're talking about the cutter pictured in your first post in this thread? It's a standard Bush Hog SQ from late 1990's. Here's a photo of the one I sold a few years back:

View attachment 3285586

The skids are for when it mistakenly hits the ground, to keep it from digging in too deeply. It's not designed to run on them.

In response to your earlier question, you can see how the chain is supposed to be attached at the top of the 3-point yoke. The top link in this photo is set too short, making the chain tighter than it should be in normal usage. This is a photo I took when I put it up for sale and I had it tight so I could raise it up to take a photo of the under side.

Thanks for the information

 

[RayIN]

I've seen suggestions for adding chains to maintain a given height of the 3-point lower arms. Could that be an alternative solution?

That is about the only option when running a bush hog with a H. Ferguson 20 or 30. The chains work great, once you figure out what the length must be.

 

[6string]

Good morning, is it normal that these blades be loose?
I know nothing about this, I need one and it’s been sitting
The bolt/ nut is tight, just sloppy from wear.
Not stupid loose in my uneducated opinion but definitely wobbly.
Someone has just abused this thing
Thanks

I would not give over $100 for it. I see a lot of pitting and pinhole rust. May be other problems in the gearbox. Is the PTO shaft missing?