Building our retirement home

[KiotiKowboy]

No builder here, but the concern being spread, not support, steel rods with turnbuckles would resist spreading better than a beam. While you might not expect it to look nice, they have been used in attractive post and beam lodges and of course in sailing applications.

You can get stainless steel, and can use threaded rods the whole distance or switch to swaged cable.

Our existing house has 3 support posts on the porch. Even so, the spread was causing mortar to crack and a cable was added. This solved the problem but resulted in a nice perch for birds to "do their business" on the porch I suspect, if we see this issue in the new house, we will have to go this route again.

 

[GPintheMitten]

I didn't think about the birds.

 

[KiotiKowboy]

As things move along, I'm becoming more comfortable that we'll be able to get this thing weather tight before winter hits.

The roof on both ends of the house proceeded while we were waiting on great room trusses. At this point, I realized we wound up with a much larger attic space than we had expected. The clearance is over 9' in the center, providing approximately 15' x 40' of usable space. Like everything else, we're scratching our heads over what to do ... squeeze in a staircase and convert a portion of that area into an office - or not. It would require $$replacing$$ an amount of 2x6 with 2x12 to support the floor.

View attachment 446333

 

[GPintheMitten]

Maybe you could just add another set of 2x6 s on top of the current 2x6 s. You ll also have to consider proper way to insulate in the rafters where the office would be, taking into consideration vapor and ventilation.

 

[SirReal63]

I would convert it now while it easy to do, instead of later when it will become a much more expensive proposition. Space is only usable if it is accessible, it will also add value to the house.

We have the same happy accident going on now. The upstairs portion of my Barndo build will be 1500 sq ft of usable space. We have already begun plans on how best to utilize it.

 

[EddieWalker]

Pretty cheap and easy to convert it to livable space now if that's what you want. Just remember that more square footage is going to cost more to heat and cool. Are you taxes based on square footage? Do you need it for anything? Who is going to maintain it and keep it clean? In my experience, as we get older, most people want a smaller, easier to take care of home.

My first thought was where are you putting your mechanicals? A big, easy to get to space for the AC and Water Heater, or Water Heaters is always a nice thing to have instead of using up quality floor space downstairs.

 

[KubotainNH]

Do you really need/want more living space to keep clean and maintain? How about storage space? I like the idea of HVAC being out of the way up there but not so much for items with water in them. Did you mention how the house will be heated and cooled?

 

[KiotiKowboy]

HVAC will be in the attic, originally adjacent to pull-down stairs but at least one set of pull-downs will disappear if we develop the upstairs. I do have a mechanical room that will house one of the 2 water heaters, breaker box and water filtration/purification gear.

As to the "how" ... the home is total electric. Not my preference but that's just how it is. We'll have a wood-burning fireplace in the great room.

When we get closer to the end of the build, we'll look into either a propane fed generator or - my preference - a solar generator.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I'd have a load bearing wall down the middle of the bottom floor, tear out all the ceiling joists that look like they are floating on the interior walls, and put some 2x10's across that will serve as ceiling joists and flooring for the attic. Even if only attic, I'd be using that space since you raftered it. It will also help with keeping the rafters from spreading, those collar ties seem to be small and high on the rafters.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

OK ... looking for some thoughts ....

We'll have 2 large covered decks/porches on this new house. They will be approximately 28' wide, with one being 16' in depth and the other at 18'.

The same trusses will be used from the front porch, through the great room and to the end of the rear porch. These are not scissor trusses, instead, they will have parallel 2x6 top/bottom with some type of web bracing. The height of these is approximately 24".

Across the great room, with the trusses sitting on the room walls, there are no concerns. However, as we take these beyond the house onto the porches, there is concern they will spread over time. The spreading problem could easily be solved with a more traditional truss, having a lower cross beam. We do not want this. Our intent is to have these porches supported by only 2 posts, with no crossing beams.

So far, we've discussed two options to address the problem. 1. Adding plywood plating to all the porch trusses. 2. Using very heavy steel posts with top cradles and burying them in about 5 feet of concrete before we pour the porches. We did consider putting a crossing beam between the corner posts but, at 28', it is likely the beam would suffer under its own weight - especially with any wind.

I intend to use both #1 and #2 above, and hope for the best If "you" have any other ideas that are cost-effective ... please share.

not sure I understand what you are trying to do. Are these flat 24" high ceiling joist trusses that will cantilever out 18' / 16' on the ends? Or are these roof trusses? In either case, on the porches, don't see where you won't have a support beam either under them, or on the end of them to support the ceiling.