Building a 3pt sprayer, any thoughts

[Hookblock]

I started to make a 3pt sprayer this weekend. I guess I was looking for some input or suggestions. First use will be weed and brush control, second would be fertilizer. Thanks

 

[art]

On most that I've seen they mount the tank the other way keeping the weight closer to the tractor. There are a lot of questions what type of sprays? What are your thoughts on the pump? Control valve? What about the boom width needed and nozzles.

 

[firemanpat2910]

I agree that thing is way too far from the tractor. Between the way its mounted and your I match( or whatever QH) that puts alot of weight way back. At the least you need plenty of front ballast.

 

[wushaw]

They also make the "J" bands for them so you can strap the tank down with a metal band.

 

[Hookblock]

Thanks for the input. Some thoughts on why I went the way I did. When I mounted the tank the other way the hoses seemed like they stuck out to far. I will have to work around a lot of trees and heavy brush. With the nozzle and the electric pump up by the 3pt I could watch and protect them better. And weight wise I didn't think it would weigh more than 6' brush mower (50 gal about 400 lbs ?) And I wanted to try something different. For spraying weeds and brush I was thinking round up, with a single nozzle setup like in northern tool. And I was looking for some more info on fertilizer, liquid verses solid. Again thanks.

 

[Renovator]

I would use aPTO roller pump and boomless nozzels. I would also make it so you can use a spray gun. You will need a bypass valve if you use a roller pump. If you are close to SE WI pm me and I can help set it up.
Renovator

 

[VinnieNC]

I "re-built" one a few years ago. First, I would use beefier straps to hold that tank to the frame; when its full, its mighty heavy and could slide around when the solution sloshes. You might also consider putting some sort of slide stops in place around the bottom edge to keep it in place. I would install a valve immediately at the output so that you could turn off the flow in the event of a leak in the system. I have sprung leaks and found this to be helpful to save that expensive solution from running out on the ground when you have a leak. Of course, install a filter after the valve and before the pump. I used a 6 roller pump, a little big for a 55 gallon tank, but plenty of extra pumping capacity. When you plumb the pump, use Cam Lock style couplers and arrange them so they can only be hooked up to the tank one way, ie outlet and inlet cannot be hooked up backwards. The cam locks connectors will allow you to easily remove the pump from the system and store it inside, out of the weather. Mine has a male on one side and a female on the other so I connect them together for storage to keep out the rodents and dirt.

Make yourself a J tube out of copper or whatever you have around to connect the garden hose to for filling up the tank. The end of a garden hose alone doesn't stay in the tank well when you are filling up. A J tube will hook onto the filler hole and hold itself there while you are filling the tank. I use the J hose from an old washing machine drain line. It fits perfectly over the end of the garden hose and hooks onto the filler hole great.

When you mount the regulator/ direction valve, be sure to put it high and forward enough that you can comfortably reach it from the seat. Mine is about 4 inches too far back so I have to stretch to reach it from the seat, kinda agravating.

I don't know anything about spraying fertilizers or single nozzles. I have a boom set-up.

Also, I put a cam lock connection at the boom so I can dissconnect the boom and hook up a spray gun for spraying trees.

Just my 0.02

Have fun.

-Vinnie

 

[tree grower]

For plumbing the sprayer, get a catalog from Spraying Systems, Inc. They make Teejet parts and fittings, and the catalog has some good schematics of pump, valve, booms, nozzles, etc. I agree with the recommendation that you turn the tank 90*. Water weighs 8 lbs per gallon which must be countered with a big tractor in front of it, or just weight.

 

[JRP]

Vinnie had a lot of good suggestions.

The tanks are usually mounted 90 degrees from the way you oriented yours so the weight center of gravity is closer to the tractor.

I made a J tube like Vinnie using 1/2" copper tubing and a full ported ball valve. Make the hose and J big so it fills quicker. I also soldered a 3/4" threaded fitting on the end and added a camlock fitting that matches the pumps. After the spraying is done I connect the pump to the J tube and pressure flush out the pump. No need to run the tractor.

Pour some motor oil in the female hole then stuff the male into the female (camlock fitting) and it keeps the pumper well lubricated. Most sprays are very corrosive. Store the pump clean and lubricated.

Here is the boom I made