Bucket Drilling Question

[Scrounger]

I've drilled thru the side of my bucket for digging teeth, but not I need to drill thru the cutting edge. THis stuff must be some real special steel since a Craftsman Cobalt drill bit will start the hole but I can't get it thru. The bit just stalls. I kept the bit lubed while drilling but I'm at a loss.

Any tips? I dont have a torch to burn a hole and I wanted it to be alot clear than burning a hole anyway.

 

[RonR]

I drilled some 3/8" holes in mine with regular steel bit, but it took a lot of pressure and a LONG time.

Ron

 

[Scrounger]

I'm not sure how I could put any more pressure on it than I have already. I might take the bucket off so I can basically sit on the drill.

After the snow that is coming tonight and tomorrow however. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Code54]

Try using some cutting oil (real cutting oil not WD40 or motor oil) it will help a ton.
Good luck

 

[simonmeridew]

I drilled quite a large hole in my bucket this Fall so that I could put a trailer ball on the front of the bucket to move my boat around. I started with a very small drill bit, maybe eighth inch diameter, it drilled easily right through as I recall. Then I went to a larger drill bit, I think quarter inch, then three eighths, up to half inch, all just regular high speed steel. I didn't have anything larger, and the ball shank was five eighths. I have a titanium nitrided carbide flame shaped bur with a quarter inch shank, which I mounted in my air die grinder, and within a minute, literally, I had enlarged the hole to fit the shank on the ball. I remember thinking at the time that the edge steel was going to be quite hard but it was not any different to drill through.
The key I think is to start with a small bit and move up incrementally.
Simonmeridew

 

[KennyV]

When you are drilling steel use turpentine to ‘lube’ your bit, if it’s sharp you will have no problem cutting steel. KennyV.

 

[HODAK]

As others have pointed out, start small and work your way up. 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, etc. This can make a big difference.

 

[PILOON]

Often I make a loop around , say a loader arm, with rope and then use a 2x4 as a lever to apply some pressure.
Beats sitting or pushing on the drill.
Also I have a slow turning hole hog that spins about 150 RPM.
With this set up I can drill 1" from the smallest pilot hole using proper lubes.
Drill chucks have 3 holes. Tighten using all 3 holes to prevent slippage helps.

 

[Scrounger]

Pilot hole, lots of cutting oil and a 1/2" bit in 1/2" drill did the trick. That is one tough bucket.

Thanks for the pointers everyone.

 

[sflranchok]

Sorry about my lack of understanding, but why do you drill through a bucket?

 

[Scrounger]

I was mounting a plastic strip under the bucket to protect my driveway and sidewalks. It was from fallline.com and its been a killer product so far.

 

[jmc]

Just a few thoughts-

The cutting edge needs to be annealed to drill like normal steel. Can you do a quick heating of the area you want to drill in order to keep the heat from softening too large an area?

Also, my only attempt at using cobalt drills in hand held steel drilling resulted in the edges of the drill chipping. The cobalt drills are more brittle than regular high speed steel and probably need to be used in a drill press. Check your drill bit for sharpness.

I'm a firm believer in split point drills for hand held drilling. In a conventional drill, usually a 118 degree point, the two cutting edges do not go all the way to center. The web of the drill (end area between the flutes) does not actually cut but "wallows" a hole instead, under high pressure. That's why (I think) step drilling works well. Its easier to get high pressure at the web of the small pilot drill, then subsequent larger drills only have to remove material where they have a true cutting edge.

With a split point drill, usually a 135 degree point, the cutting edges extend virtually to center, eliminating that dead zone. Its remarkable how much faster they cut in hand held drilling of steel.

John

 

[accordionman]

HELLO TO ALL,
i installed a tooth bar on my bucket awhile back.
i had to drill two 3/4in. holes in the bucket. i have
a 1/2 drill motor, that runs 450rpm. this is too fast
for this type of drilling. i also have a box that i use
to slow the drill,(electronic) you dial the rpm down.
it worked very well, and i used cutting oil, and used
the different drill sizes,(small to large). i grind the
drill to a different angle, (more shallow) and it does
not cut so aggressively.
good luck with your projects.
accordionman
wlbrown
wright city, mo.

 

[Scrounger]

Drilling for my toothbar was like drilling in butter. I used a hole saw for that. This was drilling in the cutting edge of the bucket and alot more difficult. It was done after a bit of work and alot of cutting oil.