Brush Hogs and swaybars

[Chris_in_Oz]

Hey guys,
I bought a 5' hog for my Iseki and was told by the dealer that I didn't need to attach swaybars - just hang it on the 3-pt. This lets it swing L-R about 2' and it doesn't feel right.
What are your opinions on his advice? Apart from "feeling crappy" is there any risk (to me or the tractor) if I don't have them?
Cheers!

 

[sellercreek]

Personally, I would use the sway (stabilizer) bars. They make a big difference in keeping the cutter tracking correctly and just give me a better feeling about operating the machinery.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

The less anything move around the less wear and tear you get. I also think it would make the tractor a lot more stable if you are on the side of a hill.
Bill

 

[Chris_in_Oz]

Yep - Makes sense on the wear-n-tear front. Might stop it digging in when I turn, too!?!?

 

[sellercreek]

Absolutely!! Restricting movement slows wear and tear and promotes stability.

 

[Chris_in_Oz]

Right-on. As soon as I get outta work, I'm going to go and buy stuff to fix this! (Did you notice how heavily I relied upon that technical term "Stuff"!).

Happy NewYear to all you guys!

Remember - Keep the shiny side up and the rubber side down in 2009...

 

[RalphVa]

I need the sway bars tightened on my 4010, because the brush hog would otherwise swing the lift arms to where they'd rub one of the rear tires. I also wouldn't want that 450# of so wandering around back there. On a hillside, if it suddenly swayed to one side, that could be just enough to send the tractor toppling. Sitting on a tractor with a brush hog going dangerous side up is not my idea of fun. With you in your seat belt, you'd hopefully stay on the correct side, but what it the seat belt let go or wasn't tight enough?

Ralph

 

[Lunk]

I've used a cutter w/o them (old 8N), and with (new Branson).

Get some and use them.

I'll add that you want to be careful how tight you make them tho...I don't think a little "give" is that detrimental, especially if you swing into something while turning.

Good luck and good cutting!

Lunk

 

[Chris_in_Oz]

Hmmm... Food for thought. I'll get them, put them on, tighten them up (but not TOO tight) and see how I go!

Thanks folks!

 

[TomWhite]

Hey guys,
I bought a 5' hog for my Iseki and was told by the dealer that I didn't need to attach swaybars - just hang it on the 3-pt. This lets it swing L-R about 2' and it doesn't feel right.
What are your opinions on his advice? Apart from "feeling crappy" is there any risk (to me or the tractor) if I don't have them?
Cheers!

I think your dealer needs to find another line of work. Reducing sway is essential in operating implements on the 3pt hitch.

 

[Chris_in_Oz]

HAHAHAHAHA - Yep, I think he has.

It was a young bloke, about 18-20, and he doesn't work there any more (not his choice, from what I gather). When I called to enquire about the adjustable links to stop it swinging, I was told that it is REALLY bad to run it like that. I told him that it was advice that came out of his shop. He said to come see him in the New Year and he would make it right.

 

[QRTRHRS]

The 1260 Massey I used to have had clevis pins on the adjustable links. Parked on a level surface, I would raise the deck enough to take the weight off of the rear guide wheel then adjust for about an inch of sway to each side of center.

My Mahindra links do not allow for any flex.

 

[3RRL]

I agree with the crowd who recommend using the sway bars.
Like said, it's important to have a little slack though, to allow the cutter to move a little side to side so you're not pulling over small obstacles that it could naturally scoot over to the side a little. If (when) you hit something it will move a bit on the 3pt but not wildly. Without sway bars, it could move violently to the side causing a lot of stress. A little slack controls that but also lets it find it's own way without being "bound" tight to the tractor.

 

[Chris_in_Oz]

OK - I went and had a look.

Does it matter if I get ones that are basically a bit of chain with a tensioner, or solid ones with a sort-of turnbuckle in the middle??

 

[3RRL]

I prefer the solid ones that are adjustable but either one will work for the brush hog.
I like the solid ones for the extra support when I do boxblading work pushing in reverse. You get compressive resistance on one side as well as the other side giving tensional strength.

 

[Eagleview]

I'm with Rob , the solid ones together with the link arms triangulate the structure which is especially good when reversing with an implement down .

 

[Chris_in_Oz]

Sorry for being sooooo dumb - I hadn't considered the effects of going BACKWARDS!!!

I haven't got a little wheel on the back of mine - it was an option that at the time I didn't know if I needed it. Should I get one, or two, or 20!!!!

 

[Gary Fowler]

You are going to need the rear wheel unless you are mowing on a flat table top. Any little dip or rise with the front wheels is going to make an extreme move with your shredder. The rear wheel will keep the scalping to a minimum while not completely eliminating it, I couldnt imagine bushhogging without an adjustable rear wheel. I also build a set of chains that I attached to the lift pins on each side and then ran up to the second hole in the 3rd point attachment on the tractor. This allows me to hold the bushhog at my preset height without depending on the 3 PH or draft control. It keeps the cutting height exactly the same all the time. I did this because my 3PH was not staying where I wanted it and since it is hard for me to look behind me afte having 3 surgeries on my neck. I now can just hook it up and when I lower it, I know it will be at the right height.

 

[ChuckinNH]

You are going to need the rear wheel unless you are mowing on a flat table top. Any little dip or rise with the front wheels is going to make an extreme move with your shredder. The rear wheel will keep the scalping to a minimum while not completely eliminating it, I couldnt imagine bushhogging without an adjustable rear wheel. I also build a set of chains that I attached to the lift pins on each side and then ran up to the second hole in the 3rd point attachment on the tractor. This allows me to hold the bushhog at my preset height without depending on the 3 PH or draft control. It keeps the cutting height exactly the same all the time. I did this because my 3PH was not staying where I wanted it and since it is hard for me to look behind me afte having 3 surgeries on my neck. I now can just hook it up and when I lower it, I know it will be at the right height.

Gary, could you post a picture of your chain setup?

Chris, Some tractors allow you to set a lower travel limit. It usually is an adjustment rod below the three point hitch control lever. I've done that with my Kubota, but perhaps the chains would be quicker once you knew the length. They also might limit the side to side, up, and down flopping that you sometimes get on ground that is very uneven. Makes a good way to find hiding rocks though!

 

[Chris_in_Oz]

I'd be interested in seeing your setups! Could you guys post some pics of your hog setup (excuse me if this is mid-winter and you have no need to have the hogs on...)