Brush Hog mods

/ Brush Hog mods #201  
I got told that if you leave the brush hog blade dull, it chews up the stubs so much they can't puncture a tractor tire. Not sure if that is true.

But, the guy who told me that has been whacking stuff down for years. And doesn't seem to get many flats.
 
/ Brush Hog mods #202  
I got told that if you leave the brush hog blade dull, it chews up the stubs so much they can't puncture a tractor tire. Not sure if that is true.

But, the guy who told me that has been whacking stuff down for years. And doesn't seem to get many flats.
That's correct, even more so with the chains. Technically it slows the growth down some as well.

If you zoom in on the sticks in front of the front tires, you can see how the material gets ripped apart and kinda leaving this fuzzy ends, which won't damage the tires.

This land I cut was mostly over grown gorse. About 3 to 4 ft tall. Some of the thicker stuff was in the 2.5" in diameter.

IMG_20171007_185629_2.jpg
 
/ Brush Hog mods #203  
That's correct, even more so with the chains. Technically it slows the growth down some as well.

If you zoom in on the sticks in front of the front tires, you can see how the material gets ripped apart and kinda leaving this fuzzy ends, which won't damage the tires.

This land I cut was mostly over grown gorse. About 3 to 4 ft tall. Some of the thicker stuff was in the 2.5" in diameter
But it's so pretty
1742043438153.png
 
/ Brush Hog mods #204  
Realize the last thread activity was in 3/25.

I have read this entire thread and most of the previous thread. One of the first pictures from "ptsg" was in the woods and it almost looked like it was done with a mulcher. Can you get the chains close enough to the ground to almost mulch? Many of the places I would use a chain brush hog have ruts and are very uneven. Would the chains work, kinda like a harley rake? It is hard on a blade when you excavate!

Is here a reason to use a chain shield on the back of the brush hog, other than protecting spectators? I understand a front chain shield protects the tractor and operator.

"scootr" When you cut and drill the old blades and attach the chains to them, did you consider 2 chains, one above and one below, so the shear on the bolts would be equal, not bend and shear? Or did you look for a hardened clevis? How has drilling the blades worked out for you? How hard are the old blades? Did you try to balance them?
 
/ Brush Hog mods #205  
Realize the last thread activity was in 3/25.

I have read this entire thread and most of the previous thread. One of the first pictures from "ptsg" was in the woods and it almost looked like it was done with a mulcher. Can you get the chains close enough to the ground to almost mulch? Many of the places I would use a chain brush hog have ruts and are very uneven. Would the chains work, kinda like a harley rake? It is hard on a blade when you excavate!

Is here a reason to use a chain shield on the back of the brush hog, other than protecting spectators? I understand a front chain shield protects the tractor and operator.

"scootr" When you cut and drill the old blades and attach the chains to them, did you consider 2 chains, one above and one below, so the shear on the bolts would be equal, not bend and shear? Or did you look for a hardened clevis? How has drilling the blades worked out for you? How hard are the old blades? Did you try to balance them?
Chain mulcher is actually a more accurate name for it. You'll actually find more results searching by that name.

It does mulch fairly good and since it tends to rip/tear the material apart, rather than a clean-ish cut compared to the blades, it slows the growth of the brush down.

I deal with uneven ground all the time. It just don't care. You'll see an huge cloud of dust when it hits the ground, so I just lift it. I usually have my hand on the 3 pt lever on these areas to quickly raise the cutter, as it sometimes pops the shear pin.

As far as cutting height, it's adjustable using the skids/skates (?) on the sides. I have 3 positions on mine, lowest being about 1.5" tall and the highest being 3.5", more or less.

I used to run in the lowest setting but due to the uneven ground I usually work on, it did wore out the chains faster than it should. These days I keep it in the middle position.

The chain shield is there to prevent debris from flying and hurting someone or damage something. It's the only type of shield I want on a brush cutter and have no desire to remove it. It works very well at containing the debris and it just lasts a lifetime pretty much. It does need to be correctly built as I've seen some cheap cutters with shields that had the short chains split apart to much that makes it pretty much worthless.

Here is a video if you're interested. Just to show how it behaves and mulches the material. This is an old video and it was the first time I used this tractor and cutter, so I was going slow. Also, on a land I had no previous knowledge and was on a hunt for the limits.

 
/ Brush Hog mods
  • Thread Starter
#206  
As for my low cost conversion drilling the old blades was no problem, they are not hardened. I used grade 8 bolts, washers, nuts and grade 7 chain. Wonder if 2 chains might get knotted up. But has shredded everything I have run over so far. Just like a brush hog going slower produces a more complete cut and the same with a flail. I have all 3 types of mowers and they all have their plusses and minuses... mostly use the chain mower for rough cut where I'm bound to hit rocks
 
/ Brush Hog mods #207  
Chain mulcher is actually a more accurate name for it. You'll actually find more results searching by that name.

It does mulch fairly good and since it tends to rip/tear the material apart, rather than a clean-ish cut compared to the blades, it slows the growth of the brush down.

I deal with uneven ground all the time. It just don't care. You'll see an huge cloud of dust when it hits the ground, so I just lift it. I usually have my hand on the 3 pt lever on these areas to quickly raise the cutter, as it sometimes pops the shear pin.

As far as cutting height, it's adjustable using the skids/skates (?) on the sides. I have 3 positions on mine, lowest being about 1.5" tall and the highest being 3.5", more or less.

I used to run in the lowest setting but due to the uneven ground I usually work on, it did wore out the chains faster than it should. These days I keep it in the middle position.

The chain shield is there to prevent debris from flying and hurting someone or damage something. It's the only type of shield I want on a brush cutter and have no desire to remove it. It works very well at containing the debris and it just lasts a lifetime pretty much. It does need to be correctly built as I've seen some cheap cutters with shields that had the short chains split apart to much that makes it pretty much worthless.

Here is a video if you're interested. Just to show how it behaves and mulches the material. This is an old video and it was the first time I used this tractor and cutter, so I was going slow. Also, on a land I had no previous knowledge and was on a hunt for the limits.

It appears that you are cutting 4" too low, not allowing the cut debris to escape.
 
/ Brush Hog mods #210  
I'm just mowing brush for fire prevention. It's not a lawn, it's not a scientific task. Just needs the brush gone and preferably in a way that takes longer to grow back.

This was done in 2017 and this brush was growing since the last wildfire we had in the area, back in 2009.

Came out pretty well for the first job with this setup:

IMG_20171004_175426.jpg
 
Last edited:
/ Brush Hog mods #211  
I'm just mowing brush for fire prevention. It's not a lawn, it's not a scientific task. Just needs the brush gone and preferably in a way that takes longer to grow back.

This was done in 2017 and this brush was growing since the last wildfire we had in the area, back in 2009.

Came out pretty well for the first job with this setup:

View attachment 4184421
Well Done
 
/ Brush Hog mods #212  
Chain mulcher is actually a more accurate name for it. You'll actually find more results searching by that name.

Here is a video if you're interested. Just to show how it behaves and mulches the material. This is an old video and it was the first time I used this tractor and cutter, so I was going slow. Also, on a land I had no previous knowledge and was on a hunt for the limits.
Found those two big rocks pretty quickly by the sounds of it. Sure would have been damaging to a set of blades.
 
/ Brush Hog mods #213  
Found those two big rocks pretty quickly by the sounds of it. Sure would have been damaging to a set of blades.
That's the big advantage of chains. It will hit rocks, let you know there is a rock there and keep going. I keep my hand on the 3 pt lever most of the time, if I know there are rocks in the ground, so I can lift it quickly.
 
/ Brush Hog mods #214  
Just did another small field the other day. It was nice to be able to cut in 2nd gear, medium range and pretty much just going around. More often than not, it's a low range job due to how rough the land is or because of all the hidden objects in the middle of the brush.

IMG_20251007_163800.jpg
 
/ Brush Hog mods #215  
With proper chain skirts and with the cutter on the ground, if the bolt breaks, the chain should stay contained within the cutter.

I'm running 1 link short on my set of chains because I broke one on the links on one of the chains. Both broken pieces landed exactly where it broke. I then cut 1 link on the other good chain and have been running since.
When a blade on my 6" King Kutter broke at the bolt hole. The blade went completely through the side of the deck, which is 3/16" steel, and landed 4' away. That was at 540 RPM shaft speed.
 
/ Brush Hog mods #216  
When a blade on my 6" King Kutter broke at the bolt hole. The blade went completely through the side of the deck, which is 3/16" steel, and landed 4' away. That was at 540 RPM shaft speed.
It just goes to show that a blade is actually much more dangerous than a piece of chain, contrary to what people think. I believe your cutter has a 1:1,47 gearbox ratio. These chain mulchers we use here have a 1:1,92 ratio, so it spins faster than the typical cutter with blades.

My cutter, which is considered a light duty, is built with 5 mm (13/64") thick steel all around. The sides fold down and then the skids bolt to it. The skids are also 5 mm but the actual part that slides on the ground is 8 mm (5/16").

Essentially, it makes the sides are 10 mm (3/8") thick. That's a lot to go through and a chain doesn't really have any sharp points that could even try to pierce through. It just hits and folds within itself. At most, it would put a dent but it has thrown loads of rocks that hit the sides and haven't done any damage either.

IMG_20250625_122004.jpg
 
/ Brush Hog mods #217  
I got told that if you leave the brush hog blade dull, it chews up the stubs so much they can't puncture a tractor tire. Not sure if that is true.

But, the guy who told me that has been whacking stuff down for years. And doesn't seem to get many flats.
I agree. We use sharp blades to mow pastures. When they get dull we mow down anything the tractor will push over. The stumps are left shattered, which promotes rotting and lessens the chance of damaging tires.
 

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