Broke Down and Got One of those Fake Drawbars :-(

   / Broke Down and Got One of those Fake Drawbars :-( #31  
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These drawbar locks are a must. I've used this type of drawbar over they years and these little clamps solve lots of unsolvable problems before they occur, especially if working in the woods. Plus, there's a little fab time in making one. There's a store-bought one out there for maybe $20 but it doesn't work correctly and doesn't last very long. Make the one in the picture.

Quality Farm Supply, Agrisupply, Tractor Supply and others have these "drawbar locks" for around $21. Maybe what sixdogs is referring to.
drawbar lock.jpg

I've had one for 25 years. Haven't looked at the ones available today, but mine is quite sturdy. For more strength you can always use two, one for each link arm.

These don't work, though, if you want to use a 3pt cross drawbar in a "quick hitch". Here's one solution that I posted last year to pull a manure spreader.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/404937-adapting-3pt-drawbar-generic-quick.html
 
   / Broke Down and Got One of those Fake Drawbars :-( #32  
After reading most of the posts in this thread I am wondering why a person doesn't just run the 3PH top link down to the drawbar to stabilize.
Doing an image search for 3PH stabilizers brought up this photo:
 

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   / Broke Down and Got One of those Fake Drawbars :-( #33  
Because if you do that, you can't lift and lower the 3 point hitch which is one of the main reasons why I would tow something from the drawbar.
I like moving trailers and equipment around with the drawbar on the three point hitch because then I don't have to fuss with the jack, I just back up to it, drop the pin in, lift it up and off I go.

Aaron Z
 
   / Broke Down and Got One of those Fake Drawbars :-( #34  
After reading most of the posts in this thread I am wondering why a person doesn't just run the 3PH top link down to the drawbar to stabilize.

That's what several of us have done. The available trailer movers do the same thing. They're basically a subsoiler/middlebuster but with a hitch tube or ball attached. Adding a vertical support to a draw bar would give you the multiple pin holes if you need them.

I wouldn't do it like the one in the picture though. I'd bolt a vertical bar/tube to the drawbar with a pivot point at the top to use the toplink normally.

Because if you do that, you can't lift and lower the 3 point hitch which is one of the main reasons why I would tow something from the drawbar.
I like moving trailers and equipment around with the drawbar on the three point hitch because then I don't have to fuss with the jack, I just back up to it, drop the pin in, lift it up and off I go.

Sure I can. Makes it even easier to align hitch to trailer instead of trying to lift the trailer onto the hitch ball or to position the pin..
 
   / Broke Down and Got One of those Fake Drawbars :-( #35  
You guys are reinventing the wheel with your top link stabilizers. Adjustable bars have been available for generations to keep the drawbar from raising; I have a set out in my shed, which came with my 8N.
 
   / Broke Down and Got One of those Fake Drawbars :-( #36  
Sure I can. Makes it even easier to align hitch to trailer instead of trying to lift the trailer onto the hitch ball or to position the pin..
Not with the top link attaching directly to the drawbar like the picture I was responding to did.
If you have an arm to give vertical seperation, sure (and I have one that does that) but that is not what was happening in the picture I was responding to.

Aaron Z
 
   / Broke Down and Got One of those Fake Drawbars :-( #37  
You guys are reinventing the wheel with your top link stabilizers. Adjustable bars have been available for generations to keep the drawbar from raising; I have a set out in my shed, which came with my 8N.

We had the slotted adjustable flat iron stabilizers on our early 1950's 8N. The problem was they were only good in tension. They would easily bend if someone accidentally raised the 3PH.
 
   / Broke Down and Got One of those Fake Drawbars :-( #38  
After reading most of the posts in this thread I am wondering why a person doesn't just run the 3PH top link down to the drawbar to stabilize.
Doing an image search for 3PH stabilizers brought up this photo:

I would think this setup would be readily adjustable for hitch height when attaching pull type implements. Only thing better would be a hydraulic top link mounted as shown. Just be sure the ball joints have enough swivel.
The bonus feature would be that it also acts as a lateral stabilizer. Right?3PH-STABILIZE-1.JPG
 
   / Broke Down and Got One of those Fake Drawbars :-( #39  
I DIY'ed this,, you could convert yours to a ball,, then the problem goes away,,
plus, at hookup, the tractor does everything, while you set in the seat,, except for flipping the lever after hookup,,,

If I am only on level ground, I never have to even get off when I move a trailer,
just go to the next spot unlatched,,,

I have a "store-bought" version of the same thing for moving trailers and such. Converting the splitter to work with a ball hitch would allow safer travel over uneven ground.
 
   / Broke Down and Got One of those Fake Drawbars :-( #40  
We had the slotted adjustable flat iron stabilizers on our early 1950's 8N. The problem was they were only good in tension. They would easily bend if someone accidentally raised the 3PH.

That is why many people chose to use the chain version because they won't bend if you lift the 3pt.

tree chains 012_1.JPG
 
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