Broke bolt dilemma -- HELP!

[john_bud]

Hmmm, maybe. It would be drilling thru about 1 1/2 to 2" of total steel to get there and I would need a 18 - 24" long drill bit. Depending on how things go, that might be an option, but that much drilling is scary. Also, the hydraulic lines to/from the pump are in the first "slot" and the radiator is in the second "slot". Hmmm, getting the radiator out of the way is a big job - probably it would be about the same time to just strip it down at that point.

Interesting idea though.

Thanks,
jb

 

[laurencen]

hi,the dremel idea is to use a 3/32 dia engraving/burr, from the bolt face instead of drilling cut a slot, it will look like a screw head when complete, then use a screw driver to take it out like a screw, assuming you can get in with a dremel hand tool flex shaft, heck you could cut a cross shape and use a large phillips

 

[john_bud]

OH!

I wasn't thinking of it in that direction. Not sure if my hands are that steady.


Here's what I did so far. My buddies dad came thru and produced 3 drill guides that will go into the housing. They are the diameter of a 5/8 bolt and 1.25" long with ID of 1/8, 1/4 and 3/8". I can slip in a guide and should have less of a chance of snapping a drill bit off and making it much worse. Also the hole should be close enough to the center.

Stopped by the local Chevy dealer. They moved the parts department into the service area, but were unfortunately closed on Sat. There was a lone tech working on a truck and he asked what I was looking for. Told him the heat riser penetrant stuff. He reached over and GAVE me a squirt can that was nearly empty, but plenty full for my uses! Nice guys those Chevy techs!

Next stop was the farm store for a 90 degree drill. They had Milwaukee and DeWalt in electric. $119 and $159 respectively. Only one CP reversible air drill for $77. When I say only one, I mean I bought the last one they had.

Then stopped at the tool store that has lots of drills and taps to get a left hand drill tap to tap the bolt remnant - but they close at 12:00 and it was 12:05. Dark and closed up tight. Rats!

Went thru my drawers in the tool chest and found 4 left hand bits. Looks like I will have to use a RT 1/8 but a L 1/4".

The remnant is bathing in the GM penetrant (sticky feeling stuff). May try and drill the 1/8" hole tomorrow. I've got that spunky gotta try out the new tool feeling that is hard to control!

jb

 

[diyDave]

If you can find one, you might want to try a Souix Falls close quarter 3/8 inch drill, its not a true right angle maybe 100 or 110 degrees. Try the bushing routine, and get a 1/4 inch center hole drilled in, as square as possible. Then try to get it to 3/8, then thread it WITH A LEFT HANDED TAP, FOR A LEFT HANDED BOLT! This assumes you can get a tap in there, in the first place. If you accomplish this herculean effort, with out getting hot drill debris into your eye(s), then thread in a left hand bolt, and try to extract the broken bolt thataway. Of course try to remove any lateral pressure on that bolt/mount before you monkey with it too hard! The LAST thing you want to end up with is a busted off drill or tap or bolt in that hole you are making! Good luck!

 

[gary pate]

Hey guys, how about wax.

 

[john_bud]

Hip Hip --> Hooray!

Or maybe it should be "plop plop fizz fizz, oh what a relief it is"!

Well the bolt has met it's match.

I couldn't wait and decided to just pop in the 1/8" hole. I put in the bushing and just lightly drilled.

Here's a picture of the bushings or drill guides.

Then took a look with the little mirror. Uh-oh. As I feared, the engine had sagged and the hole in the block was no longer aligned with the mount. SNIT!


If you look hard, you can see the drill spot on the bolt part and see that it is well off center.

Had to raise the engine up on one side about 1/4". Now remember that there is another 5/8 bolt 8" away from this one, two mounts that bolt to 2 locations on the transmission with 3 3/4" bolts and the rear end is bolted to the frame rails. The frame is 3/8" C channel 6" tall. Tough stuff, especially with about 10# of extra steel scabbed onto the weak areas! Raised the tractor up and put a 4x4 under the oil pan, resting on bolt heads so the pan wouldn't take a beating. Then undid the transmission mount to the frame rail. Used a chisel as a wedge under that mount to raise it up some. Then wiggled the whole deal with a 5' long pry bar. All while using the CP 90 degree drill and trying not to snap off a bit. Left hand bits, naturally.

This is the 4x4 under the edge of the block. I raised the tractor up with the FEL then carefully lowered it down to help force it back into alignment.

After I got the engine aligned (more on that later), I drilled with the 1/4" LH bit. It went on, but the drill would bind easily and that was very scary. So, it was drill a bit, take it out and inspect, then drill a bit and inspect. After a short while it was no longer drilling, so I went back to the 1/8" bit to get a pilot hole. It really was scary as any binding would snap the bit and really be a mess. After a dozen checks, it suddenly had a loose feel. I looked and it had turned! Yippie. Up sized to the 1/4" and drilled/checked some more. Did I mention the use of the GM penetrant? after every other check, it got a squirt. In between squirts were sprays with brake cleaner. During the checks, I would try and spin the bolt part with screw drivers, chisels, picks and what not. It did spin! More yippee! and Hooray! But the holes was well off and the bit now REALLY wanted to bind and snap. Big SNIT!

More wedging of the mounts, diddling with the weight of the machine on the 4x4 and prying with the 5' bar and my 4' crows foot pry bar.

Then I switched to a larger 5/16 LH bit with no bushing. The bolt part spun out part way.


You can see the threads of the bolt in the gap. sort of.

Well, the reason it was only out partway, is the alignment was still off. After mucho more diddling with it, I finally had my wife come out and pull down on the 5' bar while drilling. ZIP! out it came.

You can see the amount of mis-alignment.

Tools of the trade...

I got a new grade 8 bolt - there was a grade 5 in there. And was able to tread it in. I added a flat washer and lock washer under the bolt head to keep it from bottoming. Assuming that was the root issue. Bolt bottomed and the knuckle dragger that tightened the bolt down (me) hit bottom and over torqued.

I REALLY want to THANK YOU ALL for the support, suggestions and offers to send specialized tools. I'm deeply touched. This could have been a really time consuming ugly fix. With your help, my buddies dad's help, and all it was "only" a 5 1/2 hour chore to remove the bolt remnant and get a new one in there. By the way, I gave my son a bonus of $5 for seeing the bolt half on the ground and bringing it to my attention right away. Without that bolt, a cycle of super high stresses would have cracked structural members and probably lead to a major catastrophe. TLB's don't like to be shorted on the support bolts!


Thanks again!
jb

 

[montejw]

Hip Hip --> Hooray!

Or maybe it should be "plop plop fizz fizz, oh what a relief it is"!

Well the bolt has met it's match.

I couldn't wait and decided to just pop in the 1/8" hole. I put in the bushing and just lightly drilled.

Here's a picture of the bushings or drill guides.....

That's cool! The drill bushings look like something to remember, pretty key to getting this bolt out.

 

[john_bud]

That's cool! The drill bushings look like something to remember, pretty key to getting this bolt out.

no kidding! Some guys can drill a plumb line. I can't drill straight with a drill press!! I really don't think I could have done it and not broken a drill bit without those bushings. It's good to have friends with skills...

jb

 

[JerryG]

Man did you save yourself a lot of work. Glad that you got it out. Some might call me over cautious, but I think that I would go ahead and change out the other bolt with a new one.

 

[dberry]

Glad you got it out! Too late to help, but maybe help someone else some day, I would have heated it gently with a propane torch several times between the penetrant. Sometimes a little heating and cooling can spread things out just enough to help.