Bridge 4's 2638 HST CAB B.S. and ?? Thread

[bridge4]

I wanted to make a thread that I could consolidate all my questions, any possible mods, and my reviews on implements I use etc...:thumbsup:

I got a 2019 2638 w/Cab and HST dropped off yesterday, had 4 hours on it. I added 2 rear spools, and will add 3rd function later on. Got the quick hitch for the 3pt but need to put it on still. I've only got about an hour of seat time on the Mahindra so far. Before this I've used my father's Cabbed 90's JD and early 2000 Kubota, the JD is mid 50hp and the Kubota is low 40's. I like the Kubota the best, but the JD certainly was the go too for bigger things or pulling someone out in the snow.

I got this to primarily load a compost spreader during growing season to build my turf, plow and blow in the winter to keep parking lots and our driveways open. I also want to get a box blade/land plane eventually as well to clean up and smooth out my trails and old logging roads. The main reason I went with Mahindra was price, dealer location and this series seems to be reliable and well made.

Right now I only have an hour on it, primarily just playing around with loader bucket and getting used to the driving modes and seeing where I fit on existing trails. With the loader on the front, the rear tires have very little traction to push up hills or small brook banks. I need to find someone local who can fill tires, and get some rear implements going to balance out the weight. The loader itself seems to run very smoothly and I have been happy with it. The only thing I am not really concerned, but wondering about is the hydraulic squealing sound when accelerating, I've never heard that on other tractors? Am I running at a wrong RPM or not doing something? Or are these tractors just a little noisey? I've also noticed reverse isn't super smooth. I'm wondering if that's a result of my weight imbalance a little bit though as well.

Anyways, any tips or suggestions would be great. I did read the manual and actually found it somewhat useful despite what people have said on here. I will admit that for anything more complex than changing fluids, I'll be searching youtube for better examples. There were a few points where it told you to look at another section for information then it wasn't there.:confused3:

Anyways, so far I'm happy, and as I get used to operation and adjust to everything I'm sure I'll be even happier. :dance1: I have a 40 foot HC shipping container coming hopefully next week for storage.

Not sure why photo is upside down, and tips on that appreciated as well.

 

[RNeumann]

I’d spring for a heavy/nice box blade. With the rear remotes I’d spring for a box with hydraulic rippers. The extra weight will help with the loader function and counter weight. I leave my box on all the time and have zero issues with the rear end feeling light.

I also have beet juice in my tires. For simplicity I’d add a second valve stem in the rims.

 

[duffer]

Congrats on the 2638. I have a 2538 for about 2½ years now, and no problems. Yours is an update to my model. You have a better seat, a power port, and cup holder. The drive trains are the same.

You're right, the HST makes some noise when it's under load, and especially when starting out, or not at full throttle (for HST, not engine). Tractor Mike suggests that it's better to run the HST tranny at full foot peddle rather than just "feathering" the foot peddle to achieve lower speeds. He suggests shifting the tranny to Low and use full peddle. The reason is that it supposedly keeps the hydraulic oil flowing better, and keeps it cooler.

Agree with RNeumann to get your tires filled. I haven't had any traction problems with mine, even with 800 lb in the FEL. Once I get up to over 1000+ lb, I could use a counter weight.

Mine seems to run smoother and stronger at 1600-1900 rpms. I only go above that when I'm using the PTO. (dealer may have showed you this, but if not, I'll repeat it here) Your PTO has 3 safety/engagement procedures. The lever to the left of the seat, engages/dis-engages the gears. The 2 buttons on the dash are safety switches. When you're trying to hook up different PTO attachments, dis-engage the lever to the left of the seat. This allows the PTO spline on the rear of the tractor to spin freely in either direction. Makes lining up your PTO splines a piece of cake.

If you move a lot of dirt/sand, buy some zerk covers off of ebay. Worth their weight in gold to keep zerks clean.

Sounds like you're going to be doing a lot of box bladeing, or some sort of leveling of trails. If they are hilly (or even if they're not) consider getting cruise control. If you are going a mile or so at once, it can take a lot of pressure off your knee, from not having to depress the accelerator peddle constantly. I think they run about $180, and the tractor is already set up to mount and plug it in. Took me 15 minutes to hook mine up. I love it.

Depending on when your tractor was built, you might want to check with the dealer to make sure you have the latest software update for the computer. Had mine updated, and what a difference. Runs stronger now, than when new. You might already have the latest update, but worth checking into.

Spend 15-20 minutes inspecting the tractor and making notes where all the grease zerks are. Manual doesn't tell you all of them.

I envy you with your cab! :cloud9:

 

[RNeumann]

With regards to the noise- I don’t think their is much to worry about. Folks have had different results with different fluid (THF). It’s not real practical to try different brands at 8is (guess) gallons a pop and only needing to change every 300 hours or so. I would spring for something “nice” at the 50 hour change. Something like Chevron Delo THF or Shell THF. I’ve used Delo with good results and others have had good luck with Shell. Their are mixed results with TSC’s fluid and one of the complaints I’ve read is noise- especially when cold.

I assume your engine is the same. If so, I’ve had good results at 1800-2000rpm. The PTO speeds are up in the 2200rpm range. The emissions engines don’t really like the low RPMs for long periods.

 

[bridge4]

Congrats on the 2638. I have a 2538 for about 2½ years now, and no problems. Yours is an update to my model. You have a better seat, a power port, and cup holder. The drive trains are the same.

You're right, the HST makes some noise when it's under load, and especially when starting out, or not at full throttle (for HST, not engine). Tractor Mike suggests that it's better to run the HST tranny at full foot peddle rather than just "feathering" the foot peddle to achieve lower speeds. He suggests shifting the tranny to Low and use full peddle. The reason is that it supposedly keeps the hydraulic oil flowing better, and keeps it cooler.

Agree with RNeumann to get your tires filled. I haven't had any traction problems with mine, even with 800 lb in the FEL. Once I get up to over 1000+ lb, I could use a counter weight.

Mine seems to run smoother and stronger at 1600-1900 rpms. I only go above that when I'm using the PTO. (dealer may have showed you this, but if not, I'll repeat it here) Your PTO has 3 safety/engagement procedures. The lever to the left of the seat, engages/dis-engages the gears. The 2 buttons on the dash are safety switches. When you're trying to hook up different PTO attachments, dis-engage the lever to the left of the seat. This allows the PTO spline on the rear of the tractor to spin freely in either direction. Makes lining up your PTO splines a piece of cake.

If you move a lot of dirt/sand, buy some zerk covers off of ebay. Worth their weight in gold to keep zerks clean.

Sounds like you're going to be doing a lot of box bladeing, or some sort of leveling of trails. If they are hilly (or even if they're not) consider getting cruise control. If you are going a mile or so at once, it can take a lot of pressure off your knee, from not having to depress the accelerator peddle constantly. I think they run about $180, and the tractor is already set up to mount and plug it in. Took me 15 minutes to hook mine up. I love it.

Depending on when your tractor was built, you might want to check with the dealer to make sure you have the latest software update for the computer. Had mine updated, and what a difference. Runs stronger now, than when new. You might already have the latest update, but worth checking into.

Spend 15-20 minutes inspecting the tractor and making notes where all the grease zerks are. Manual doesn't tell you all of them.

I envy you with your cab! :cloud9:

Thanks for all the advice and happy to hear you enjoy yours! Good tips on zerk covers and PTO. I think I will look into cruise control, and I will check about software updates!

 

[bridge4]

With regards to the noise- I don’t think their is much to worry about. Folks have had different results with different fluid (THF). It’s not real practical to try different brands at 8is (guess) gallons a pop and only needing to change every 300 hours or so. I would spring for something “nice” at the 50 hour change. Something like Chevron Delo THF or Shell THF. I’ve used Delo with good results and others have had good luck with Shell. Their are mixed results with TSC’s fluid and one of the complaints I’ve read is noise- especially when cold.

I assume your engine is the same. If so, I’ve had good results at 1800-2000rpm. The PTO speeds are up in the 2200rpm range. The emissions engines don’t really like the low RPMs for long periods.

Thanks for the tips on the fluid, I had no idea there were much differences between brands, I will have to spring for something nice for sure. I plan on doing a lot of cold work, so it should be worth it!

 

[bridge4]

Good day with the tractor today, spent a few hours loading my compost spreader and was pleased with how things went. I feel like it was a little less squeaky, low gear did the trick for getting the bucket filled and I continue to be impressed with the smoothness of the loader.

Called the local Pete's Tire Barn and have an appointment for the 13th to get the tires filled with Rim Guard. I lowered my PSI to 12.5 from over 20 from the dealer, that has made a pretty big difference, but some more weight would be nice, especially with the bucket full and up. I didn't find it too bad though even without them. Will take some pictures of that process and post them when it happens. He did warn me their driver for this area is off this week, so next Tuesday is going to be busy and it might be the week after. I am in no particular hurry, so I will wait. For those wondering I got quoted 2.90 per gallon, and require 24 gallons each tire to fill to Rim Guards suggested level I think of 75%. $100 per hour when they get here, but no charge for travel as they come through the area every week. Be interested to hear anyones experience with pricing if they think that sounds reasonable. I figure for the benefits it isn't too bad? But I have no idea what is normal.

Happy with the tractor so far and looking forward to using it with the tires filled.

 

[3gunr]

I filled my tires with rv fluid and im pretty sure it took over 40 gal per tire to fillto top of the rim . I was very impressed with how much better my traction was and stability I have right at 190 hrs on my 2017 2538 and love it. wish i had rear remotes.

 

[bridge4]

I filled my tires with rv fluid and im pretty sure it took over 40 gal per tire to fillto top of the rim . I was very impressed with how much better my traction was and stability I have right at 190 hrs on my 2017 2538 and love it. wish i had rear remotes.

40 gallons each tire! What size are yours? Mine are 11.2-24 on the rear. The website and dealer both said 24 each to get 75% filled.

Happy to hear you are happy with yours though, I know we have pretty much the same tractor with a different seat. Haven't gotten to use my rear remotes yet, and probably won't buy anything that would use it until the snowblower in a month or two. Hoping they run well like the front has!

 

[3gunr]

You must have r1 tires on yours, mine are r4s they era 16:20size. they do hold more fluid.