Bridge 4's 2638 HST CAB B.S. and ?? Thread

[RNeumann]

Mine was done without it. Obviously it’s hard to add after the fact.

 

[mpallmerine]

filled to about 75% (valve stem at 12 o'clock, no weight on the tire) the R4's on my 2638 took exactly 40 gallons each of -20 windshield washer fluid.

 

[bridge4]

filled to about 75% (valve stem at 12 o'clock, no weight on the tire) the R4's on my 2638 took exactly 40 gallons each of -20 windshield washer fluid.

Guys are coming to fill them today, so I will see what they say, the chart says about 38 gallons. How do you like the tractor with the tires filled? Much difference?

 

[mpallmerine]

Guys are coming to fill them today, so I will see what they say, the chart says about 38 gallons. How do you like the tractor with the tires filled? Much difference?

It makes a huge difference when doing rear implement work like the box blade or a straight blade. I don't do any mowing or anything like that so I'm not sure how it is for that. I have my backhoe on 90% of the time so I'm used to the added weight and find it helpful.

 

[bridge4]

Tires got filled, guy who filled them said to wait overnight to let it settle some so the foam from pumping it in goes down.


Anyways, got a question. I have been having a real struggle getting the tractor to shift the last day or so, does anyone have any ideas why? I've tried changing rpm and that doesn't do anything, seems to struggle for a while then all of a sudden goes pretty smooth again. Maybe needs to warm up more?

 

[mwayne]

Anyways, got a question. I have been having a real struggle getting the tractor to shift the last day or so, does anyone have any ideas why? I've tried changing rpm and that doesn't do anything, seems to struggle for a while then all of a sudden goes pretty smooth again. Maybe needs to warm up more?

There's a thread on here regarding the difficult shifting. The other person detailed how some oil on the linkage as it entered the transmission housing made a big difference. I shot some WD-40 on mine and it seemed to help.

 

[bridge4]

There's a thread on here regarding the difficult shifting. The other person detailed how some oil on the linkage as it entered the transmission housing made a big difference. I shot some WD-40 on mine and it seemed to help.

Thanks for the tip, I'm a rookie with a lot of this stuff, do you know the best place to get at the linkage? I have some nice lube oil I would be happy to apply to it. I searched a bit and read a few ideas. Still need to take a look and see how to get at it. Can I just go from the top of the shifter down, or should I start under the tractor?

Appreciate any help!

 

[mwayne]

Thanks for the tip, I'm a rookie with a lot of this stuff, do you know the best place to get at the linkage? I have some nice lube oil I would be happy to apply to it. I searched a bit and read a few ideas. Still need to take a look and see how to get at it. Can I just go from the top of the shifter down, or should I start under the tractor?

Appreciate any help!

Here's the link to the thread referred to:
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/mahindra-owning-operating/412797-2538-will-not-shift-out.html
Apparently I'm suffering from a case of CRS, LOL. He actually put a wrench on his to help it.

 

[bridge4]

Here's the link to the thread referred to:
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/mahindra-owning-operating/412797-2538-will-not-shift-out.html
Apparently I'm suffering from a case of CRS, LOL. He actually put a wrench on his to help it.

Thanks!

 

[bridge4]

Bridge 4's Mahindra 2638 HST CAB OIL CHANGE @ 17 Hours

Hey All, So instead of doing a whole new thread like I did the block heater, I will just post about the oil change here. While there are plenty of older threads and changing oil is sort of basic, there isn't much about the 2638 specifically, a lot of the stuff online is for the 2538. I know they are basically the same, but I figured the more stuff that pops up specific, the easier for newer owners to find when searching. There is also a bit of a trick to finding the fill cap and it isn't in the manual. I had to find a video online and watch it.

So, I have 17 hours almost to the dot on the 2638 and I wanted to change the oil for winter, hoping the more extreme temp oil would work in conjunction with the coolant heater, maybe it's overkill, maybe it isn't needed. But I did it.

Tools used:
New filter from dealer, part # is visible on the box I believe if you zoom
Screw driver
Impact with 7/8 socket
Oil filter wrench


Pretty simple stuff!

So first things first, get the engine warmed up so the oil drains more quickly, then drain the oil! The magnetic plugs had some goup on them, and once I wiped that off there was a fair amount of metallic sludge. Nothing absurd, but there was enough metal floating around in my oil that I am happy I did the change at 17 hours and not 50. I will change it again after winter snow season, which I am guessing will be the 50-60 hour mark depending on the season.




Then I took off the filter to replace the new one, looked pretty good in there! Don't forget to rub some old oil around the gasket! And don't over-tighten it either! I tightened by hand like it said until tight, then another 1/2 turn.


Then put back the magnetic oil plugs, and it's time to refill that oil!! But wait, where in the **** is the oil fill!! This is actually pretty ridiculous IMO from Mahindra here. I have never seen a car, lawn mower, truck etc... without a clearly labeled fill neck, usually with a yellow cap, but most of the time at least the oil symbol. Not here boys! The manual shows where, but not how to open, and if you are doing this the first time it can be confusing I think.



So, put the screwdriver underneath and slowly prop up from around it sorta like a paint can. Be careful to avoid the nipple and hose as you don't want to damage them. A good smack or two puts it back into place.


I used Shell Rotella T-6 full synthetic. Did I need full synthetic, don't know, been told probably not, especially with engine block heater installed. Like I said, I did it anyways and as I plan on using this primarily as a snow machine for the next 4-5 months, I'm not gonna worry about spending an extra 15 dollars over 2 gallons. I used almost the entire two gallons. I put in about 1.7 gallons, the dipstick was showing slightly over recommended levels. I ran the tractor for 5-10 minutes, let it cool, and the dipstick showed just over the minimum. I added a bit more and called it day. It now shows a little over half between the two recommended lines.

I also had some Motor Kote heavy duty lube hanging around I figured I'd try. I would say I got about 8oz in there of that, recommends 2oz per quart.

Ran the tractor after everything was back together to check for leaks etc.... everything ran well and engine sounded great. Coolant levels were good from last weeks change over as well.


:thumbsup:

 

[bridge4]

Focal Speaker Instal

Todays project was to upgrade the speakers. The ones in there weren't bad, but I wanted to see how an upgrade would do. Process was pretty straight forward, I cut the old connector that wouldn't line up with the new speakers and then connect the wire to the new connector pieces, and plugged it in! Some crimping and electrical tape were involved as well, but nothing too crazy.

Speakers are a big improvement and from my past dealings with Focals, they will only sound better with time. Be fun if there was space for a sub to be hidden behind the seat, but we all know how small these cabs are! I did not replace the head unit, it is actually way more advanced and capable than I would have thought a tractor would have. Ipod connect, spotify, pandora, usb etc.... Handles the new speakers just fine. Will have to figure out how to play with sound settings a little on it though.


Stock speakers, honestly, I pulled worse out of my tacoma and 4 runner. They aren't really that bad of a speaker.



New speakers. Grills that come with them wouldn't fit, will have to be a little careful. With the tweeter sticking out so far I was hesitant to cram the old one on either. I think will be fine exposed since they are on roof.





There ya are!


I ordered a rooftop 360 LED light for winter plowing work, it plugs into cig outlet and is magnetic. I will post some pics and night shots once it comes in and I get it on, probably early next week.

 

[bridge4]

Hit 21 hours today. Have used it the last 3/4 hours dragging logs, lifting logs, and running in some deep mud.


I love this tractor.

Now I know someone else with a new open station 16something and they had their loader **** the bed, but I haven't had any issues except some sticky shifting at times *knocks on ALL the wood* I have ended up using it in a few ways I wouldn't have thought, like moving a 800 lb safe, building bridges and I'm sure one or two other things and I've been really happy every time I use it.

It was also nice to work the tractor like I was and with the new oil and coolant, never even hit 1/2 way on the temp gauge, it stays steady around 40% no matter what I have been doing. Very happy with these results as you get so much mixed advice, and I have never owned a tractor before.

I have a LP SB1064 and a SPL72 (snowblower and front snow push box) on order a few weeks ago, and am hoping those are ready for pick up when I get back from a vacation to the Grand Canyon the 3rd week of November. I am very excited to work this in the winter with the heated cab and upgraded speakers.

Might change out the front axle oil, I think I will get close to the 50 hours before snow season is up, and I have been using this in 4L pretty much exclusively, with quick bursts of 2H on the highway. The thought is, put some fresh oil in now, then in spring when I do a complete 50 hour service, just do all the fluids again. I know it's probably overkill...but I like the idea of filling up my tractor with all the freshest nicest liquids I can put in her, really spoil it if you would. Now again, might be stupid and not needed, but I sure don't think it can hurt?

My only question is Hydraulic or 80w90, I am thinking some Hydraulic oil, as I have read it works better in cold, and that is the season we are about to get. Open to anyone's opinion on that.

There are 2 things that so far I'm not in love with, but aren't too big an issue

1) My size 12/13 foot seems to get caught under the forward pedal, while using the reverse, has made stopping backing up tricky a few times, luckily all in open areas doing loader work. I might cut some of the rubber off the forward petal. Now I wear crocs or big knee high water boots usually when in it, and neither are skinny, but I'd like another inch of room.

2) The shifting getting sticky sometimes, I have learned to rock back and forth lightly until I can easily move the shifter, but I just wish I didn't have to do that and it would just shift smoothly like it should.

Thats it, I love it otherwise!

 

[mwayne]

Hit 21 hours today. Have used it the last 3/4 hours dragging logs, lifting logs, and running in some deep mud.


I love this tractor.

Now I know someone else with a new open station 16something and they had their loader **** the bed, but I haven't had any issues except some sticky shifting at times *knocks on ALL the wood* I have ended up using it in a few ways I wouldn't have thought, like moving a 800 lb safe, building bridges and I'm sure one or two other things and I've been really happy every time I use it.

It was also nice to work the tractor like I was and with the new oil and coolant, never even hit 1/2 way on the temp gauge, it stays steady around 40% no matter what I have been doing. Very happy with these results as you get so much mixed advice, and I have never owned a tractor before.

I have a LP SB1064 and a SPL72 (snowblower and front snow push box) on order a few weeks ago, and am hoping those are ready for pick up when I get back from a vacation to the Grand Canyon the 3rd week of November. I am very excited to work this in the winter with the heated cab and upgraded speakers.

Might change out the front axle oil, I think I will get close to the 50 hours before snow season is up, and I have been using this in 4L pretty much exclusively, with quick bursts of 2H on the highway. The thought is, put some fresh oil in now, then in spring when I do a complete 50 hour service, just do all the fluids again. I know it's probably overkill...but I like the idea of filling up my tractor with all the freshest nicest liquids I can put in her, really spoil it if you would. Now again, might be stupid and not needed, but I sure don't think it can hurt?

My only question is Hydraulic or 80w90, I am thinking some Hydraulic oil, as I have read it works better in cold, and that is the season we are about to get. Open to anyone's opinion on that.

There are 2 things that so far I'm not in love with, but aren't too big an issue

1) My size 12/13 foot seems to get caught under the forward pedal, while using the reverse, has made stopping backing up tricky a few times, luckily all in open areas doing loader work. I might cut some of the rubber off the forward petal. Now I wear crocs or big knee high water boots usually when in it, and neither are skinny, but I'd like another inch of room.

2) The shifting getting sticky sometimes, I have learned to rock back and forth lightly until I can easily move the shifter, but I just wish I didn't have to do that and it would just shift smoothly like it should.

Thats it, I love it otherwise!

The owners manual for my 2538 specs GL4 for the oil in the front axle, which is harder to find than GL5. Don't know if it matters as there probably isn't any brass or synch rings in the axle, just giving you a heads up.

 

[bridge4]

The owners manual for my 2538 specs GL4 for the oil in the front axle, which is harder to find than GL5. Don't know if it matters as there probably isn't any brass or synch rings in the axle, just giving you a heads up.

I did notice that, do you just use the Mahindra brand, or do you have a preference for something else?

 

[mwayne]

I did notice that, do you just use the Mahindra brand, or do you have a preference for something else?

I used this:

CRC 24239 Multi-Purpose Gear Oil,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M8RYMC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Not sure how it compares price wise to Mahindra's branded product.

 

[RNeumann]

No need for anything special in the front end- the axle lives an easy life from a lubrication standpoint. You are correct on the types- the same hydraulic fluid you use in the transmission if you are a cold climate and gear oil in the warm climates.

My manual said to block the grill to maintain proper engine temps in the winter. I blocked the radiator and saw the temps climb too much. After that I figured out a way to block the radiator and it has maintained the correct temps while plowing snow etc in the winter.

 

[bridge4]

I used this:

CRC 24239 Multi-Purpose Gear Oil,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M8RYMC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Not sure how it compares price wise to Mahindra's branded product.

The price on that sure is right. Some of the other stuff I was looking at that can do GL-4 and GL-5 was way higher than that. I am guessing you've been happy with it, I might give it a try.

 

[bridge4]

No need for anything special in the front end- the axle lives an easy life from a lubrication standpoint. You are correct on the types- the same hydraulic fluid you use in the transmission if you are a cold climate and gear oil in the warm climates.

My manual said to block the grill to maintain proper engine temps in the winter. I blocked the radiator and saw the temps climb too much. After that I figured out a way to block the radiator and it has maintained the correct temps while plowing snow etc in the winter.

In my manual, it has the final drives and the front axle sort of together. See attached photo



So am I right to understand the final drive cases are the boxes right by the wheels people talk about making sure are filled up? But I also think they get the oil from and fill at the same point as the front axle?

So it lists the Hydraulic fluid and Gear oil as an option.

Or am I WAY off and these are two totally separate systems?

If they are 1 system basically, then I would go hydraulic fluid for the cold months with everything.



As far as plowing in the cold weather, I will have to test it out and see how the temperatures hold, might have to block some parts off if it can't keep warm on it's own.

Thanks in advance.

 

[RNeumann]

In my manual, it has the final drives and the front axle sort of together. See attached photo

View attachment 628380

So am I right to understand the final drive cases are the boxes right by the wheels people talk about making sure are filled up? But I also think they get the oil from and fill at the same point as the front axle?

So it lists the Hydraulic fluid and Gear oil as an option.

Or am I WAY off and these are two totally separate systems?

If they are 1 system basically, then I would go hydraulic fluid for the cold months with everything.



As far as plowing in the cold weather, I will have to test it out and see how the temperatures hold, might have to block some parts off if it can't keep warm on it's own.

Thanks in advance.

The final drives are on the axle ends and are tied to the axle fluid. The fluid flows down the axle tubes, across the ring and pinion gears and into the final drives. Their should be drain plugs (bolts?) on both final drives and the axle housing itself. Mine also has a plug that sets full level- this is in the final drive. I fill into the axle and stop when fluid comes out the plug mentioned above.

I get the diligence but this axle will be just fine with about anything. No need to fret over it!

 

[bridge4]

The final drives are on the axle ends and are tied to the axle fluid. The fluid flows down the axle tubes, across the ring and pinion gears and into the final drives. Their should be drain plugs (bolts?) on both final drives and the axle housing itself. Mine also has a plug that sets full level- this is in the final drive. I fill into the axle and stop when fluid comes out the plug mentioned above.

I get the diligence but this axle will be just fine with about anything. No need to fret over it!

Thanks for the explanation, I thought that was pretty much how it worked. I am just worried the first time I do anything like this and don't want to mess it up. I am going to go for some hydraulic fluid to replace it all.