RNeumann
Elite Member
Mine was done without it. Obviously it’s hard to add after the fact.
Bridge 4's 2638 HST CAB B.S. and ?? Thread
- Thread starter bridge4
- Start date
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mpallmerine
New member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2018
- Messages
- 3
- Tractor
- Mahindra 2638
filled to about 75% (valve stem at 12 o'clock, no weight on the tire) the R4's on my 2638 took exactly 40 gallons each of -20 windshield washer fluid.
OP
bridge4
Platinum Member
Guys are coming to fill them today, so I will see what they say, the chart says about 38 gallons. How do you like the tractor with the tires filled? Much difference?
mpallmerine
New member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2018
- Messages
- 3
- Tractor
- Mahindra 2638
It makes a huge difference when doing rear implement work like the box blade or a straight blade. I don't do any mowing or anything like that so I'm not sure how it is for that. I have my backhoe on 90% of the time so I'm used to the added weight and find it helpful.
OP
bridge4
Platinum Member
Tires got filled, guy who filled them said to wait overnight to let it settle some so the foam from pumping it in goes down.
Anyways, got a question. I have been having a real struggle getting the tractor to shift the last day or so, does anyone have any ideas why? I've tried changing rpm and that doesn't do anything, seems to struggle for a while then all of a sudden goes pretty smooth again. Maybe needs to warm up more?
Anyways, got a question. I have been having a real struggle getting the tractor to shift the last day or so, does anyone have any ideas why? I've tried changing rpm and that doesn't do anything, seems to struggle for a while then all of a sudden goes pretty smooth again. Maybe needs to warm up more?
mwayne
Gold Member
There's a thread on here regarding the difficult shifting. The other person detailed how some oil on the linkage as it entered the transmission housing made a big difference. I shot some WD-40 on mine and it seemed to help.
OP
bridge4
Platinum Member
Thanks for the tip, I'm a rookie with a lot of this stuff, do you know the best place to get at the linkage? I have some nice lube oil I would be happy to apply to it. I searched a bit and read a few ideas. Still need to take a look and see how to get at it. Can I just go from the top of the shifter down, or should I start under the tractor?
Appreciate any help!
mwayne
Gold Member
Here's the link to the thread referred to:
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/mahindra-owning-operating/412797-2538-will-not-shift-out.html
Apparently I'm suffering from a case of CRS, LOL. He actually put a wrench on his to help it.
OP
bridge4
Platinum Member
Thanks!
OP
bridge4
Platinum Member
Bridge 4's Mahindra 2638 HST CAB OIL CHANGE @ 17 Hours
Hey All, So instead of doing a whole new thread like I did the block heater, I will just post about the oil change here. While there are plenty of older threads and changing oil is sort of basic, there isn't much about the 2638 specifically, a lot of the stuff online is for the 2538. I know they are basically the same, but I figured the more stuff that pops up specific, the easier for newer owners to find when searching. There is also a bit of a trick to finding the fill cap and it isn't in the manual. I had to find a video online and watch it.
So, I have 17 hours almost to the dot on the 2638 and I wanted to change the oil for winter, hoping the more extreme temp oil would work in conjunction with the coolant heater, maybe it's overkill, maybe it isn't needed. But I did it.
Tools used:
New filter from dealer, part # is visible on the box I believe if you zoom
Screw driver
Impact with 7/8 socket
Oil filter wrench
Pretty simple stuff!
So first things first, get the engine warmed up so the oil drains more quickly, then drain the oil! The magnetic plugs had some goup on them, and once I wiped that off there was a fair amount of metallic sludge. Nothing absurd, but there was enough metal floating around in my oil that I am happy I did the change at 17 hours and not 50. I will change it again after winter snow season, which I am guessing will be the 50-60 hour mark depending on the season.
Then I took off the filter to replace the new one, looked pretty good in there! Don't forget to rub some old oil around the gasket! And don't over-tighten it either! I tightened by hand like it said until tight, then another 1/2 turn.
Then put back the magnetic oil plugs, and it's time to refill that oil!! But wait, where in the **** is the oil fill!! This is actually pretty ridiculous IMO from Mahindra here. I have never seen a car, lawn mower, truck etc... without a clearly labeled fill neck, usually with a yellow cap, but most of the time at least the oil symbol. Not here boys! The manual shows where, but not how to open, and if you are doing this the first time it can be confusing I think.
So, put the screwdriver underneath and slowly prop up from around it sorta like a paint can. Be careful to avoid the nipple and hose as you don't want to damage them. A good smack or two puts it back into place.
I used Shell Rotella T-6 full synthetic. Did I need full synthetic, don't know, been told probably not, especially with engine block heater installed. Like I said, I did it anyways and as I plan on using this primarily as a snow machine for the next 4-5 months, I'm not gonna worry about spending an extra 15 dollars over 2 gallons. I used almost the entire two gallons. I put in about 1.7 gallons, the dipstick was showing slightly over recommended levels. I ran the tractor for 5-10 minutes, let it cool, and the dipstick showed just over the minimum. I added a bit more and called it day. It now shows a little over half between the two recommended lines.
I also had some Motor Kote heavy duty lube hanging around I figured I'd try. I would say I got about 8oz in there of that, recommends 2oz per quart.
Ran the tractor after everything was back together to check for leaks etc.... everything ran well and engine sounded great. Coolant levels were good from last weeks change over as well.
:thumbsup:
Hey All, So instead of doing a whole new thread like I did the block heater, I will just post about the oil change here. While there are plenty of older threads and changing oil is sort of basic, there isn't much about the 2638 specifically, a lot of the stuff online is for the 2538. I know they are basically the same, but I figured the more stuff that pops up specific, the easier for newer owners to find when searching. There is also a bit of a trick to finding the fill cap and it isn't in the manual. I had to find a video online and watch it.
So, I have 17 hours almost to the dot on the 2638 and I wanted to change the oil for winter, hoping the more extreme temp oil would work in conjunction with the coolant heater, maybe it's overkill, maybe it isn't needed. But I did it.
Tools used:
New filter from dealer, part # is visible on the box I believe if you zoom
Screw driver
Impact with 7/8 socket
Oil filter wrench
Pretty simple stuff!
So first things first, get the engine warmed up so the oil drains more quickly, then drain the oil! The magnetic plugs had some goup on them, and once I wiped that off there was a fair amount of metallic sludge. Nothing absurd, but there was enough metal floating around in my oil that I am happy I did the change at 17 hours and not 50. I will change it again after winter snow season, which I am guessing will be the 50-60 hour mark depending on the season.
Then I took off the filter to replace the new one, looked pretty good in there! Don't forget to rub some old oil around the gasket! And don't over-tighten it either! I tightened by hand like it said until tight, then another 1/2 turn.
Then put back the magnetic oil plugs, and it's time to refill that oil!! But wait, where in the **** is the oil fill!! This is actually pretty ridiculous IMO from Mahindra here. I have never seen a car, lawn mower, truck etc... without a clearly labeled fill neck, usually with a yellow cap, but most of the time at least the oil symbol. Not here boys! The manual shows where, but not how to open, and if you are doing this the first time it can be confusing I think.
So, put the screwdriver underneath and slowly prop up from around it sorta like a paint can. Be careful to avoid the nipple and hose as you don't want to damage them. A good smack or two puts it back into place.
I used Shell Rotella T-6 full synthetic. Did I need full synthetic, don't know, been told probably not, especially with engine block heater installed. Like I said, I did it anyways and as I plan on using this primarily as a snow machine for the next 4-5 months, I'm not gonna worry about spending an extra 15 dollars over 2 gallons. I used almost the entire two gallons. I put in about 1.7 gallons, the dipstick was showing slightly over recommended levels. I ran the tractor for 5-10 minutes, let it cool, and the dipstick showed just over the minimum. I added a bit more and called it day. It now shows a little over half between the two recommended lines.
I also had some Motor Kote heavy duty lube hanging around I figured I'd try. I would say I got about 8oz in there of that, recommends 2oz per quart.
Ran the tractor after everything was back together to check for leaks etc.... everything ran well and engine sounded great. Coolant levels were good from last weeks change over as well.
:thumbsup:
