brazing a hydraulic line

[sd455dan]

Maybe not the right way but on the spare Rhino tractor I bought this summer, the power steering pressure line had fractured / split for about 1/2" at a low point (thinking water intrusion when it was parked for around 15 years).

I closed up the gap after a good cleaning and flushing then filled the line with Argon /co2 welded it up with regular old .030" ER70S-6 using the HTP MIG. No leaks so far. IIRC it was just a steel line ie. magnetic.

 

[SiteEngineer]

Brazing might hold for a bit, but it’s not a reliable fix for a pressurized hydraulic line. The heat can weaken the metal or make the leak worse later. If it’s at the fitting, the safest move is to replace or reflare that section. It’s pricey, but better than having the line burst under pressure.

 

[TMGT]

Brazing might hold for a bit, but it’s not a reliable fix for a pressurized hydraulic line. The heat can weaken the metal or make the leak worse later. If it’s at the fitting, the safest move is to replace or reflare that section. It’s pricey, but better than having the line burst under pressure.

Silver solder is common practice for attaching hydraulic fittings to tubing. Unless its a flare with a backer, most likely the original fitting with soldered to the tubing.

Sent from my SM-S921U using TractorByNet mobile app

 

[jwmorris]

it's a solid line with fittings on both ends that are welded to the line.

A welded joint that brakes isn't where things like silver solder work very well.

As you are trying to repair a butt type crack vs sweating a slip joint for bond, like this.

For a crack in a welded connection, I'd go over it again with silicon bronze rod and a TIG welder.

Good for sealing and a much stronger joint.

 

[John0829]

You should be ashamed of showing welds that look like that

Beautiful job