Branson 4820 problems

[ptsg]

One important tip about the PTO. The PTO lever has 3 positions, 540E - Neutral - 540. On these tractors, there is a spring actuated brake when the PTO is OFF.

This means that when you're trying to connect a PTO implement, like a brush cutter, you won't be able rotate the PTO shaft on the tractor by hand to help align the splines. So all you need to do is flip that PTO lever to Neutral and the shaft will then spin freely, which is an huge help to connect the implements.

 

[ptsg]

Another point about the PTO. On the PTO switch, you'll have 3 positions as well. Auto - OFF - Independent.

In the independent mode, the PTO will always spin.

In Auto mode, the PTO will cut off automatically once you fully raised the 3 pt. And then turn back on, once you lower the 3 pt. It will also cut off if you press the clutch on the Shuttle shift models, not on the HST ones.

Personally, I avoid using the Auto mode with high inertia implements, like a brush cutter or a flail mower. The reason is that every time it cuts off the PTO, the spring brake inside has to stop all that inertia still moving, which puts a lot of wear on the PTO brake. For low inertia implements, like a rototiller, post hole digger, etc, it works awesome and I use it all the time.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Op,

Sounds like you got it sorted out.

For my own uses, I only use the 540E setting when I'm mowing light brush and grass, like this one:

For heavy and thick mowing, I'm only using the "standard setting" 540:

This wasn't just 8 feet tall, it was also very thick growth, I couldn't see the ground, or even 1 foot in front of the bucket. You can't use the "E" setting here.

This was all done with a 6 foot cutter on 32 PTO hp.

Normally I'm burning less than 1 gallon per hour (37 engine hp), but for the *very* heavy stuff, it does go up to almost 2 gallons per hour.

 

[alaarp]

One important tip about the PTO. The PTO lever has 3 positions, 540E - Neutral - 540. On these tractors, there is a spring actuated brake when the PTO is OFF.

This means that when you're trying to connect a PTO implement, like a brush cutter, you won't be able rotate the PTO shaft on the tractor by hand to help align the splines. So all you need to do is flip that PTO lever to Neutral and the shaft will then spin freely, which is an huge help to connect the implements.

All good information. Learning something each time. Thanks.

 

[alaarp]

Op,

Sounds like you got it sorted out.

For my own uses, I only use the 540E setting when I'm mowing light brush and grass, like this one:

View attachment 763600

For heavy and thick mowing, I'm only using the "standard setting" 540:

View attachment 763601

This wasn't just 8 feet tall, it was also very thick growth, I couldn't see the ground, or even 1 foot in front of the bucket. You can't use the "E" setting here.

This was all done with a 6 foot cutter on 32 PTO hp.

Normally I'm burning less than 1 gallon per hour (37 engine hp), but for the *very* heavy stuff, it does go up to almost 2 gallons per hour.

I just thought I was mowing thick stuff. Wow! Good feedback. Thanks.

 

[alaarp]

All good information. Learning something each time. Thanks.

Another point about the PTO. On the PTO switch, you'll have 3 positions as well. Auto - OFF - Independent.

In the independent mode, the PTO will always spin.

In Auto mode, the PTO will cut off automatically once you fully raised the 3 pt. And then turn back on, once you lower the 3 pt. It will also cut off if you press the clutch on the Shuttle shift models, not on the HST ones.

Personally, I avoid using the Auto mode with high inertia implements, like a brush cutter or a flail mower. The reason is that every time it cuts off the PTO, the spring brake inside has to stop all that inertia still moving, which puts a lot of wear on the PTO brake. For low inertia implements, like a rototiller, post hole digger, etc, it works awesome and I use it all the time.

I will be printing some of these posts out for future reference. You guys make a big difference. Thanks

 

[alaarp]

Another point about the PTO. On the PTO switch, you'll have 3 positions as well. Auto - OFF - Independent.

In the independent mode, the PTO will always spin.

In Auto mode, the PTO will cut off automatically once you fully raised the 3 pt. And then turn back on, once you lower the 3 pt. It will also cut off if you press the clutch on the Shuttle shift models, not on the HST ones.

Personally, I avoid using the Auto mode with high inertia implements, like a brush cutter or a flail mower. The reason is that every time it cuts off the PTO, the spring brake inside has to stop all that inertia still moving, which puts a lot of wear on the PTO brake. For low inertia implements, like a rototiller, post hole digger, etc, it works awesome and I use it all the time.

Mine is a HST, but good to know. Thanks.

 

[alaarp]

One important tip about the PTO. The PTO lever has 3 positions, 540E - Neutral - 540. On these tractors, there is a spring actuated brake when the PTO is OFF.

This means that when you're trying to connect a PTO implement, like a brush cutter, you won't be able rotate the PTO shaft on the tractor by hand to help align the splines. So all you need to do is flip that PTO lever to Neutral and the shaft will then spin freely, which is an huge help to connect the implements.

Did not know this. Thanks.

 

[alaarp]

The E in 540E means "Eco". Basically you achieve the 540 RPMs at the PTO with less engine RPM, typically around 1800 RPM. It will use a lot less fuel as well. Compared to the regular 540, where the engine has to be at around 2500 RPM.

It's mostly used on light to medium duty work, like mowing mostly grass, not too tall. Or if you don't mind going a bit slower, it can do some heavy work as well.

I run most of PTO implements in 540E. I get about 8 to 9 hours on a full tank in 540 or 12 to 13 hours on a full tank in 540E.

Very good to know. The manual was skimpy on info such as this. Big help! Thanks.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Another point about the PTO. On the PTO switch, you'll have 3 positions as well. Auto - OFF - Independent.

In the independent mode, the PTO will always spin.

In Auto mode, the PTO will cut off automatically once you fully raised the 3 pt. And then turn back on, once you lower the 3 pt. It will also cut off if you press the clutch on the Shuttle shift models, not on the HST ones.

Personally, I avoid using the Auto mode with high inertia implements, like a brush cutter or a flail mower. The reason is that every time it cuts off the PTO, the spring brake inside has to stop all that inertia still moving, which puts a lot of wear on the PTO brake. For low inertia implements, like a rototiller, post hole digger, etc, it works awesome and I use it all the time.

I use an ORC on all our tractors to make life easy on the internal PTO brake.

 

[alaarp]

I use an ORC on all our tractors to make life easy on the internal PTO brake.

More good information. I am learning. Thanks.

 

[alaarp]

I will add, along with the hydraulic deadheading suggestions, check the parking brake. Make sure it's off and not stuck on or something. That's burning waaaay too much fuel for just a dead heading hydraulic system.

Well, I did adjust the knob below the seat and the rear lift is working again. Operator error! But I am unclear on the hydraulic deadheading, not knowing what that means. I have run old tractors without hydraulics for years but hydraulics are new to me and I am still learning. Please explain what you were talking about because I still have a reduced power issue and you may have the answer.

 

[alaarp]

I would also check that your PTO is not in "Economy" mode. That can cause it to bog down in heavy grass.

It WAS in economy mode and this change helped but I still am having power issues. Thanks for the good advice.

 

[K5lwq]

It WAS in economy mode and this change helped but I still am having power issues. Thanks for the good advice.

Could you be clearer about reduced power? Before it was struggling with a 4’ mower. Is that still the case?

The hydraulic system in your tractor is know as open center system. This means the hydraulic pump pumps a constant amount of fluid through the system as long as the engine is running. As long as you are not moving a control valve like to raise or curl the loader, the fluid flows through the valve and back to the transmission known as the tank.

As you move a control valve, like raising the loader, the fluid is sent to the cylinder and pressure builds. As the pressure increases it will lift the loader.

If the cylinder on the loader is fully extended or if you open a valve like the remote with no cylinder, the pressure builds quickly to the point the pressure relief valve kicks open to provide a path for the oil to flow and protect the pump. This is hard on the pump as it is operating at near the pressure limit of the pump. We consider this as dead heading the pump. If it was not for the relief valve, hoses and lines would split and the pump likely would come apart under the high pressure.

This also would cause a loss in power because the pump is working at it’s max output. Also the hydraulic fluid temperature would rise as well.

Everything I described is a separate system from your HTS transmission. HTS uses the same fluid but has another pump that is controlled differently than the main hydraulic pump.

 

[K5lwq]

Now another question I have. You have three maybe 4 ranges for you HTS drive. If you have it in the higher range, the tractor will move faster with the pedal pressed all the way down but will require more power from the engine to do so. This could make it appear to have less power doing certain things.

Also many people think of the HST pedal like a gas pedal of a car. When the feel the tractor slow from lack of power, like climbing a hill, they push harder on the pedal. The proper thing to do would be press less on the pedal so the engine is not working as hard to move the tractor. Of course you also could pick a lower range to operate in as well.

I hope this helps but I suggest you get with your dealer for more training and to make sure there is nothing wrong with the tractor.

 

[ericm979]

Also many people think of the HST pedal like a gas pedal of a car. When the feel the tractor slow from lack of power, like climbing a hill, they push harder on the pedal. The proper thing to do would be press less on the pedal so the engine is not working as hard to move the tractor. Of course you also could pick a lower range to operate in as well.

It's especially confusing on newer tractors which link the throttle to the HST pedal. Then the pedal is like the gas pedal in a car, and yet it's still also not like it at all.

Branson's system is a simple cable, unlike the computer controlled system on the Kubota Grand Ls. The amount of throttle movement is fixed relative to the HST pedal even though the higher ranges need more power. On my 3725 with three ranges, in low range the auto throttle works pretty well even on moderate slopes. In middle range which is what I use 95% of the time the auto throttle is sufficient on level ground but not if I'm doing any pulling or going up a moderately steep slope (15 degrees or more). In high range forget it, you need to use the hand throttle just to keep it from stalling on level ground.

If I'm doing PTO work or pulling anything heavy or using the loader or grapple I bump up the rpms with the hand throttle. For most PTO work I set the rpms to make the PTO turn 540, except for the forestry winch where that's a little faster than I want and I don't need much power.

 

[alaarp]

Could you be clearer about reduced power? Before it was struggling with a 4’ mower. Is that still the case?

The hydraulic system in your tractor is know as open center system. This means the hydraulic pump pumps a constant amount of fluid through the system as long as the engine is running. As long as you are not moving a control valve like to raise or curl the loader, the fluid flows through the valve and back to the transmission known as the tank.

As you move a control valve, like raising the loader, the fluid is sent to the cylinder and pressure builds. As the pressure increases it will lift the loader.

If the cylinder on the loader is fully extended or if you open a valve like the remote with no cylinder, the pressure builds quickly to the point the pressure relief valve kicks open to provide a path for the oil to flow and protect the pump. This is hard on the pump as it is operating at near the pressure limit of the pump. We consider this as dead heading the pump. If it was not for the relief valve, hoses and lines would split and the pump likely would come apart under the high pressure.

This also would cause a loss in power because the pump is working at it’s max output. Also the hydraulic fluid temperature would rise as well.

Everything I described is a separate system from your HTS transmission. HTS uses the same fluid but has another pump that is controlled differently than the main hydraulic pump.

Man, this is good stuff. Yes, it still is pulling the 4' mower. I will take it to the dealer and request a check of the hydraulic system. Thanks much!