Branson 3510i suddenly stops.

[Brucester]

I have a 3510i. Bought it new almost 11 yrs ago. It's been my self employment ever since. This is the third time it's stopped on me. Very frustrating the first time.. So now I know to open the hood and remove the left engine cover and wiggle this plug. Well now it's not even making connection. I have replaced the factory fuel pump with an electric one.. so if the culprit wire makes a connection, I hear it. Well.. Without have the wiring schematic.. I'm guessing this large white wire is the problem. I don't know how to remove the metal plug\spade from the main plug so I can solder it and hope it fixes the intermittent issue.

 

[DavesTractor]

I'm not sure how those spades clip into the plastic connector. Generally if you have good eyes and good light and clean up the connector you can find a tab that is down inside the connector that is attached to the metal wire end connector. Technically they make special tools to depress the "hidden" tab and the wire slides right out. But without that tool, you can sometimes use a paper clip to release the tab. I know that isn't much help, you probably know all of that already.

You could do a temporary fix to make sure that your white wire is the issue. Jump a wire around the connector. If that works, you can mess with the connector or just bypass it for that one wire.

 

[DavesTractor]

If that does not solve your issue, you might clarify the problem and you will get suggestions on possible other things to look at. If it stops suddenly, I'd suspect the fuel shutoff is not allowing fuel into the pump. If it stops more slowly, as if you are running low and almost out of fuel, it could be the fuel lift pump....and so forth.

 

[Brucester]

Hey there.. I was living in Sacramento and came up to Dave's tractor and bought a new auger with the downforce kit. I haven't been real happy with it.. It pushes so hard it wears out the soft metal cutting teeth adfter a dozen holes. I need a real nice ROCK BIT for it.

So.. back to the main subject.. I went to an auto repair shop this morning and showed them the problem. He pulled both sides of the white wire and put a bullet connector on it. A 5 minute fix. Thanx for the reply "Dave". Speaking of Branson.. I was passing through Grants PAss today and saw that someone is selling Branson's there.

Make an Appointment..? Wow..I wonder if I can order parts through them..? I did buy mine from diggerz almost 11 yrs ago. 2700+ hrs on it..

 

[Brucester]

Problem is fixed.. and speaking of fuel. My fuel gauge has been way off for a couple of years. Is the sensor easy to replace on it..? Which tank is it hiding in..?


Thanx..

 

[DavesTractor]

Hey there.. I was living in Sacramento and came up to Dave's tractor and bought a new auger with the downforce kit. I haven't been real happy with it.. It pushes so hard it wears out the soft metal cutting teeth adfter a dozen holes. I need a real nice ROCK BIT for it.

So.. back to the main subject.. I went to an auto repair shop this morning and showed them the problem. He pulled both sides of the white wire and put a bullet connector on it. A 5 minute fix. Thanx for the reply "Dave". Speaking of Branson.. I was passing through Grants PAss today and saw that someone is selling Branson's there.

View attachment 548269 Make an Appointment..? Wow..I wonder if I can order parts through them..? I did buy mine from diggerz almost 11 yrs ago. 2700+ hrs on it..

Maybe we need to give you less down pressure.

We generally carry the carbide tips for the Pengo augers. In tough abrasive stuff they do last longer, but they can chip or break. Or go with a real deal rock bit, but expect to pay a hefty price for such a bit.

 

[Coyote machine]

Problem is fixed.. and speaking of fuel. My fuel gauge has been way off for a couple of years. Is the sensor easy to replace on it..? Which tank is it hiding in..?


Thanx..

So, what was the problem - the white wire? If so I'd wrap the entire connector with some landscape fabric or hydraulic hose connector material and then cable tie on either side to keep dust/dirt out - AFTER cleaning the entire connector with 'Letra cleaner or similar and blowing out all the crap that's already in it with compressed air.

The fuel sender is hiding in the tank with the wires on top, most likely?!:thumbsup:

 

[Brucester]

Perhaps. I'd like to put a pressure gauge on it and then adjust it accordingly. I'd rather invest into the best rock bit I can. Something built to last. $500..?

 

[Brucester]

Yep.. a bullet connector was installed to keep them together. Then it was heat shrink wrapped and sealed.

It's a permanent fix to a temporary solution.

\

 

[DavesTractor]

Perhaps. I'd like to put a pressure gauge on it and then adjust it accordingly. I'd rather invest into the best rock bit I can. Something built to last. $500..?

I was just giving you a bit of a hard time about reducing pressure. Because if you want less pressure, you can give it less or apply the pressure more slowly with the spool valve. Drive it down into the soil more slowly.

I'm far from an expert on soil types, but I know they vary widely. Some clay, some loam, some sandy and abrasive, some gravelly, some with big rocks in tight soil, some with big rocks in loose soil....and on and on. On an auger, there are variations in the thickness of the main tube, the thickness of the flighting and the type of tip. If the auger is holding up well to commercial use, but it is just the tips wearing quickly, I'd try some hardened or carbide tips. Some soil types are just rough on auger tips, but it is worth the effort to try to find what works best in your area considering the cost of tip replacement and the time needed to do it. A real deal rock bit will start north of $1000 and may have replaceable bullet teeth like on a trencher chain. Generally they are hexagonal shank and require a good bit of down pressure.

I bet there are some guys on this forum that know a ton more about commercial or heady duty auger work than I do. We do mostly farm type augers and light construction. In any event, you must charge for the bit wear and tear on every hole you dig. Just like a guy doing trenching. Folks don't normally ask you to dig a 12" deep trench in loam. They want a 3' deep trench in rocks!

 

[Brucester]

LOL.. funny guy. I have tried to adjust it, but a gauge is the only way to know for sure. Auger holding up well.. Hmm..1st picture is inside your shop. 1st job I did with it, it cracked. It wasn't worth a 3 hr drive up and to get it welded or replaced and then 3 hrs back.









So it's doing ok since..

 

[Cougsfan]

What does that black thing on top of your auger do (with what looks like a hydraulic cylinder on it)?

 

[DavesTractor]

LOL.. funny guy. I have tried to adjust it, but a gauge is the only way to know for sure. Auger holding up well.. Hmm..1st picture is inside your shop. 1st job I did with it, it cracked. It wasn't worth a 3 hr drive up and to get it welded or replaced and then 3 hrs back.

View attachment 548491

So it's doing ok since..

That's a shame that factory weld came loose. I agree it would not be worth driving 6 hours to have a half hour of welding done. The down force kit does apply quite a bit of force. But you don't have to use all the force all the time. You just need enough push to keep the bit doing it's job. But you know that. That weld should not have done that in any event. I'm sorry you have had this problem.

 

[scatterlandsfarms]

Issues happen welds break , part of life sounds to me like Dave does best he can with customer service , I wish he was my dealer

 

[Brucester]

What does that black thing on top of your auger do (with what looks like a hydraulic cylinder on it)?

It's a hydraulic cylinder. It's for putting up to 800 lbs of downforce on the auger tip.. Bought it from Dave's Tractor.

 

[Cougsfan]

It's a hydraulic cylinder. It's for putting up to 800 lbs of downforce on the auger tip.. Bought it from Dave's Tractor.

Ok. Never seen that before. Sounds like a neat feature. Sure explains why you wear out auger tips while mine have lasted for for years and years, even going through some fairly rocky ground. But I'll bet you can drill a post hole a lot quicker than I can in rocky ground. Getting that frame re-welded should be pretty easy to do.

Reminds me of when my neighbor's teen-aged son got carried away and screwed (just like a sheet metal screw) their 3 point auger into clean dirt all the way to the gear box. He had to dig the auger out by hand with a shovel, because the three point couldn't lift it and the pto doesn't reverse. Do you have to be careful not to do that with power assist?.

 

[DavesTractor]

Ok. Never seen that before. Sounds like a neat feature. Sure explains why you wear out auger tips while mine have lasted for for years and years, even going through some fairly rocky ground. But I'll bet you can drill a post hole a lot quicker than I can in rocky ground. Getting that frame re-welded should be pretty easy to do.

Reminds me of when my neighbor's teen-aged son got carried away and screwed (just like a sheet metal screw) their 3 point auger into clean dirt all the way to the gear box. He had to dig the auger out by hand with a shovel, because the three point couldn't lift it and the pto doesn't reverse. Do you have to be careful not to do that with power assist?.

A front mount hydraulic auger is a cool way to go. You get down pressure and you can reverse the auger. Expensive of course.

And yes, hydraulically forcing an auger into reluctant earth does wear tips fast. But it gets the job done. A lot of tips can be reversed to put the sharp edge out again and that helps get a little more life out of them. The other tips or cutting edges wear much faster than the inner ones. If you continue on with bad tips and force the auger into the ground, eventually the fighting gets worn down and the auger becomes sort of cone shaped, with the wide part at the top. Once that happens to much of a degree, the flighting needs rebuilt or the auger replaced. We see that on commercial augers where guys are running them on an excavator or skid-steer where they have a bunch of flow and down pressure....and multiple users that don't actually pay for the broken parts!

 

[Brucester]

Ok. Never seen that before. Sounds like a neat feature. Sure explains why you wear out auger tips while mine have lasted for for years and years, even going through some fairly rocky ground. But I'll bet you can drill a post hole a lot quicker than I can in rocky ground. Getting that frame re-welded should be pretty easy to do.

Reminds me of when my neighbor's teen-aged son got carried away and screwed (just like a sheet metal screw) their 3 point auger into clean dirt all the way to the gear box. He had to dig the auger out by hand with a shovel, because the three point couldn't lift it and the pto doesn't reverse. Do you have to be careful not to do that with power assist?.

That's happened to me once.. It was stuck in the hole. I removed the bolt holding the auger on.. and got the tractor turned around and was yanking on it hard with a chain and the front loader. Reverse would have been nice.

A front mount hydraulic auger is a cool way to go. You get down pressure and you can reverse the auger. Expensive of course.

And yes, hydraulically forcing an auger into reluctant earth does wear tips fast. But it gets the job done. A lot of tips can be reversed to put the sharp edge out again and that helps get a little more life out of them. The other tips or cutting edges wear much faster than the inner ones. If you continue on with bad tips and force the auger into the ground, eventually the fighting gets worn down and the auger becomes sort of cone shaped, with the wide part at the top. Once that happens to much of a degree, the flighting needs rebuilt or the auger replaced. We see that on commercial augers where guys are running them on an excavator or skid-steer where they have a bunch of flow and down pressure....and multiple users that don't actually pay for the broken parts!

Yep.. it's tough on the tip and cutting edges, but gets it done. I was digging a trench around the outside of a big covered horse arena last year. and when I couldn't dig, I recruited some help. Hard pan isn't fun..

Good days and bad..
View attachment 549351

View attachment 549352

 

[Brucester]

Ok. Never seen that before. Sounds like a neat feature. Sure explains why you wear out auger tips while mine have lasted for for years and years, even going through some fairly rocky ground. But I'll bet you can drill a post hole a lot quicker than I can in rocky ground. Getting that frame re-welded should be pretty easy to do.

Reminds me of when my neighbor's teen-aged son got carried away and screwed (just like a sheet metal screw) their 3 point auger into clean dirt all the way to the gear box. He had to dig the auger out by hand with a shovel, because the three point couldn't lift it and the pto doesn't reverse. Do you have to be careful not to do that with power assist?.

That's happened to me once.. It was stuck in the hole. I removed the bolt holding the auger on.. and got the tractor turned around and was yanking on it hard with a chain and the front loader. Reverse would have been nice.

A front mount hydraulic auger is a cool way to go. You get down pressure and you can reverse the auger. Expensive of course.

And yes, hydraulically forcing an auger into reluctant earth does wear tips fast. But it gets the job done. A lot of tips can be reversed to put the sharp edge out again and that helps get a little more life out of them. The other tips or cutting edges wear much faster than the inner ones. If you continue on with bad tips and force the auger into the ground, eventually the fighting gets worn down and the auger becomes sort of cone shaped, with the wide part at the top. Once that happens to much of a degree, the flighting needs rebuilt or the auger replaced. We see that on commercial augers where guys are running them on an excavator or skid-steer where they have a bunch of flow and down pressure....and multiple users that don't actually pay for the broken parts!

Yep.. it's tough on the tip and cutting edges, but gets it done. I was digging a trench around the outside of a big covered horse arena last year. and when I couldn't dig, I recruited some help. Hard pan isn't fun..

Good days and bad..

 

[Davebuckholts]

I have a 3510i. Bought it new almost 11 yrs ago. It's been my self employment ever since. This is the third time it's stopped on me. Very frustrating the first time.. So now I know to open the hood and remove the left engine cover and wiggle this plug. Well now it's not even making connection. I have replaced the factory fuel pump with an electric one.. so if the culprit wire makes a connection, I hear it. Well.. Without have the wiring schematic.. I'm guessing this large white wire is the problem. I don't know how to remove the metal plug\spade from the main plug so I can solder it and hope it fixes the intermittent issue.

View attachment 548134 View attachment 548133

So my 3510i just stopped cranking the other day. 226 hrs on the tractor. I checked the neutral safety switch, the clutch safety switch, and key switch.
Then I'm reading these forums to maybe find a wiring diagram and read this tidbit....
I go out to my tractor, jiggle this wire, and it cranks!
What is this wire connecting??