Brake overhaul

[Gary Sweat]

Make sure you check the Seal Collar. Since you have the Axel out I would replace them. When I had to replace one of my Axel Seals the Collar wasn't in bad shape but did have a few pits in it. It still does not leak but will show a Small oil drip on the tire when it sits. I wasn't in any physical shape to be doing repairs on it at the time and it was only one Axel so if it did leak I would of done the same as you and pulled it all down.

By the way since the 1900 is the about same as the 2000 I'm surprised nobody told you of the (Wet brake Setup) I believe Winston 1 awhile back on Hoye Tech Support stated he has them. and few of Fredricks 2000's has them also...

Carey

Finally got the axle hub off the shaft. Had to use a wheel puller, lots of penetrating fluid and a hammer. Took about a half hour of tightening and tapping on the hub to break it loose. Yep, the seal collar was corroded as bad as the brake collar. Would have been a waist of a seal to just put in a new one without changing the collar. It would have just chewed it up over time. Now I have to get the collar unstuck from the axle.

Is there any products out that you can coat everything exposed to keep them from rusting up again? Maybe something like what the coating you see on equipment shipped from overseas? It's a pain to get off but it stops them from corroding.

 

[careyo63]

Yeap mine was as bad if not worse. So far so good on mine. A drip or two every now and then . The Collar looked like it would definatly be a Royal PITA. to get off on the tractor. I'll be watching to hear what all you had to go through to get it off and replace them.

Carey

 

[Gary Sweat]

Had to use the press to get the collar and bearing out. I tried to use pliers and tap the collar but it wouldn't budge. I cut a 13" piece of 2 1/4" pipe to fit down into the axle housing to press out the bearing and seal collar. Pretty easy if you have a press but would be a real pain if it was still on the tractor. Would probably have to use a torch to heat the seal collar to break the rust bond.

The new bearing is sealed (like the brake outer bearing) but the old was open. Also, the new seal collar is coated. Guess they figured out eventually the collars will corrode and destroy the seal.

Also, the axles on this tractor are really thick. I doubt a 20hp engine will ever be able to snap one.

 

[clemsonfor]

Is there any products out that you can coat everything exposed to keep them from rusting up again? Maybe something like what the coating you see on equipment shipped from overseas? It's a pain to get off but it stops them from corroding.

maybe that Fluid Film stuff that there talking about in the Oil,fuel,lube forum. The topic is about a year old, i think snow plow guys use it on the plows to keep ice buildup down and others spray it on the bottom of thier trucks to keep the rust down. all i know is from what i have picked up from reading about it, i dont really know anything about it. I assume i may be some type of light oil?

 

[bowinelk]

Gee Gary, Where do you guys get your parts so quick from? I'm always waiting 7 to 10 days. It makes all my repairs drag out.

 

[Gary Sweat]

Gee Gary, Where do you guys get your parts so quick from? I'm always waiting 7 to 10 days. It makes all my repairs drag out.

I get mine from Hoye since they are in Texas and closest to me. Just takes a couple of days to get. They do a good job of filling the order quickly and are very helpful on the phone. Unfortunately not all of the parts listed on the web site are the correct part so sometimes you will get parts that won't work or have to be modified. Overall though, they are a good source for parts.

 

[bowinelk]

Well thats where I go through. Guess I am just farther away. I found that out about making the parts fit:laughing: but so far they are good to deal with and prices are not too bad.

 

[Gary Sweat]

Well thats where I go through. Guess I am just farther away. I found that out about making the parts fit:laughing: but so far they are good to deal with and prices are not too bad.

yea, your problem is how long it takes UPS to deliver. I once ordered some car engine parts from Dallas (3.5 hour drive) and it took 10 days to get them. Watched the tracking and they went to Omaha, then to two cities in Kansas, then to Missouri before it got to me. Sometimes I wonder how they make money on shipping that way

 

[Gary Sweat]

Here is possibly a good reason to do a periodic tear down of some parts on a tractor to see how they look. Granted, not everything needs inspected by taking it apart but for some things it can save having to do a lot more work and money.

Something got into the outer seal on the left axle and started shredding it. Given enough time it would likely have worked its way into the inner seal and then the bearing. All that stringy stuff is pieces of the seal. I won't know till I tear it apart if there is more damage. I did notice a small amount of wet dust starting to show up around the hub but thought it was just normal minor leakage from age.

 

[clemsonfor]

usually takes 4 days or less to get my parts

 

[Gary Sweat]

The left brake is worse than the right. This time, I'm leaving out the drain plug in the bottom of the housing so the water can drain out. I don't plan on driving it in a rice field and even if water does get in, it's got a way out.

 

[Gary Sweat]

I'm going to do a little experiment with the brake and axle seals. The right side was completely torn down, cleaned and new bearings and seals put in. For the left side I'm going to take the shorter route and just clean the best I can and replace the seals on both axle and brake.

Time will tell if it is worth the effort to overhaul or just patch it up and keep using.

 

[Gary Sweat]

Ok, I know this should be a simple thing but it's got me stumped. The replacement brake rod is longer than the original. I need to shrink it down and still have adjustment room.

I thought it would be as simple as shortening the barrel and take off some threads but that didn't work. Can't get it short enough and still have adjustment room. Then I thought I could just run the threads farther up the shaft and cut some off the ends. Problem is the shaft diameter is larger than the die to cut matching barrel threads. Ok, I'll just put it in the lathe and spin it down. Nope, the little 90 degree bend won't fin inside my lathe spindle.

This was supposed to be a replacement part but as I have found out lately not all aftermarket parts fit without modification. This is the third part I've had to rework to get it to fit.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to adjust it down to the right length?

 

[careyo63]

Cut a section out. Use the Old Adj. NUT and thread the shaft or weld it back together with the Nut for reinforcement . Wrong parts PMO.also but remember you have a somewhat Rare production Tractor having to use different parts to make it work.

Carey

 

[Gary Sweat]

Cut a section out. Use the Old Adj. NUT and thread the shaft or weld it back together with the Nut for reinforcement . Wrong parts PMO.also but remember you have a somewhat Rare production Tractor having to use different parts to make it work.

Carey

Thanks, cutting and welding may be the way I have to go. I tried running a die down the threads but found the new shaft diameter is too large for the die to cut. They apparently cut the shaft down some before threading. In order to get the shaft to fit in my lathe I would have to cut the bent end off anyway.

I know the 1900 is a rare model but when they show the part for that model they should at least take the time to make sure it works or put a statement that you may have to modify it.

 

[winston1]

Cut the end off, re bend, drill new pin hole.

 

[Car Doc]

Just an observation from looking at the pic, if its not the left handed thread side the good end on the other rod that's not broke may just thread into your new rod.

 

[Gary Sweat]

Cut the end off, re bend, drill new pin hole.

In other words, quit complaining and make it work

It was the bending I was hoping to avoid. I guess a 12 ton press will bend it. My torch is messed up right now so I can't heat it. Hopefully cold bending won't break it first. If it does, it's going to wind up with an ugly weld:laughing:

 

[California]

The new barrel is longer. Could you use the old barrel with the new rods?

Or is the old rod slender enough to cut more threads, then add the new (longer) barrel?

 

[careyo63]

Hope he's not on the Time Clock :laughing: Its been almost 4hrs. Gary so let us know just how long it took you to Rig It:laughing: