Boxblade Usefulness Survey

[TresCrows]

Yeah, that is how I made a small trail also.
Glen, dude!, boxblades work just fine, your question/problem/proposition is interesting but the assertion that boxblades are useless is unfounded. The reason the boxblade is so mysterious to folks is a function of it's versatility because the only other implement that has such a wide range of uses to which it can be put is the FEL. Does everyone use their FEL in the same manner--some use it for snow removal--others claim it does not do a good job and prefer a blade or blower--for example so then does this mean the FEL is not useful? NO. The boxblade is multi talented and it is it's versatility that confuses people as to what it is intended to be it's purpose. The boxblades purpose is anything you want it to do --virtually everything because it is a multi purpose tool.
I do not agree on getting a 800 lbs box for a B series--I do not agree get the biggest and heaviest--in fact--I must dissagree with the entire assertion. Your box should match your tractor. A giant box on a tiny 2910 (yep the 2910 is a tiny, bitsy machine as tractors go--only very slightly less bitsy than a BX or 2410)) is not going to be anything but an anchor. That also I think is one of the reasons people do not get good use from their box--it is too big --yep--it is to big for their tractor and therefore cannot be useful for the full range of purposes to which the box is suited. The box should match the tractor and for some operations lighter is better. If the box stops the tractor in it's tracks as soon as it loads up it is to big and will not be useful for all boxblade suitable tasks!
Glen, you may not need a boxblade, some people do not need 4WD or a FEL. I for one need'em.
Heck, the box blade even works as a poor mans tiller/harrow.
The box rocks!!!!!
J

 

[jimgerken]

In response to the size of the box compared to the tractor, I agree that there must be some optimum ratio. When I was farming actively, I purchased a tillage tool for field work (I think I told this story already somewhere), that was sized for a range of horsepower. It listed our largest tractor as the smallest one that should be used. The tool was a dissapointment to use because we were underpowered.
On the www.laserleveling.com web page (some FUN reading and dreaming), it recommends 5 HP per foot of box blade width. When I think about this, it may not be that simple, because at some point the formula diverges, example: imagine having a 100 HP tractor, would you put a 20 foot box behind it? No of course. I bet that based on the combined experience of this TBN group, and with a little creative attachment swapping, we could get the formula nailed down pretty close. I imagine it would factor both HP and tractor weight.

 

[RAllen]

Let me re-phrase my comment about boxblades. "Buy the heaviest box your tractor can handle" Common sense rules here. My meaning was simply get the heaviest your tractor can handle. Additionally, you can get heavy duty boxblades in the smaller widths. That was my meaning.

A heavy duty NARROW width boxblade will work far better and last longer than the light duty models of the same width. This is one time I think heavy duty is the only way no matter how much you THINK you will use the boxblade. Believe me, you will find more uses than you can imagine.

Rick

 

[rdln]

Yes, In michigan they are useful and anywhere that you can have clean fill delivered and needs to be spread smoothly.

 

[Timd]

Richard -

So what boxblade are you using on your 2910? I need to
clear some paths through the woods this spring. I currently
have B2910 with FEL and Woods MD160 rotary cutter, thinking
of adding T&T and a boxblade to the arsenal.

Timd

 

[RAllen]

Timd

I now have a Landpride 25 Boxblade 60" length W/O the hinged rear blade. I first got a Series 15 but traded it in for the more beefy 25 series. Actually, the 15 series is stronger than most of the lower priced boxblades but a boxblade takes alot of pounding and the 25 series is heavier.

Rick

 

[John Weaver]

I would be interested in your opinions on who makes the best boxblade. I have a Howse and an "All American" (cheep model). There are some features I like and dislike on both. Weight, ease of adjusting rip teeth, etc.

 

[nicktime]

I only recently purchased my TC33D with FEL and a heavy Woods 6' boxblade, so I only have a few hours on my machine. The major reason for getting the boxblade was what I had planned over the next two years. I started putting in a driveway out to my pole barn. I needed to strip the topsoil and backfill with sand and gravel. Unfortunately, I now need to address some major drainage issues before I can continue. So far, the boxblade was very valuable for doing the work to this point. In addition, the other major project that I have for this spring/summer is the excavation of a large pond (no, I'm hiring that part out) and then the finish landscaping of over 3 acres.

Overall, I would have to say, as many others have, that getting a boxblade, as is the same for any implement, one has to first identify potential needs and uses, then determine what implement(s) will work. To just buy a boxblade without fully looking at how you are to use it, could be a large waste. In my own case, even with a boxblade, I will most likely get a plain backblade in the near future. The reason for this is that it appears to be a much better way to deal with cutting in ditches, which I have a lot to do.

I know that I'm speaking from relatively little seat time, but for me, I could have maybe gotten away without a boxblade, but it wouldn't have been as easy. Just my thoughts.

 

[John_Mc]

Nicktime:

What model Woods Boxblade did you get? I've also got a TC33D, and bought a 6 ft Woods boxblade (model GB72). It's one of the lighter duty Woods models, but seems more heavily-constructed than a lot of the other "medium-duty" boxblades I looked at (some were tin cans compared to the Woods unit). It weights bit under 600#, and is rated for up to 45 HP tractors, so I figured I was safe.

I've cleared a bunch of trails (and hit a few hidden stumps while I was at it), put in a 250 ft long drainage swale, did some monor re-grading, and done maintenance on close to 1000 ft of gravel driveway/road. So far I've been very happy with it, and have had no problems. Added hydraulic Top-'n-Tilt about half way through these jobs... made a BIG difference in how quickly it went, and in the final quality (before the hydraulic additions, I was much more likely to say "good enough" and call it quits. Now that I don't have to climb up and down to adjust things as much, I can hold out for better results.)

John

 

[glennmac]

Well, I'm pleased to find out that, under the TresCrows Utility Theorum, my posts here are not confusing; it's just that, like a boxblade, I must be multi-talented. Of my dubious talents, boxblading is not one of them. I have never used one. I merely read about them. They are near-Satanic devices. People are suckered into buying them. Usually cheap ones. Then they have trouble using them. Then they are suckered into spending thousands of dollars and/or hours buying or building tiptop-and-tilt systems. These things are also had to operate, and are also of dubious utility (especially tilt). It is easier to grade my driveway by backdragging my bucket and using a hand rake than to go through all that boxblade pain. Speaking of FELs, my FEL considers it an insult to be compared to a boxblade. No one is confused about the utility of, or how to use, a FEL. Finally, and all seriousness aside, one must not confuse the width of a boxblade with its weight. Indeed, you should size the width to the tractor. But, within a given width, there are boxblades of many different weights. A 2910 can easily lift an 800 lb. boxblade. Larger tractors can easily lift the 1000-1200 lb ones. Howse is low end. Gannon is THE high end. A notch down from Gannon is Gill. Both of those are owned by Woods, so they should all be in the Woods brochures. Also consider the less-Satanic rollover boxblades from Woods/Gill and Bushhog, among others. These are normally heavier than normal boxes of the same width. Keep the reports coming in.

 

[TresCrows]

You may not be confused but I am, first you ask a question and then you make an assertion--are boxblades generally useful was the question-- then that was followed by an assertion--boxblades are useless! Okkkkkkkk, if you say so.
I don't have top and tilt, I will stick buy my assertion that the box should match the tractor in both weight and width and even moldboard height to be truely useful.
Actually the boxblade is very easy to use and rather self explanatory, it's functions becoming apparent as one gains experience with the box.
Your assumption though not stated, forgive me, is that I do not know what I am talking about and that may well be but I do have a boxblade and have become quite efficient at using it which puts me one up on you /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif . Actually I am not shocked, I just like that little bug eyed smiley face /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif . Just messing with you. J

 

[GlueGuy]

<font color=blue>They are near-Satanic devices</font color=blue>

only until experiance is gained. Their use and operation to the uninitiated looks deceivingly simple. When you first start using one, the mystery begins. If you think about what's happening when it does one if weirdnesses, then you begin to learn. I've learned a lot on my admittedly small amount of seat time. I think I'm getting better with it. In fact, I KNOW I've gotten better with it. I can now plan what I intend to do, and get results to match. That ain't bad. And the compliments that I get from friends and neighbors with the results area testament to the fact that I can learn new tricks. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[GlueGuy]

<font color=blue>These things are also had to operate, and are also of dubious utility (especially tilt). It is easier to grade my driveway by backdragging my bucket and using a hand rake than to go through all that boxblade pain. Speaking of FELs, my FEL considers it an insult to be compared to a boxblade. No one is confused about the utility of, or how to use, a FEL</font color=blue>

Oh, and one more thing (well maybe two or three)...

Dubious utility. Pushaw! I (for one) consider my boxblade right up there, as equal to, if not greater than the FEL. Certainly, they can't be good at the same things, so the comparison is dubious, not the usefulness. As an old saying goes, "if the only tool you have is a hammer, all your problems begin to look like nails". It is NOT easier to grade a driveway by backdragging a FEL versus a baxblade. I have 4300' of driveway to prove it. Especially the tilt. There is NO WAY that I could do the kind of job I do back dragging a FEL that I do with the boxblade. Just no way.

Conversely. There is no way that I could move stuff around with a boxblade that I do with the FEL. No way. They are different tools, to be used with different goals.

Sure, you can pound nails with a crescent wrench. It gets the job done. But a hammer tends to do a much better job.

 

[nicktime]

John,

Sorry, didn't mean to be misleading as to the boxblade being heavy duty. I also purchased the GB72 and agree with you. Even though it is one of Woods' lighter models, it is much heavier and beefier than a lot of the others out there.

I will probably break down and put in the hydraulics for top-n-tilt by the spring time. After getting on and off to make adjustments, I think it will pay for itself in the finished product.

Rich

 

[TresCrows]

Dittos and while on the subject neither top'n tilt or position control is needed--they are helpful and useful but an amateur who is not working a tractor for pay/hire does not need them and can get buy very nicely without--very nicely.
Back dragging the FEL better than compared to the boxblade--my Boxblade is insulted!!!!!!!! No way. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif . J

 

[Bird]

Glennmac, I probably wouldn't need a box blade either, if I stayed bogged down in a swamp all the time./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif However, since I do know just a tiny bit about how to use one, I guess it's the most used implement I have after the FEL./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif And yep, top 'n tilt is expensive, but if you use a blade much, it'll soon pay for itself. And you're right about Howse being kind of low end, but darned if it doesn't do everything I need to do, and I haven't been able to bend or break it so far. So how smart would it have been for me to buy a heavier one that costs twice as much?/w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif

 

[GrantMO]

Bird,
I have a KingKutter 72inch boxblade and it seems to work fine. It weighs more than the 25 series Landpride,which looked very well constructed, but was alot cheaper. I'll beat the heck out of it, can leave it outside without worrying about it and if it falls apart in the future I can get a heavier one. So far I think it's going to last a number of years. The utility of it is amazing and I compare it to the FEL in this regard. It's also similar that they both have definite learning curves to operate well.

 

[cowboydoc]

Glueguy,
I completely agree with you on the usefulness of the boxblade. There is absolutely not one bit of comparison to the usefulness of a boxblade and a front end loader or a regular blade.

The last two days have been a perfect example.
1. My road to my barn had alot of humps from pouring rock and driving on it and it settling down more in some places than other. With my front end loader I can't even touch this rock as it's now too hard. I put the box blade on set the scarifers down and in less then an hour I've got my road smooth again.

2. Entrance coming into my barn. From all the trucks and such coming in they got a dropoff going in and the entrance is a mess. Using the boxblade I widen out the entrance. I pull dirt and rock from the main road to make the transition from the road to the barn road smooth again. No way I could do this with the front end loader. Go out on a main gravel road and try and rip it down with a front end loader. Not going to happen.

3. The gateway between two pastures has a severe drop off. I can't budge the ground with the front end loader as it's too hard. Use the boxblade and the job is done in 5 minutes.

4. I finally got my sand for the new barn. The bottom is rock hard hard. They dump the sand in the middle of the barn. With the FEL I have to keep loading backing up and spreading. With the boxblade I back up to the pile grab a load with the boxblade and go. With the FEL it's difficult to see just how level I'm getting it. With the boxblade I look back and feather the control up and down and get it perfect. Now that I've got the sand out I need to soften up the rock hard dirt underneath. No problem set the scarifers down and run through it this way. I can reach back and keep setting three point arm to get more or less of drag with the blade or scarifing effect. When I've got the ground worked under the sand I can now set it back and level it all out again. Impossible to do that with the FEL.

5. I have an area outside that needs leveled and worked up. Set the scarifers down and get it down in about a 1/2 hour. In this time I've worked up the ground with the scarifers. Moved dirt from one spot to another with the boxblade and I've now got a nice mesa built up that will drain, is flat and ready to go.

One I couldn't have done half this work with the FEL alone and two the work I could have done would have taken three or four times as long.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Please educate me. What is the difference between a regular box blade and a rollover boxblade?

 

[MikePA]

doc,

Do you have the hydraulic Tip and Tilt?