box scraper won't dig

[InlineDieselFan]

evisr8,

Is the dealer close buy? If so go there where you can point and touch a tractor and explain what is going on. It does not make sense that you need to cut the top link like you have. I only downloaded the first picture, snail speed dial up took 4-5 minutes for that. Something certainly seems wrong though.

I am like N80 I can adjust my top link so that I have just scarifiers or just the back cutting edge, and all points in between.

steve

 

[greg_g]

Yeah well, you don't need draft control to use a boxblade so no worries there.

Interesting comment. I use draft control most of the time with my box blade, especially when the scarifiers are extended. It keeps the thing from trying to dig it's way to China, and bogging down the tractor in the process. When the box blade gets down to a reasonable distance below grade - say six inches - the draft control pulls it back up to starting grade. No big ruts from spinning tires to fill in either.

//greg//

 

[rswyan]

Greg,

No arguement here with what you are saying. I was merely making the point that the lack of draft control on this gentleman's tractor shouldn't affect his ability to get the boxblade blade to dig.

We had draft control on our previous tractor, an IH 444 and it was very handy, particularly when plowing with our double bottom plow.

 

[evisr8]

i think it is a matter of the lengths of the toplink, bottom arms, hydraulic arms and the distance from the toplink hole on the implement and the pivot points on the implement. for thoses of you who have no problems, do you have a MF 1540 and KK boxer? the scraper worked like a charm with my 8N and a 1987 Deutz Allis. it did not work on my 1540. i tried all the holes on the top link mount. it's not a matter of the bottom arms not going down far enough. with no load, the arms drop almost to the ground. it is a matter of the geometry of all the links and the angle it makes on the pivot point of the pins.

 

[N80]

I agree, the problem seems to be specific to the geometry of that tractor's 3 pt hitch. I would have assumed that all tractors had basically the same geometry to their hitches.

I also agree with the post suggesting that you take it to the dealer. Take it in with the BB attached and show him the issue. And don't let him tell you that what you've got is normal, because it isn't and it greatly limits the utility of the BB.

 

[JerryG]

I agree, the problem seems to be specific to the geometry of that tractor's 3 pt hitch. I would have assumed that all tractors had basically the same geometry to their hitches.

I also agree with the post suggesting that you take it to the dealer. Take it in with the BB attached and show him the issue. And don't let him tell you that what you've got is normal, because it isn't and it greatly limits the utility of the BB.

They are all approximately the same in each class. There is something wrong in this situation and it is either the box, which it doesn’t appear to be, or one of the links are wrong as delivered from the dealer or the setup is wrong. I still believe that the setup is wrong, but that is only a guess. That is why I ask for a picture of the three-point linkage with the box on. Without seeing all of the pivot points and arms in the same picture or multiple pictures, there is no way to even make an educated guess at what is really wrong. What I do know for sure is there is no way that the top link should have had to been cut to get the box to work. BTW, what is the length of the top link, both extended and retracted?

 

[john_bud]

Were it my tractor and box, I would have shortened the two straps that go from the 3pt top link to the back of the box. That would have tilted the box front low.

Then again, being a new tractor, letting the dealer fix it is probably even better.

Just to give you more "ammo" on a dealer visit, my tractor will cause the back to be way way higher than the front, like on the order of 5-6 inches. I don't know exactly as there has never been a need to shorten the top link all the way. 2-3 inches of tilt will make it so that only the scarifiers touch and the dirt can get out the back, so the tractor doesn't slow down at all.

good luck in the quest!

jb

 

[HWS1020]

I think your looking in the wrong place. I want to make sure I have all of this right. On your old Ford, the box worked fine? But your new tractor, it won't? In the pictures that show the before and after, is that as for down as the box will go? With the blade in that positon, it should have wanted to dig to China. If thats as far down as it will go, un- hook the tractor from the box. Position the tractor so the ends of the arms are just in front of the box. Then try to lower the arms. Do they go any lower then the mounting pins on the box? If not, then the lift arm links may not be adjusted right. On most tractors I've seen, these links are adjustable for length. Some even have a fixed positon hole and a second sliding slot at the bottom. Then leveling screws for adgjusting imliments. I would assume the manual will explain all the adjustments for them . But I can't tell any of this without seeing the hitch arms and links. Post a shot of the arms and liks and I might be able to help more.

 

[N80]

Jerry, what could be wrong with the rest of the 3 pt set-up? I'm not questioning your assessment, I genuinely don't know what else could be wrong. Are you thinking that it might have the wrong lower link arms installed or something like that?

It seems to me that they just put the wrong top link on it.

 

[evisr8]

if you look at the first picture "before" the scarifers are floating on the ground with the digging points traveling parallel with the ground. since there is really only 1 main pivot point (the 2 lower pins) the only way to change the angle is to bring the top link towards the tractor. as far as the toplink, i compared it to my toplink on the 8N, and it is shorter.

there are no other holes on the bottom links. the vertical links that attach the hydraulic arms to the bottom links do have 2 holes at the bottom. which i did try both holes to no avail. one doesn't have to try all combinations of holes to figure out it was a geometry problem and the only logical solution was to shorten the toplink and it worked.

the reason the box worked on my 8N is the lower links are longer than my 1540, hence there is a greater distance between the box pivots and the tractor. so, when i attached the toplink, it was already extended with the box in the down position. this allowed retraction of the toplink and a pivoting of the box so the box was level and the scarifers could dig. this was not the case with my 1540. the toplink of the 1540 was all the way retracted when i attached my box scraper. the only way to turn the toplink was to extend it. this would create more of an upward angle of the box and scarifers with the digging points being higher off the ground.

for those of you who don't have a MF 1540 and KK box scraper, i challenge you to extend your toplink with box so the scrafiers are floating on the ground, the points on parallel to the ground and the top of the box closest to the tractor is elevated (as in the first "before" picture). see if it will dig. then retract the toplink so the points of the scrarifers are touching and the box is level to the ground (as in the "post1" picture). it will not dig.