Box scraper basics

RobS · Mar 6, 2001

My conclusion is that their usage is obvious and requires no explanation.

To paraphrase one of my sons favorite books (Farm Days, by William Wegman): You just go... and go, and go, and go, and go, go, go, go...

WVBill · Mar 6, 2001

One of the good things about having a little tractor like my Kubota B6100 is that I can easily reach the top link from the seat while moving to make those fine adjustments (going to be turned around looking back there anyhow).

Unfortunately, the B6100 does not have position control and adjusting the height of the 3ph is real trial and error. The concept of a "fine adjustment" is unknown.

Still, I have accepted the challenge of making my box scraper more useful than just a counterweight for my FEL and threads such as this one are a big help.

GlueGuy · Mar 6, 2001

You guys are just great!

I was so flummoxed (technical term/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif) and confused about how to use the box blade when I first started. I really still am (flummoxed that is).

I will tell you something though. I can see how you would use one effectively without T&T, but it sure wouldn't be as easy as with T&T.

Also, the concept of hinging the rear blade is SO confusing to me! For me, the fixed rear blade has become the "modulator" for the front blade. I control how deep the front blade goes by supporting the rear blade on the surface. Riding the front blade above a flat surface 1/2" or so (by supporting it with the back blade) seems to limit "how much" you trim off an uneven surface.

When I get more experience, I can see myself writing something up about this (with pictures and arrows)...

The GlueGuy

JeffM · Mar 6, 2001

Just to correct something Del said here: Gannon was bought by Woods, not Landpride. Woods now owns Gannon, Gill, and Harley (power rakes). Woods continues to market and sell all these lines, for example, you can buy a "Woods" boxscraper, a "Gill" boxscraper, or a "Gannon" boxscraper. The rollover box that Woods now markets is a Gill.

Bird · Mar 6, 2001

Harv, the pictures I had seen before of your box blade made it look just like my Howse, except for color. Maybe we know why the different color now./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif Mine doesn't have the hinged blade. It's fixed at about the same angle to the rear as the front blade is fixed forward. And I've bought 3 different brands of box blades and I've never seen any documentation or instructions with any of them. Of course, I think any of them are quite valuable and can get a lot done with them, but you don't want to try the hydraulic tip 'n tilt unless you intend to always have one, 'cause once you try it you won't want to be without it./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif I've sure been using mine today.

Bird

Anonymous Poster · Mar 6, 2001

Bird, mine's red and also has the hinged back. The Howse web site lists them both ways. I added pins on mine so I can pin the rear blade out of the way; then you can smooth by backing with the front blade. I haven't decided where to put the pins to hold the rear blade down.

Howse Box Blades

Bird · Mar 6, 2001

OK, Dave, so I still don't know why Harv's box blade is yellow and ours is red. So, where's the extra weight in the "hinged back" blades? According to their web site, in the 5' size, the hinged back is 76# heavier.

Bird

TraderMark · Mar 6, 2001

Bird...
I don't know why but CT Farm and Country here has both red and yellow Hoswe box scapers. I looked at them very closely when I was looking to buy a scraper and the only difference I saw in the two was the color.

The extra weight on the hinged back model comes from the plate that the rear blade is bolted to. On the solid back models, there's one piece of angle iron for both front and rear blades to share. The hinged model has a seperate plate for the rear blade.

Anonymous Poster · Mar 6, 2001

You just go... and go, and go, and go, and go, go, go, go...

...Sounds like the "Everyready Battery Rabbit"....

LarryT · Mar 6, 2001

MarkV, I certainly agree with you about the value of a box blade. Although I do have T&T on this tractor, I didn't on the previous one and the same still applies. I thought I'd only attach the box blade on rare occassions when I bought the tractor. I mentioned in a post the other day that I'm either taking the box blade off, or putting it back on. I use it almost every time I use the tractor for something or other. Good tool. Just takes practice!

Larry...

Bird · Mar 7, 2001

Of course, the extra weight would be nice, but I guess I just don't understand the hinged rear blade. I've never used, or seen anyone else use, one of them, and I can't figure out why anyone would want the hinged blade. Got to be some reason for them that I don't know about.

Bird

Anonymous Poster · Mar 7, 2001

Bird, I guess that the hinged back originated because somebody decided that they didn't like the box riding on the rear cutting edge when they tilted the box back. With a hinged back the rear edge gets out of the way and lets the front edge do the cutting. This might make the difference between the scarifiers ripping or not while cutting with the front edge. I'm not saying it's better or worse; just different. It all comes down to what you feel is the right way to use the implement.

When I went shopping for box blades the hinged back was the one that CT had in stock. I picked the one that was complete and had the most paint. I did stop at a few other places, and saw Bush Hog, Rhino, and Gannon boxes for more money than I wanted to spend.

Keoke · Mar 7, 2001

Bird, a hinged rear blade also let's one push dirt in reverse (backfilling) and when going back forward for another run rear blade simply folds up. This means that you don't have to lift the box up on the forward pass. This setup requires that you tilt the box back so that the inner blade is a good ways above the ground on your forward pass.
On the tilt forward/or back for a heavy cut business. Could it be that on a real heavy box (Gannon) the weight of the box is such that just shifting that weight onto the inner blade (extended link) will get you a deep cut? On the lighter boxes it may require that you tilt the box down at nose (shorting link) forcing the inner blade into the ground at a steep angle to get a heavy cut. Just a thought, what do you think?

george

gordon · Mar 7, 2001

When boxblading the key is toplink length for what you want to do. For ripping you can either drop the rippers down all the way or leave them in the middle position. If in the middle position shorten the toplink just past level. Meaning the front of the box just alittle lower in front that way you will rip and scrape at the same time.

For leveling tilt the box back so it's riding on the rearblade and slowly raise the 3pt hitch to dump the box.

This is why a hydraulic toplink makes using a boxblade so much easier. You can lenghten the toplink to dump the box and grade it out in one process. That way your not constantly messing with the 3pt height. Makes you look like a pro real quick.

The key to being a hotcat on a boxblade is practice, practice, practice oh yea did I mention that it takes alittle bit to get the hang of it. Also take smaller bites at times and you'll sometimes make better time and less mess than taking big bites.

Gordon

jimmoore · Mar 7, 2001

The greater the angle on the front blade the more it bites the ground, this / compared to this l

jim

Bird · Mar 7, 2001

Beats me, George. I use the fixed rear blade like a dozer backing up to push dirt in reverse. Obviously, there's something (or several things) I don't know about that hinged blade. So far I haven't been able to imagine how it would be any use to me.

Gordon, most of the time when I was smoothing and leveling that driveway yesterday, I never picked up the box with the 3-point. I just left the 3-point hitch all the way down and drove forward and backward adjusting the top link as I went until I got it the way I wanted it.

Bird

gordon · Mar 7, 2001

All of those runs into town are sure proving to be worth all that hassle now aren't they? A hydraulic toplink sure does make life alot easier.

The production goes up and the hassle goes down just by having an extra cylinder to play with. I know when I got mine I wondered why I ever waited as long as I did to install it.
Is that too many I's in one sentence???
Gordon

TWINKLE_TOES · Mar 7, 2001

Bird,

I have been using a Land Pride box (no hinge) on my wifes B7500 (no position control). I find it darn hard to do a good job of leveling. I have played with the top link and got the drift of that. Just a few turns makes a big difference. Lowering the box down is pretty gracefull but up is a challenge. Is there something I am missing, besides position control and hydraulic top link, and more time on the tractor? She does a much better job than I, it's getting embarrassing./w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif

Bird · Mar 7, 2001

Al, I don't think you're missing anything. Of course, whether you have position control or not, you can adjust the speed with which an implement falls, but not the speed it rises (other than idling the engine). And I know how you feel about the wife doing a better job. My wife's never touched a tractor, but when I had the B7100 my brother could do a better job of smoothing and leveling than I could, and I've got a lot more tractor time than he'll ever have./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

Bird

Bird · Mar 7, 2001

Yeah, Gordon, I think it was worth it. Of course, there were even more trips than I told about on the forum. It's been too wet and muddy to do anything lately, but last week, I decided to try out the new hydraulics for a few minutes and discovered that danged Tisco cylinder had a small factory defect; a tiny leak around one of the fittings that was welded onto the side. It wasn't enough to squirt out; just oozed out and dripped off. So I had to take it and have the cylinder taken apart and that spot ground down and re-welded./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif But everything seemed to work right yesterday finally.

Bird