Box blade

[Xfaxman]

For best finishing results I run backwards. ------------

I run backwards, but the box blade is going forward:

If I go forward the box blade becomes a dozer blade:

 

[DieselBound]

^^ Yeah, yeah, I heard about guys like you! (I finally discovered a fully farm-functional telehandler [gotta have a mechanical PTO for mowing!], but it's WAY too much - Merlo Turbo Farmer; I can dream!)

 

[IndyIan]

I run backwards, but the box blade is going forward:
View attachment 696782 View attachment 696783


If I go forward the box blade becomes a dozer blade:
View attachment 696784

That would be handy to get the clay or turf rolls out of the blade for sure. Even with the hyd top link sometimes I can get plugged. What happens when a rock stops the machine on one of the corners? The leverage must start add up on the loader? I popped a stabilizer clevis off my 3pt arm but it just welded back on. It wasn't this rock but one similar brought things to a temporary halt.

This is an 84" Gannon from an old skip loader I believe, that is a bit heavy for the tractor in virgin dry clay soil with the 8 scarifiers down and the blade digging in. But I find it works good with just tilting the box to engage only the scarifiers to rip up the turf and then level it and start cutting with the blade. If you can find a super HD one I recommend it as I don't worry about doing anything to this one. If the driveway ices up bad I just drop two scarifiers and let the whole weight of the box down on them and bust ice 2-3" thick on the gravel driveway. Or sometimes to hook a bigger rock like this one out of the ground without a lot of digging I just use one scarifier and the hyd top link to roll it up, or pulling stumps. I think on average having the blade wider than the tractor is better for dirt work, in tight areas not so much but with the 3pt all the way up and the blade curled up it kind of gets out of the way, or atleast aways off the ground.

 

[TMGT]

Interested in box blade, using it for a plethora of projects and will be pretty rough with it. I have a 2008 ck35hst. Want to know should I buy a unit that is a few inches wider than the tires or go narrower, I have read differing opinions on the subject. I think a heavier unit is the way to go, need a unit that is built sturdy. I am leaning towards a unit that is hinged and was wondering if it's worth the extra money? Seems as if it would be. Again I will be using this for ripping and leveling, spreading gravel etc.,etc.

I just went through shopping for a heavy duty box blade myself, I ended up getting a used Woods/Gill SR25HD but if this deal hadn't worked out I was going to order one from Everything Aattachments.

Having had lighter box blades with a fixed rear cutting edge and also roll over box blades in the past, I will say I really like having the swinging rear cutting edge.

I was looking looking for a 6ft box and ended up with a 78", which actually worked out better as I have about 3-4" of blade past the rear tires.

I also wanted heavy for loader counterweight when I have my unloaded tires on, mine comes in close to 160lbs per ft.

If figure out what size you want and then features and weight, then see whats available, I really like the everythingattachments build quality and materials they use. Only downside is the 12-14 week wait.

Here's my BB on the L3240

And a view of how much it extends past the tire

 

[Xfaxman]

That would be handy to get the clay or turf rolls out of the blade for sure. Even with the hyd top link sometimes I can get plugged.

Yep, here is the hyd top link getting a good angle for the rear blade to do some leveling.

What happens when a rock stops the machine on one of the corners? The leverage must start add up on the loader?
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Hasn't happened yet. The loader arms are very stout.