Box blade

[jjp8182]

I went with one that wasn't hinge-backed and and have come to semi-regret the choice because I've run into the situation where the fixed rear blade has worked as a float limiting how fast/deep the box blade would cut on a single pass. Which isn't something that's an issue that often (hence only semi-regretting the purchase), but when it is it can slow things down.

While there may be benefits to having a box blade that doesn't cover the tractor width I can't think of them at the moment. Though on the flip side( outside of some very specific applications) I'm not sure I'd want to go a whole lot wider than the overall tractor width either since could create additional clearance issues for working in tight areas.

So personally if/when I do it over I'd like one that is hinge-backed, wide enough to cover the tractor's width with minimal overhang, and has enough depth/capacity to carry as much soil as the tractor can move.

 

[rjpotts]

I didn't know there were so many box blade variants, maybe I should consider upgrading. Never the less my "run of the mill" King Kutter has done a lot over last 20 years. I've leveled driveways and yards, moved piles of material, dug drainage trenches, and to this day I have it hooked up all winter as a counterweight to my front snowblower and to scrape what the blower leaves behind. It's paid for itself many times over.

 

[SylvainG]

Dug drainage trenches?

 

[jjp8182]

By the way on a related note a hydraulic top link is a very useful thing to have when using a box blade.

Can make it easier to control or feather the spreading of material - or gain better (though not "good") control during the removal of material on rough/uneven ground.

 

[rjpotts]

Dug drainage trenches?

I had water standing on about 1/2 acre of my property. Using a water level I mapped the topography. Then I used the box blade to dig a trench through the lowest points and exiting where it can drain to. I then used the box blade to taper the sides so I can mow it. The deepest part is about 18".

 

[bubbu55]

Thanks guys, I think the reason for a smaller unit was just about moving in and out of tight spots. That being said it really doesn't make sense to do. I like woods products, they just seem to be beefier than most others. Haven't heard any good arguments for the hinged box.

 

[kantuckid]

I got a nice Land Pride box blade scraper with my tractor and wasn't sure I'd use it much as I liked my old Bush Hog grader blade-wrong! It's been great and my go to tool for our 1/2 mile of private gravel road. They will also level a build site if your patient. It's well made and designed plus it's made in KS, my home state! Mine is orange so it matches my Kioti.
I fail to see the rationale to a small one if road works the job?

 

[3gunr]

Go with at least a 66 inch , 72 would be fine., My 28 hp tractor handles my 72 just fine , Last fall i used it to build a pad for my 28x35 garage Was fun doing it and saved me some money, Concrete guy said it was level within an inch or so. That was just eyeballing it. I had a 5ft box but wanted a wider one . The 6 ft is perfect.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

The hinged rear blade really allows to do a "finish" on what you are grading. I do have a hydraulic top link, so makes it very easy to set the blade.

I recently regraded and spread some road base on my neighbor's driveway. He was amazed at how smooth I got the drive, just driving back and forth using only the hinged blade, skimming over the surface.

I did the same thing when I graveled our parking area (50' x 200'), you couldn't see a tire mark, ridge, or hump anywhere.

My first box blade had a fixed rear blade.... night and day difference in easeof use!

 

[bubbu55]

If I did put hydraulic top link on, there wouldn't be a need for a hinged unit,right?