Box Blade Suggestion

[CH4Ohio]

I wouldn't fret much over the decision between 66" and 72". Pick one. Personally, I'd go with the 6' BB since it allows your hitch to sway a bit and still covers your tire track well. Seems like a more standard size that could be bought cheaper too. Either one will be better suited than the 7' blade you're using.

I almost never drop the scarifiers down. Certainly don't on the driveway.

 

[ZiggyD]

So, 66" or 72" for pulling stone uphill? What do you guys think?

Similar situation with an 84” Gannon BB on a 50 hp tractor on a steep 3000’ driveway. The tractor is a bit undersized for the 84”. What made big difference was adding a hydraulic top link which allows changing the blade’s angle on the fly so it doesn’t cut too much and bog the tractor down. First find the right height for the implement then use the top link to dynamically adjust the blade as you go. Takes a bit of practice but works well.

 

[2manyrocks]

^I think spending the money on a hydraulic top link instead of taking a loss on the current box blade might be a good plan. Then you can easily adjust the blade from the tractor seat.

 

[Engineer42]

So what are you calling full? Material running over the back plate? Or a uniform level all the way across?

My first thought is you need a swale next to your driveway to handle the water. This would solve the bulk of your issue.

Second, take a smaller bite with your box blade. If you don't have top and tilt, at least get the top cylinder. Makes controlling your "bite" much easier.

But you have to get the water off your road. Otherwise it will remain an issue.

And, if you decide to get rid of the 84" box, let me know. I need to upgrade from my 72".

 

[jr838]

I bought an 84" BB last year to use on my driveway. Its 1500ft gravel and on a hill. Gravel will wash on very hard rains and needs carried up the hill and ruts filled. Thank God it doesn't happen too often.

The DK4520 pulls it well until the ground is loose. A full load will stop the tractor and spin going uphill. It gets annoying needing to lift and feather the BB to get going again.

Lesson learned on the too big a box. So, my question is, because of the hill do I downsize to a 66" to just cover the tire tracks or go with a 72"?

The tractor measures 64" across the rear treads.

The driveway is 8-9ft wide so it's not a big deal to go down one side and up the other with a smaller box and having power in reserve seems like a good idea anyway.

Also began looking at rollover box blades. They are heavier and I like the idea of using a lever to roll it into position for the scarifiers and then back to scraping.

So, 66" or 72" for pulling stone uphill? What do you guys think?

Having the same problem, I built a roller out of a old water heater filled with concrete, it helps some keeping the ruts to a minimum.

 

[DKCDKC]

I have a 5 ft BB on my JD 3038 and a mile-long, hilly, curvy gravel driveway. I can bog down if I take too much at a time - but several smaller pulls do the job. I use a back blade to pull gravel in twice a year then BB to smooth out. I have worn the BB side panels so much I'm welding on new steel. But they still work mostly. For ordinary storms I touch up the drive with a Ratchet Rake on the FEL. Works like a charm for up to 6 inch ruts. I keep the BB for more major wash outs and periodic smoothing. It has worked well for 30 years. I like the idea of the roll-over BB and the hydraulic stuff and all, but can't see spending the money if what I have works.

 

[joc664]

I'm no landscaper but water bars in a driveway sound like a pain to resurface. The driveway would never feel smooth. I do like the idea of something that holds the rock in place though. What you don't see in the picture is behind me is more hill and a large corn field. Water from the field runs down the hill and into the driveway since it's lower than the banks. Imo, the driveway needs raised above the level of the banks and crowned correctly for runoff with ditches dug on one side or both with large rock for the runoff to collect and drain. I've been kicking around the idea of blacktop millings. I'm assuming it's going to be costly though.

Google Broad Based dip. Diverts water, saves gravel, does not bounce your vehicle when driving over it. Ideally it is put in when the road is built, but can be added later with some work.

 

[FERLING]

I bought an 84" BB last year to use on my driveway. Its 1500ft gravel and on a hill. Gravel will wash on very hard rains and needs carried up the hill and ruts filled. Thank God it doesn't happen too often.

The DK4520 pulls it well until the ground is loose. A full load will stop the tractor and spin going uphill. It gets annoying needing to lift and feather the BB to get going again.

Lesson learned on the too big a box. So, my question is, because of the hill do I downsize to a 66" to just cover the tire tracks or go with a 72"?

The tractor measures 64" across the rear treads.

The driveway is 8-9ft wide so it's not a big deal to go down one side and up the other with a smaller box and having power in reserve seems like a good idea anyway.

Also began looking at rollover box blades. They are heavier and I like the idea of using a lever to roll it into position for the scarifiers and then back to scraping.

So, 66" or 72" for pulling stone uphill? What do you guys think?

Used a New Holland Workmaster 50 with hydraulic mid-link with a HH boxblade that was 96 inches wide. Had hills up from a pond so I just pulled what tractor would handle. You only need to pull enough gravel to cover washes in road. Just try to pull what tractor will handle and make several trips. Only tear up your base deep enogh to fill the washes. Hydraulic mid-link allows your boxgage teeth to barely disturb the surface gathering enough gravel to do the job. Invest in a '8 ft Yardrake' for minor future grooming of driveway. It will resurface about inch of surface gravel and make your gravel surface look new. Saved a tons of gravel over the years with that Yard Rake.