Block Heater install

[mffarmall]

I have a FarmPro 2425 and am going to install a Napa 605-1477. I do not want to cut the hose. I'm just going to install a short section from the radiator to the heater.

Is it better to just get a new hose? What size diameter does it take?

Does the water flow from the block into the radiator or rad to block on the lower connection?

 

[Diamondpilot]

You are making this way to hard. Just cut the hose. I am guessing if you add hose it will pinch the hose due to it being too long. The directions on my heater actually had you take a 2" section or so of hose out to account for the length of the heater. When its time replace the hose as needed.

Chris

 

[Egon]

Does the water flow from the block into the radiator or rad to block on the lower connection?

Most systems should have cool water flowing from the bottom of the radiator to the block.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Coolant flow trivia:
Actually, the coolant flows from the bottom of the radiator to the suction side of the pump (a small portion of this passes through the by-pass and back to the top tank to prevent the pump from churning). This allows for back-pressure regulation by the thermostat, thus keeping coolant aeration to a minimum, making sure there are no air pockets around the cylinders and cylinder head.

 

[mffarmall]

Thanks for the help. I figured that the water flow needed to be the same direction when you install the heater. So block to radiator. Or is the heater a passive system only heating the water?

 

[greg_g]

... is the heater a passive system only heating the water?

Yes, passive - that is, no forced circulation like you'd see from a tank heater. Just like sticking one of those little electric heaters in a tea cup, it works on the conduction principle; warmth spreading out in all directions from the heating element. Situated in the lower radiator hose - and considering that heat rises - that warms the radiator water. In the other direction, conduction also spreads some warmth into the water jackets - via water pump and subsequent coolant passages

Personally, I prefer an oil pan heater. Again heat rises, and the pan is even lower than the bottom heater hose. Oil thins as it warms, making a cold engine spin faster. Heat rising off the oil also warms the block, to include the water jackets. Given the right circumstances, this warmth can be conducted as far back as the radiator.

//greg//

 

[mffarmall]

I found a Katz for 19.00 at autozone. Know of any place cheaper?

If anyone knows the hose diameter for this? I think it's 1 1/4 but not sure.

 

[Diamondpilot]

That is a good price. Mine was a 1 1/2" on my Jinma 254. Here is a pic with the part #.

Chris

 

[mffarmall]

Thanks for the 1 1/2 tip it really helped. Got it installed over the next night. It was easy to put in. I just needed to rethink the overall position of it. I have pictures to add. I did not even have to drain the system. I just used some aluminum and speed ties on the ends. I put a plastic bag in a bucket to catch the fluids(that way it was clean and I could lower my cost. I just changed out my fluids during the summer.

 

[mffarmall]

The end result. Snow and 14 the next night. She started up on the first try.

 

[greg_g]

...lower my cost.

That mindset all too often ends up costing more money in the long run. I've found that it doesn't pay to be cheap when it comes to maintaining (what I consider to be) a major investment. Having had quite a few years experience with Chinese rubber already (hoses/belts/tires), I strongly suggest you start saving now - for a new set of radiator hoses. Put them on the shelf as spares for now, you'll need them soon. May as well buy an extra gallon of anti-freeze too. Odds are you're gonna lose what's in there now.

While we're at it, does your engine parts manual indicate whether or not yours is a wet-sleeved or dry-sleeved engine? All 4 Chinese tractors I've owned were wet-sleeved, which means that a SCA type anti-freeze should be used. Cheapest around here is Final Charge 50/50, about $9/gal at Walmart.

//greg//

 

[mffarmall]

It's good to get a warning about things. I will probably replace the hoses and belts over the summer. But for now it works. I used prestone this last time and just got the regular and mixed 1/2 water with it.

The funny thing was over the weekend I was so glad that it took a shorter time to warm up then usual, that I pulled out of my shack and took out the front post with the loader. Now I need to replace it.

 

[greg_g]

I used prestone this last time

Did you understand my question about whether your engine is wet-sleeved or dry-sleeved?

//greg//

 

[mffarmall]

No, I don't have a manuel. But I have down loaded a copy from Daves Tractors. I will look for it.

 

[mffarmall]

Did you understand my question about whether your engine is wet-sleeved or dry-sleeved?

Is a question like this the same as saying hey new guy grab those two wires for me. zap!

 

[greg_g]

Is a question like this the same as saying hey new guy grab those two wires for me. zap!

No, it's a legit question. You said you diluted Prestone, which is what most folks use in a typical dry-sleeved engine. All four of my Chinese tractors are/were wet-sleeved however, which means regular Prestone would be the wrong kind of coolant (for me). For them a SCA (anti-cavitation) type coolant is recommended. It would help to know if yours was wet-sleeved as well, before the corrosion and pitting starts.

//greg//

 

[mffarmall]

We had some really cold weather here last night/day. I turned on the block for about 20 min and she turned over on the second try. I tried her last night when it was -23 and she turned over. She was not happy but was getting warmed up.

SCA fluid sounds good to me. If it's good for other Chinese tractors then it's probably a recommendation.

 

[mffarmall]

I think that now that I have looked at my Katz. I'm not sure what I did. But I know it was my fault some how. I pulled the cord (but it still have a 123 v charge to it.) They need a led on it. And some times I connected the cord to the wall with it plugged into extension cord. And I had to put it at a 4 oclock position for the top not the 5 -7 they want.

 

[Affordable]

The Yangdong Y380 and Y385T are dry sleeved engines for sure,the TY395 and the TY290 are wet sleeved.Greg G which engines did you have in your other tractors ?

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[greg_g]

Greg G which engines did you have in your other tractors ?

Both Jinmas had the "1998" TPEM Y385. My
2006 TS354C has a pre-EPA Y485, and my
2004 KM454 has a FD395.
All are definitely sleeved, that part is evident from both the parts manuals and from adjusting valve lash. But until just now, I have never seen/heard/read anything to suggest that they were other than wet sleeved. That said, I've never had cause to take any of them down to the short block.

If there is no actual coolant contact with the Y85 series cylinder sleeves during the above year of manufacture, I stand corrected.

//greg//