Blades on a box blade

[ovrszd]

My bucket and box are flat! Wouldn't want or have it any other way.

Depends on what the definition of flat is?? Cue Bill Clinton...

It doesn't matter. After a few hours of use, it'll have the cutting edge worn unevenly anyway.

 

[ovrszd]

1/8 - 1/4" would drive me nuts- especially if I was doing finish/final grading.

So you are claiming to be able to cut a grade within 1/4" with your tractor and BB??? That's a standard that rough-in carpenters use. Are you sure you can do that???

 

[IH782]

If you read post #17 I really don't want to take a picture because it might give away the brand, and I don't want to be accused of brand bashing or get a lot of people mad, maybe I can try to take a picture without giving away the brand. I have no experiance with box blades and want others opinions who are experienced.

It's not brand bashing if there's something actually wrong with the product.

 

[ovrszd]

I'm just curious, at what point would you reject a box blade being not flat on the cutting edge, over 60" 1/8"-1/4"-1/2" ? I'm just trying to get some idea of unexceptable. If you had a blade that was not flat do you think it would wear flat Or continue to wear curved.

Hard to set a standard for rejection.... Everyone's tolerances are different.

What you are describing, while being a bit annoying to look at, will have no impact on your ability to properly use the implement.

Out of curiosity I might find myself stopping by the dealer again and checking out the other BBs sitting on the lot.

 

[Ford850]

I'm just curious, at what point would you reject a box blade being not flat on the cutting edge, over 60" 1/8"-1/4"-1/2" ? I'm just trying to get some idea of unexceptable. If you had a blade that was not flat do you think it would wear flat Or continue to wear curved.

For me, I wouldn't be concerned at all if it was 1/8". I wouldn't be surprised if I set my current blades on a flat surface and saw they were 1/4" or more from either the build or from wear. 1/2" would be annoying on a blade, especially a new one. But even then it would be ok in my opinion. If using on hard surfaces it would wear flat.

 

[Catman8]

For me, I wouldn't be concerned at all if it was 1/8". I wouldn't be surprised if I set my current blades on a flat surface and saw they were 1/4" or more from either the build or from wear. 1/2" would be annoying on a blade, especially a new one. But even then it would be ok in my opinion. If using on hard surfaces it would wear flat.

Ok, so I should take my tractor to the concrete freeway or interstate and drag the box blade for a mile or two to get it flat just watch out for the CHP I have really soft dirt on my property. :laughing:

 

[RNeumann]

So you are claiming to be able to cut a grade within 1/4" with your tractor and BB??? That's a standard that rough-in carpenters use. Are you sure you can do that???

You can get new tractors for under $10k. You can use loaders that are crooked or have warn pivot points. You can run a motor that burns oil as well. But if bought a NEW tool and found it to be bent I'd return it.

With regards to dirt work. For years we have been using lasers to establish grade. Much less than 1/4". As for me personally- I need all the help I can get.

Some of us would be fine making cabinets with a Skil saw- maybe even do a great job! Some would be OK with a wobble in their drill press or a crooked fence on the table saw. That stuff would drive me nuts though. I also want to use quality tools and equipment when doing a task- I find joy in that.

If an OP started a post and said "hay I can get a great deal on a BB because it's bent a little" I'd have a different answer. But new- no way!BBs last decades- a good one will long outlast the tractor. Why start with one that is bent?

Suggesting the cutting blade will wear flat in a few hours is an interesting idea- let me know how that works. 1/32" an hour- so that's 1" every 32 hours of use. So a new blade every 50 hours or so? I haven't seen the brass cutting blades you are suggesting but I'm betting they are a little more money than the ones made with hardened steel. I guess in this application it would be worth the extra expense.

 

[teg]

Let me put it another way, If the box blade is a "quality", expensive one - It should be perfect. If you bought an economical, cheap one - it's close/good enough.

 

[JRobyn]

That ain't right. The "bowing" tolerance on that piece of angle iron when it was manufactured should be within a few thousandths. Regardless of whether it was extruded, cold-rolled or forged. I can't imagine the blade manufacturer getting in a batch of steel stock that was all warped and bowed and accepting it. 2x4s at Lowes, maybe. Something bad happened to it at the box blade manufacturer while the blade was being fabricated. Bent, heat-warped? Maybe even bent after it was fabricated. Is there any evidence of an impact on the iron that the blades mount to?

It is a grading device and I would not accept it with anything more than a measurable bow, maybe 1/16" MAX.

 

[IH782]

It is a grading device and I would not accept it with anything more than a measurable bow, maybe 1/16" MAX.

I agree. If you can see the bow with your naked eye then their is something wrong. We box blade anywhere from 50 to 75 gravel driveways a year, if one of our boxes had a bow in it you would most certainly be able to tell by the finished product.