Big drill bits

[nyone]

Unless your shaping the shank off a drill bit is not a one time use item...resharpen it.

 

[Industrial Toys]

My Dad has a cast aluminum crafstman drill like that. I too have been caught up in the action.

Curious what kind of a a switch is in that. Seems like it would work for a 100 amp main disconnect. And actually has a button, just for the brave, that LOCKS it on!

I bet the cord on that thing, bought circa 1967, is just as soft and pliable as the day it was bought.

 

[guitarman]

Msc has all kinds of cutting fluids both oil and water base one of the best is tapmatic, it can be used for just about any kind of drilling, it lubes and cools. Speeds and feeds is what makes drilling successful from the smallest drill up to large spade and core drills.

 

[radios1]

I unfortunately destroyed a 6" Millwalkee hold saw on a stainless electrical cabinet. Even used SS cutting fluid and went slow!

were you running it at the recommended 25 RPM??.. https://disstontools.com/app/uploads/Hole_Saw_Operating_Speeds.pdf 80 RPM for a carbide tipped hole saw.. Best RPM for Hole Saws when Cutting Any Material | Pro Tool Reviews

 

[ArlyA]

Ya, big bits = slow speeds which many drills can't do. I punch most of my large holes I need but without that, I'd be using a hole saw at home or a Bridgeport at my buddies shop. Large hold saws are indeed tough to hang onto while in a hand drill......

 

[ultrarunner]

I use my Bridgeport NC for drilling and it does a good job... also have various Milwaukee angle drills and a Hawg that was in clearance for $50 brand new that I have never used...

I find taper shank drills dirt cheap because most can't use them... the Southbend Lathe turns off the taper which works for me...

Back in the machine shop days I spent a lot of time with a radial arm drill... it was nice being able to swing it into position.

Also had a Mag Drill that did a good job for assemblies... just couldn't push too hard of the mag would break free...

 

[Industrial Toys]

I was using a cordless Ridged 1/2" drill, so I probably oversped the hole saw. Probably easy to do with the 6" diameter.

 

[radios1]

I was using a cordless Ridged 1/2" drill, so I probably oversped the hole saw. Probably easy to do with the 6" diameter.

yep, way too easy with a hand drill.. but then, if it had gearing to accommodate that speed, it could easily break your arms!.

 

[PILOON]

I have a Milwaukie 'hole hawg' and a nice set of dormer bits and also a drill press.
Good lubricant and I'm good to go.

On the internet I did buy a nice set cobalt hole cutters (kind of look like bell saws) which bore a nice precise hole and really last a long time.
So far have drilled a multitude of 3/4" holes in 3/8" and 1/2" mild steel with no signs of wear.

 

[BukitCase]

"just couldn't push too hard of the mag would break free"

That's one of the reasons I bought the bigger Hougen drill - higher rated magnetic pull, + a lower (second) speed for over 1" cutters. I knew I was gonna need it for a few things that were only 1/8" thick and not practical to strap a thickner piece of steel on. Most mag drills are rated for enough pull for their size, BUT - when you read the fine print, those ratings are usually for AT LEAST 3/4" thick steel. The thinner the steel, the less they grab.

The table for the "drilling station" I linked to earlier in the thread started out as a piece of 10" channel, but I already knew the web (about 3/8") wasn't gonna work well, so I did a 1/2" cover plate over that. Then I knocked off the mill scale and smoothed it out with a fly cutter. I've drilled up to 1-1/2" holes thru 1" plate while the drill was on its table, never had a lift-off.

I'd used several different mag drills prior to retirement, so had a pretty good idea what I wanted in one; so far, still happy

One of the future plans for the drill is as a power source for a home-built line bore setup when I re-bush my 580B - both the loader and hoe are gonna need a few ... Steve

 

[ultrarunner]

Friend had a steel gusset project that needed about 100 1” holes in 3/8” plate. Another friend has an Iron Worker and it was quick work to punch the holes

 

[fatjay]

Old bucket/arms are 1.5" pins, new bucket is 1" holes. Suggestions on how to make them bigger?

 

[LD1]

There is no good way with an average home garage. Maybe I missed it but have you considered taking it to a machine shop?

Running a 1.5" bit down in a 1" hole with a hand drill is gonna be a nightmare. Gonna want to grab, bind and try to break your arm. And the bits dont like it either.

They are spendy to buy an arbor, but have you considered spade bits?

 

[fatjay]

There is no good way with an average home garage. Maybe I missed it but have you considered taking it to a machine shop?

Running a 1.5" bit down in a 1" hole with a hand drill is gonna be a nightmare. Gonna want to grab, bind and try to break your arm. And the bits dont like it either.

They are spendy to buy an arbor, but have you considered spade bits?

A spade bit for metal?

I've taken 1" to 1¼" with hand drill, it wasn't fun, but it got done. I don't know of a machine shop in the area, I have my steel supplier and wood supplier but they don't do anything like that.

 

[downsizingnow48]

Presumably the bucket with 1" holes has welded-on bushings that are about 1 1/2" OD? Or something like that. So boring the holes out would make the bushings thin or remove them entirely. If the bucket has those bushings, boring out is not going to work. In that case, I would cut out the old bushings with torch or plasma. Then weld in a new section that has the new bushing w/ 1 1/2 hole already welded onto it. Using the backhoe stick and a length of 1 1/2 round bar to keep everything reasonably straight.

 

[fatjay]

Presumably the bucket with 1" holes has welded-on bushings that are about 1 1/2" OD? Or something like that. So boring the holes out would make the bushings thin or remove them entirely. If the bucket has those bushings, boring out is not going to work. In that case, I would cut out the old bushings with torch or plasma. Then weld in a new section that has the new bushing w/ 1 1/2 hole already welded onto it. Using the backhoe stick and a length of 1 1/2 round bar to keep everything reasonably straight.

I don't know about the new bucket, but the old bucket has no bushings, it's just metal on metal with zerks. I do keep them well greased though.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Get a 1/1/2" shaft coupling, the pin should fit inside nicely unless worn badly. Cut off pieces for each side. Burn out a hole to match the OD of the coupling and weld in the pieces for the pins. You may need to ream a little after welding as the coupling pieces will expand some. Rent the reamer at the auto parts store. Shaft couplings are forged or high strength steel and make good pin bushings. Re-looking at picture you may need to beef up the ears or make new pieces. Alignment is critical.

Ron

 

[BukitCase]

Agree with Downsizing and Ron; I got mine here

1-1/2 Shaft Coupler | Concentric International | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com

used 'em whole for parts of my loader QA setup (not finished yet) and sliced 'em into 3/4" thick weldable bushings for other parts (horizontal band saw)

Bent 1/2 x 3 FB "U" brackets into 1-1/2" ID for upper pin attach using my 20 ton press

The plan (when I get back to it) is to leave pins in all upper mount holes of implements (original bucket, grapple, fork lift, brush forks, brush bucket, 3ph adapter) so I can lift implement by the upper pins (in the hooks), then curl it up and insert lower pins.

If I get REALLY ambitious I may adapt the same plan to hoe buckets later... Steve

Also agree with making larger ears if necessary to get 1-1/2" holes without losing strength - my hoe has about 9400 lbs breakout, not a job for bungee cords...

 

[denchen]

If the bucket is designed to work with a one inch pin, it would be easier to temporary bush the inch and half holes than drill out the bucket

 

[tookielee]

Just use a 1" pin, and bushings where needed