Best Tractor?

[jk96]

I think I'd have to agree about using a riding lawn mower if only mowing one acre.

As to the size of the tractor, Here's my experience on the two tractors I've owned, one of which is a dx24, previous years model from one of the tractors your considering.

Case DX24 - 60" mid mower, loader, & post hole auger.
When purchasing my first tractor 2 years ago - One of my main concerns was having a tractor small enough to get into tight places in the yard and light enough to mow without damage. I put 240 very hard hours on the tractor doing loader work, clearing, mowing, drilling, etc. The tractor was an excellent machine and I could not have expected more for its size. I had no mechanical problems at all. It didn't take me long though to figure out that I was asking my tractor to do more than it was intended to do. It also needed more pushing power and lift from the loader for the type of work I was doing. Small bites at a time were key for the loader in packed dirt and lifting a full heaping bucket of damp dirt was difficult. I soon found myself wanting a bigger tractor. I planned to upgrade to a dx29 until the dealer talked me into a dx33. I could not have been happier and owe my dealer big time.

Case DX33 - 72" mid mower, lx114 loader, quick attach bucket & pallet forks, post hole auger
This tractor makes by dx24 feel like a toy. I could not believe the difference in power. This is the tractor I should have bought in the first place. Plenty of power for loader work, plenty of lift for the loader as well as pallet forks. The 72" mower deck makes mowing my 4 acres a snap. It's still not overwhelming in size (although it did feel huge going from the 24) and I can get into all of the tight places that I was able to get to with my dx24. (sometimes not quite as easy though). I've put 84 hours on the tractor so far and couldn't be happier.

Final thoughts. When I bought the dx24 I was considering this or a Kubota BX23. I went with the dx24 due to the larger size and thought I was buying more than I needed. I soon found way more uses for the tractor than I imagined and ended up back at my dealer to upgrade to the 33. Happy hunting.

jk

 

[jk96]

One other note I forgot to mention. I have a 300 foot gravel drive and 150' x 200' gravel parking lot that I have to remove snow on using a rear blade. The dx24 often lost power in 2nd gear (hydro) with a heavy snow. First gear was just too slow for this size of area. Also, when using the rear blade to grade dirt, the tractor had plenty of power in first gear but would loose traction and pull sideways when the blade got full, even with the front loader attached for weight and using 4wd. My DX33 has plenty of weight and power for dirt work with the rear blade, can't wait for it to snow to tackle the parking lot.

jk

 

[jcmseven]

I just do not like the subcompact tractor as a concept. I know many posters buy them and have great luck and there are many quality sub-comp's out there. Honestly, I could probably get by with one myself, rather than what I have. I will cite the brand with which I have the most familiarity as an example: John Deere. When I was looking to trade my very nice and really handy X595 for a subcompact, I started to see that the price of the machine at the time (2210) was close to that of a 4110, which had a full Cat 1 hitch and was a heavier machine with better hydraulics. I eventually went to a mid frame, then to a large frame and then back to a mid frame (3720) which I have now. I love the machine. It truly is almost as compact in footprint as a 595 (seriously) and is five times the machine as the 2210 or 2305. It is, of course, a lot more expensive as well, which I had to weigh at the time of purchase. That said, I have no regrets. I use my tractor to finish mow at my parents and their lawn looks as good or better when I am done as it did when I mowed with the 595. The tractor does not tear up grass and will only leave a slight imprint on the turf even when wet. It will also shoot a brick (which was in the grass) about 150' out of the RFM chute, which I found scary but impressive. Realizing that our poster might be interested in looking at a smaller machine that can mow well and do other things, I would say a small frame compact--no matter which brand--would give him the best for his dollar. On average these machines are about 200-400 pounds heavier than a subcompact, come with the benefits (plus others) listed above and will carry better resale on average due to their ability to take full Cat 1 attachments, which the JD subcompact would not, and I assume some others would not either. These benefits come at an additional cost of about $2K-$3K in most cases, money which is absorbed over the lifetime of the tractor.

John M

 

[mr_shovel]

Well thanks for the advice guys. It all seems more overwhelming to me now.

Sound like my dream of a do-it-all machine was in fact, only a dream. Part of my buying justification was that I would not have to buy several other machines (mower, snow thrower, etc) and maintain all those motors with shorter life spans, etc.

Since I have little experience, and have only been a home/land owner for 1.5 months, maybe I will try a different approach. I will try to post a picture of my patch of dirt and see if anyone would suggest what they would use to maintain this property on a modest budget.

Lets see if If I can make this picture work.

 

[jk96]

Don't let me scare you away from the DX25. My DX24 was everything I expected it to be and more. If your only using it for the tasks you mentioned

Usage:
Mowing 1 acre
Snow removal: 350’ drive
Build-maintain some trails
Light landscaping, garden, maybe some fencing.

This machine will perform perfectly. My comments were only to let you know my experience, which was finding out once I got the tractor I found many more uses for it and realized the abuse I was putting my dx24 through would eventually lead to a shortened life. I think by adding a tooth bar, the digging ability of the FEL would be improved. Also, if your only maintaining a drive way for snow removal, and not a 30,000 sq/ft parking lot like I was it will do the job wonderfully.

jk

 

[Skipholiday]

What is your budget for the tractor?

Then look for the best bang for the buck~!

 

[Doc_Bob]

I I went with the dx24 due to the larger size and thought I was buying more than I needed. I soon found way more uses for the tractor than I imagined and ended up back at my dealer to upgrade to the 33. Happy hunting.

jk

I have no regrets getting a TN70A (used) versus a TC40DA new. I never go on the lawn (I have riding lawn mower) and I rarely do lot's of close in work that would benefit from HST and smaller frame. At times I wish I had a bigger tractor. But I will always want a bigger tractor
Bob

 

[TomKioti]

Mr. S,

I'd go with a compact as apposed to a Sub. It looks like most of your property is wooded with trails. If in the future you are considering clearing more of it then definately go a little bigger, I don't think you'll regret it. I also agree with the others a Z or conventional mower for the yard. It really depends on the future plans you have for your property i.e. a pond, more trails, more cleared areas or pastures. All these are things only you know.

Your place looks wonderful, i'm jealous

Good luck in your journey.

TomK

 

[mr_shovel]

What is your budget for the tractor?

Then look for the best bang for the buck~!

I had in mind $15k maximum. My truck is paid off so I have about $350 in the budget for now. This will change once I need a new vehicle which will be about 4 years as a guess.

I also figure I can get just what I need for now, and just add the "extras" when I have the need/money.

BTW, I love the best bang for the buck!!

 

[lawn_king]

For 15k you could get into a new B7510 w/fel for a little more you could jump up to the 7800 and up again to the 3030. Having owned a 75 & 3030, they are both fine machines and offer way more potential than any scut, JMHO, good luck & welcome to tbn.

 

[RalphVa]

You haven't mentioned whether your 8 acres are smooth or have hills, brush, etc. If any hills, valleys or brush, I'd look more seriously at tractors with more clearance and ones that don't have the hydraulic cooling fans underneath, as many of the smaller SCUTs have. I maintain trails along the creek and through the woods, mow a small field, do some brush hogging and remove snow from my 350' or so driveway with my JD 4010. My driveway is fairly level, and I can do it with turfs pushing my FEL or with a back blade. If your driveway is sloped much, you may need some chains or maybe R1 or R4 tires with metal screws into the outer part of the lugs. If I had a choice, I'd lean towards the R4 industrial tread tires.

Check out the Kubota "B" models or JD's 2320 or 2520. You might also look at the TYM SCUT if it's in your area.

Ralph

 

[Skipholiday]

I had in mind $15k maximum. My truck is paid off so I have about $350 in the budget for now. This will change once I need a new vehicle which will be about 4 years as a guess.

I also figure I can get just what I need for now, and just add the "extras" when I have the need/money.

BTW, I love the best bang for the buck!!

I know you weren't looking at John Deere but they have zero interest for 36 months until February 07.

2305 4-Wheel Drive Tractor $10,750.00
200CX Loader $2,740.00
62C In. Mid-Mount Side Discharge Mower $1,920.00
Configured Price: $15,410.00
For 36 months with zero interest your payment would be about $385 a month.
You could negotiate a better deal at your dealer, this is website figures.
I'm sure you could get a $1000 or better discount~!

John Deere 2305

 

[mr_shovel]

I am getting quotes of $15.5k for B7800 w/ loader.. Reasonable?

 

[Bob_Skurka]

I am getting quotes of $15.5k for B7800 w/ loader.. Reasonable?

HST or Gear? What options, if any? Does that include delivery? Etc.

Please also understand that pricing is very regional so a good price in New England is usually an outrageously bad price in the Midwest, etc.

 

[mr_shovel]

B7800 with industrial tires
LA402 loader
60" bucket
ballast box

$15,500.00 plus tax, delivered

I look on the spec sheet and i only see HST for an option

 

[jbrumberg]

mr shovel:

I liked the photo of your property. It made your requirements easier to understand. The B7800 is similar to my NH TC29DA as to clearance and performance. Knowing that your lawn tends to be wet the "B" being 700+ pounds lighter than the "TC" would have less impact on your lawn with unweighted R-4's if you intend to use a MMM. I believe the "B" has the power to do more than your stated immediate uses. You will probably need chains on the R-4's for snow removal as well as moving dirt when the need to move dirt arrives, but I would hold off on the chains until you discover what the tractor will do in the snow (global warming may help ). The price seems right to me. Can you get a 60" box blade thrown in to the deal instead of a ballast box? I spent a lot more for my new "TC", but I got a good trade-in on the old Ford 1100 and QA/HD bucket with a cutting blade thrown in. Now the readership can help you spend money on attachments !

 

[Bob_Young]

Hi Mr. Shovel,
I'm in your neck of the woods. I've had very good luck at Empire Tractor in Waterloo. Bought two Kubotas from them. No complaints yet. They carry NH as well.

As for your application, there's a couple of things worth mentioning. The smallest CUTs weigh about the same as the SCUTs but, with bigger tires, better ground clearance and a smoother ride. So, for the Kubotas (which I've studied the most), the B7510/7610 CUTs weigh about the same as a similarly equipped BX2350 and aren't much larger. If soft ground is an issue, you don't really hurt yourself by moving up to the smallest CUTs. With the bigger tires, a small CUT may actually have better flotation than the SCUT.

The price you've been quoted for the B7800 looks good to me. It should have the HP to do some serious slugging in those wooded areas. But it is a bigger and heavier tractor than either the BX or the B7510/7610. Amongst the trees and in other tight places where inches count, a smaller tractor is easier to live with.

Your quote for the B7800 w/FEL and ballast box is virtually the same as the one I got for a B7610 with loader, Mid-mount mower, and ballast box...a little closer to your one tractor do-it-all machine. Of course, with your open lawn, you probably don't need a mid-mount mower and could do just as well with a rear-finish mower saving around $1000 in the process.

So, running true to (TBN) form, I recommend you 'get what I got'....a B7610 w/turfs. Except substitute a RFM for the MMM and a rear blade for the ballast box. With that combination you can mow all summer in relative comfort and then, come winter, look old Man snow-belt Winter in the eye and say, "Go ahead, make my day.".....if you dare
FWIW
Bob

 

[Jimsntcrz]

I have 44 hours on this B7800 I paid $21,000 out the door..Top and tilt 3 spool hydraulics ran about $2,000 and California tax was about $1,800..Got the 3 year 0% financing...In three years I can sell this tractor for almost what I paid for it..
For Now I love this little sweety...

I have 7 acres in the Santa Cruz Mountains in CAlifornia...

Pics of my Orange love