Best fence options

/ Best fence options #1  

jmfox

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I'm also building a fence around 10 acres of land, primarily to let dogs run off leash. This is not the invisible type, but the tall and sturdy to possibly contain horses also. I would like to keep it deer friendly, economical and easily installed. I will be doing it myself and wondering what equipment/attachment is best. I have an ASV80.

jmf
 
/ Best fence options #2  
I did this with wood landscape timbers at 10' spacing and a woven wire fence with graduated vertical wire spacing. Keep the narrow slats at the bottom.

That being said, you will need a pto powered post hole digger, a shovel, a tamper, fence staples, a fence pliers, a fence stretcher, gates, a drill to install gate hinge pins and some brace wire. I took a roll of string, set it in loops to produce the 10' spacing, spray painted the multiple loops, then strung it around the property. I sprayed the ground where the paint marks were. Then drilled all the holes at once. Poles set, wire started, stretched, stapled and braced.

It may take you a day to run 1 roll of wire (330'), but the next day after you will do twice as much by working smarter. Then you will finish the 10 acres on the 4th day. Plan out your gate locations and set them first. For dogs, you need to run the wire close to the ground. Otherwise they may try to crawl or dig under it. For horses, I set the wire about 6" off the ground so they wouldn't get their hooves caught in it. Deer will jump this type of fence with ease.

I would not recommend setting posts in gravel, concrete or worry about exact post spacing. The dogs, horses and deer will not complain about this, and the extra work is cost in time and material. Don't splice the wire ends together. Just overlap at the closest post. Plan a head so that Martha Stuart doesn't notice. The treated landscape timbers are cheaper if you buy by the pallet, so plan ahead. Use Google Earth to measure the fence perimeter length. Its pretty accurate. I use a pipe attached to my loader bucket to carry the roll of wire while its being unrolled. That's the only troublesome task as far as I'm concerned. Have done 25 acres this way over the years.
 
/ Best fence options #4  
I am in South Louisiana where the water table is high and fence posts will always be in wet ground. The landscape timbers sold here are all rated for above-ground usage and will rot out in 3 years if used for fence posts. I use 2 or 3" round treated fence posts sold at the feed store that are more heavily treated and rated for in-ground usage. They are about the same price which is a lot cheaper than 4x4s which would be better but more expensive.

Depending on the soil conditions in your area it may not be advisable to use landscape timbers.
 
/ Best fence options #5  
jmfox said:
I'm also building a fence around 10 acres of land, primarily to let dogs run off leash. This is not the invisible type, but the tall and sturdy to possibly contain horses also. I would like to keep it deer friendly, economical and easily installed. I will be doing it myself and wondering what equipment/attachment is best. I have an ASV80.

jmf

I have 10 acres, perfectly square, 1 furlong (660 ft) per side. Next year I plan to install new fencing. I'm leaning to an all metal design-T-posts, 4-ft high farm fence, H-braces from salvaged 4" dia steel pipe. Fortunately I have a corner parcel so I only have 2 furlongs (1320 ft) of fence to install. The South and West fences belong to my neighbors.
 
/ Best fence options #6  
flusher said:
I have 10 acres, perfectly square, 1 furlong (660 ft) per side. Next year I plan to install new fencing. I'm leaning to an all metal design-T-posts, 4-ft high farm fence, H-braces from salvaged 4" dia steel pipe. Fortunately I have a corner parcel so I only have 2 furlongs (1320 ft) of fence to install. The South and West fences belong to my neighbors.

So you want a fence similar to this.:)
 

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/ Best fence options
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Great details from the been there done that people. What kind of cost should I expect to pay for woven wire fence and timbers?

jmf
 
/ Best fence options #8  
jmfox said:
Great details from the been there done that people. What kind of cost should I expect to pay for woven wire fence and timbers?

jmf

Sorry, don't remember the prices. What I do remember is 5280' of wire and 600 T posts.:eek:
 
/ Best fence options #9  
Economical = metal tpost and wood corenr posts and H braces or L braces.

I just did my 10ac a while back.

Pop corners in and brace, and then drop a H brace every so often.. 100-150' or so.. I used 20' spacing on my t-post.

Woven Field wire with a optional top strand of barb wire. some people don't like field wire for horses.. some do.. your choice. Field wire is strong, and economical. Next choice is 2x4 welded wire.. not as strong.. but 'safer' for horses.. but.. again.. not as strong. up from there is 2x4 woven wire.. strong and horse friendly.. but not wallet friendly.

I used barb wire 4 strands onmine.. but had no dogs to contain Tpost and wire hold in mules and cows.. so any of the wires i mentioned should be ok for your application.

Buy a fence stretch rig, and a set of PHD's.. and your wood corner posts. i reccomend the large 6-8x8 corners.. and braces can be 5-7 and peeler posts.... get some fence staples, and a good set of fence pliers.. a post pounder, and some twine to pull your line.. drive the truck down the line and have a helper toss out tpost ever 20' down the line.. One of you start pounding int he t-post while the other does the corner and brace holes. I like to 'bias' my corner posts leaning away from the fence pull.

You and a helper should be able to drop in a couple thosand foot of fence on a clear line a day easy. IE.. this can be a 2 day project at most for a gate and a rectangular fenceline with no clearing.. just digging, pounding unrolling and stretching.. etc. Then go back and clip the wire to the posts.. etc.

plan your gates WELL.

soundguy
 
/ Best fence options #10  
The man said 'possibly horses'. I'd never use T posts for horses because they learn how to walk them down and if they jump up to chase a fly, they will get punctured. T posts will need to be electrified for horses. That 10 acres of WORKING electric fence.

Barbed wire never stopped a horse until its too late. If you ever board other's horses, they will probably reneg when they see the wire. My treated landscape timbers have lasted 15+ years, even the ones in the swamp. New pallets I just purchased to run some lanes in my fields went for $1.50 a piece from Lowes last fall. That's a lot cheaper than 4x4's or 6' cedar, You set the landscape timber so the strong side is out, not sideways. (Yes, I've seen the geneous side of civilization).
 
/ Best fence options #11  
MtnViewRanch said:
So you want a fence similar to this.:)

Yep, pretty close. I like to stretch the farm fence between steel posts. Some folks use railroad ties as the verticals to anchor the fence, but I like the all-metal design.
 
/ Best fence options #12  
I have 5 acres of land with about 3 acres fenced for horses and a smaller area fenced as a backyard for dogs.

For the horse area we used round wood posts every 24' with two steel t-posts spaced in between each set of round wood posts. Each corner/end has a wider & longer (deeper) round wood post with a regular sized round wood post about 8' from it and then the two connected by a horizontal round wood post about 2/3 of the way up and held in with a large spike on each end.

We tacked/clipped on a 4" high 2"x4" woven (not welded) mesh that is specifically intended for horses so that it yields a little if hit (as opposed to breaking). The mesh is on the inside of the fense posts on the borders, and where it runs through paddocks, we put it on the side toward the most-used paddocks for strength.

A single electric fence wire runs over the top to protect the mess from getting smashed by the horse's rubbing. On the metal t-posts we used the elecric fence insulators that provides a full cap on each post to protect the horses from inury if they come down on them for some reason. We bought insulated wire to run under gates and complete the electric circuit. Our gates are all the tube-type - as opposed to the sheet steel type.

Its been in place for about 15 years now and so far its held up very well. I patterned my fence after years of looking at fencing around Iowa and Illinois, and the wood post with two metal spacer t-posts seems like a pretty common design that has stood the test of time - at least in the midwest.
 
/ Best fence options
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Fencing seems to be like an art form. The one thing I forgot to mention, is that my fence is in a densely wooded area. No driving along side and straight shots will be the exception.

jmf
 
/ Best fence options #15  
jmfox said:
Fencing seems to be like an art form. The one thing I forgot to mention, is that my fence is in a densely wooded area. No driving along side and straight shots will be the exception.

jmf

You will have to modify that...if you can not travel alongside your fence how will you maintain it???....:rolleyes:

With a gavaized steel fence, It only takes one falling branch to create an opening...

With an electric wire fence, It only takes heavy weed growth to ground it out...

Fencing is a job you will revisit more than you care to believe...:rolleyes: :D
 
/ Best fence options
  • Thread Starter
#16  
PaulChristenson said:
Fencing is a job you will revisit more than you care to believe...:rolleyes: :D

Noted. Should I be able to police on the outside or the inside, both?

jmf
 
/ Best fence options #17  
You may want to consider being able to mow along the fence line (meaning accessible by tractor) to make it easier for the horses to see the fence -- AND to keep them not as interested (meaning nothing worth trying to eat so why spend much time over here). My wife (the house horse expert) points out that you want gates/post joints should be built to discourage hoof capture. When looking at gates (and especially portable panels) look for the kind with hoops at each end. That helps to guide a hoof away from the junction.

In my area a lot of folks have field fence (the graduated woven wire) versus simple square (rectangular) wire for either keeping the smaller dogs in, or keeping the smaller critters out. A fence may also slow down fox, etc.

Smooth wire for horses, barbed for cattle (both often used as a topper, similar to the pics posted). T posts can be purchased in several colors, and sometimes different grades (buy heavier than lighter). Though green is most popular, make it easy on your horse (which will make it easier on you) and use the orange. Also, the yellow electric fence t post tops (as advised earlier). Horses are simple animals -- they do one thing well: run.

I bought several $3-10 tools for the clips used with t posts. They were all variations that had a hole in the side and/or in the end, some with a joint in them, that you inserted the clip into and wrapped it around the t post. I found the simplest one was the best. ~3-4" long, it has a slightly flattened end with a hole or two in it, and the other end of the cylinder (1/4-3/8" diameter) is hollow. This works wonders for installing t post clips, especially on field fence (stranded wire has a lot of room around it for twisting the clip around it, woven/fabric fence has lots going on around it).

As in t post, buy the heavier grade fence wire. You will not regret not having to go out and stretch it as often. Also, I happened across a little wire stretcher the grips one strand of wire at a time. Works great when used with a cheap (old deer hunting) block and tackle. Using your tractor is faster of course.

You have an ASV, I believe that is a skid steer? I would visit the local skid steer dealers and see if anyone rents a hydraulic post hole digger and get 'er done. Also, they (Stanley, others) make a hydraulic t post driver. If you can rent one of those, many your pecs will forgive you (watched a fence builder use one, I am sure he thought the ~$1500 was very well spent).

WEAR HEARING PROTECTION when using a post driver. You will be building arm muscles if you are driving them by hand.

Priefert has a new brand of fence called Diamond P that is very impressive. Diamond P Fence Powder Coated Ranch Rail by Priefert Rodeo & Ranch Equipment

It is wood posts with steel rails that have slip joints in them. Not cheap, but looks very easy (they hog the holes in the posts for angles and made the rails to handle a range of pressure for a curve). Can be ordered in various rail configurations. Talked to them at the Denver Stock Show this January. Would make a great front fence (we are planning on doing this).
 
/ Best fence options #18  
jmfox said:
Noted. Should I be able to police on the outside or the inside, both?

jmf

Well if its for horses...you probably want to pull the fenceline back from the property line, so you don't have problems with your neighbors, if your horses start hanging out along the fenceline and put their heads over the fence...:rolleyes:

Find the threads that discuss fence mowing equipment...
 
/ Best fence options
  • Thread Starter
#19  
mojoinco said:
Priefert has a new brand of fence called Diamond P that is very impressive... Talked to them at the Denver Stock Show this January. Would make a great front fence (we are planning on doing this).

I like this option for horses but I'm wondering how well it will work for dogs. Maybe all I will need is protection for the first 3 feet (notice the closed mesh on the right).

jmf

sml_00_ponderosa_04.jpg
 
/ Best fence options #20  
A fence for both dogs and horses really means woven wire. While the woven wire will work well for the dogs, woven wire is less than ideal for horses. Barbed wire is absolutely a no go unless you like Vet bills.

When using woven wire for horses, PLEASE use only woven wire especially designed for horses. This kind of fencing has very small openings to preclude the horse from putting its hoof through the fence and injuring itself.

Examples are posted on this site Horse Fencing Systems for the Equine Industry - RAMM

I used Ramm's Flex-Fence and love it. Easy to erect and care for, and easy on the horses too.

Like several others who have posted, I like to use round posts for my fencing ... horses are powerful, inquisitive creatures and they will often test a fence. T-Posts are OK, but will need at least one strand of electrified wire to keep the horses away.

If you use wooden posts, I recommend using one 60lb bag of concrete for each line post and two bags for each corner post. Unless your ground is very dry, there is no need to mix the concrete. Just dump the bag into the bottom of the hole, maybe add a bit of water, then fill in with dirt.
 
 
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