Box Scraper Best Box Blade For My Money

[hcf]

Just bought a used Modern Mfg. box blade from Craigslist. I used SearchTempest to find CL ads for box blades - much faster than manually clicking on every nearby town and then clicking on Farm & Garden. Modern Mfg makes very heavy, heavy, and light duty equipment and a lot of it is hot dip galvanized. There were dozens of bb listed within a 1/2 days drive. Most were wrong size and/or rusty pieces of doo, but by searching through all the ads for a couple of weeks I ended up with a much nicer bb than I could afford to buy new. Being a low tech piece of equipment you can pretty much tell by looking what condition it is in, as opposed to anything with a gearbox where you have no idea about the condition of the gears. Good luck.

 

[hcf]

Was out using the box blade today without the rippers installed. Number of times I wished I had the rippers = 0. Number of times I wished I had a hydraulic lift arm to tilt the bb = 50+.

 

[DPTURBO29]

Amen, to the TnT suggestion. I'm going to have the tractor outfitted with enough remotes and then I'll probably be hollering at Mtn View about a TnT setup. I'd almost rather grade with a hoe than be crawling up and down constantly to crank on the linkage (probably overstating this a bit).

 

[schmism]

my .02

Get the least expensive one you can that will do what you want. you need it to cover the rear wheels of the tractor. Take the left over money and buy a TNT to go with it.

Given the 2 choices, Inexpensive BB and TNT.... or expensive HD box blade and NO TNT.... Id ALWAYS pick the first.

Its easy to weld on weight (like RR rail or cinder blocks, plate steel, suitcase weights, etc)

 

[PhysAssist]

I have a 5' Gill medium duty that I bought off my neighbor for $200. I'm not sure how good of a BB it is compared to others because it is the only one I have ever used. But if you notice one thing in most of the pictures that guys have posted, is Top-N-Tilt kits. They will change your life if you use a box blade enough.

Or you could just get the rollover BB as suggested by MtnView and now seconded by me... It negates the "need" for a TnT kit by using the design of the blade to decide what function you're going to get out of it, vs. needing to re-adjust the angle of the box to manipulate which of the blades or scarifier is in contact with the ground.

If for some reason you end up getting a "stationary" BB give serious thought to getting one with a hinged back blade, and if it isn't lockable, plan to change the so you can either lock it up or lock it down,

We LOVE our 48" Gannon Earthcavator Roll-Over BB because it makes our little B2320 without rear remotes able to do way more than we thought it would ever be able to in grading, excavating, smoothing, rebuilding/reparing our driveway and finishing the newly excavated/regraded banks of our pond to the point of being ready for seeding. The learning curve for the RO BB's seems to be significantly flatter and shorter than the standard models.

As always, YMMV and the management disavows any opinions expressed by the meat-puppet tapping semi-randomly on the magic glass screen...

 

[1savoy]

I don't know if you have seen the Dirt Dog prices/ spec's on eBay, but it will give you an idea on price. Looks like the roll-over is only rated for 45 hp in 4wd. This is supposedly the maker for the Bush Hog brand also. Second link is the Dirt Dog with manual retractable shanks and is good for 55 hp. Good luck with the shopping.

Russ

Dirt Dog Ro 84 84" Heavy Duty 3 Point Rollover Box Blade | eBay

Dirt Dog RBX 84 84" Heavy Duty 3 Point Box Blade for Utility Tractors | eBay

 

[bubbacuse77]

Saying a rollover BB negates the need for a TnT is simply not correct sir. A rollover my save you the time of removing the tines and installing them but mainly the Top function on a Top and tilt is ideal for adjusting the angle that the strait blade of the BB enters the material and the Tilt function, well, it tilts and saves you all the time of constantly getting on and off your tractor to adjust the draft bar. I think ideally you would have a rollover if you thought you needed to remove and install the scarifiers often enough to save you the time and effort.

I don't believe what Mountain View Ranch said was, get a rollover and skip the TnT. Mountain view Ranch may be the largest supporter of TnTs on this web site..................he sells them.

 

[PhysAssist]

Saying a rollover BB negates the need for a TnT is simply not correct sir. A rollover my save you the time of removing the tines and installing them but mainly the Top function on a Top and tilt is ideal for adjusting the angle that the strait blade of the BB enters the material and the Tilt function, well, it tilts and saves you all the time of constantly getting on and off your tractor to adjust the draft bar. I think ideally you would have a rollover if you thought you needed to remove and install the scarifiers often enough to save you the time and effort.

I don't believe what Mountain View Ranch said was, get a rollover and skip the TnT. Mountain view Ranch may be the largest supporter of TnTs on this web site..................he sells them.

Hey Bubbacuse,

I do have to kind of agree with your point about the tilt, but we do not often find any need to tilt or angle our blade very often (though that could be because we don't have TnT and we DO have a ROBB ).

But regarding your point about using the top link adjustment for changing the box blade's angle of engagement- that's more of an issue with the standard (nonrollover) BB's because of the need to accurately/carefully manage the angle of the BB to control which of and how the dual blades and/or scarifiers engage.

With the rollovers, because of the ability to engage the blades and/or the scarifiers separately, the top link doesn't require adjustment often (if at all) in order to achieve the desired result.

For us in particular, the roll-over BB has essentially been a set and forget tool, allowing us to concentrate on doing the job, and not adjusting the angle of approach.

I know that Mr. MtnView is an advocate for TnT on tractors where it will add needed utility and be used often, but one of the reasons that he is respected so well here, is that even though he manufactures/builds them, he isn't fanatically trying to sell them to every person on TBN who has a 3-pt implement on their tractor.

As I have said before, he is one of the several folks who, on my long review of past posts on TBN while lurking and not posting, have virtually always offered considered and balanced advice without beating a topic/viewpoint into the ground, or being overbearing.

In my case, and perhaps the OP's as well (although I don't pretend to be clairvoyant enough to know his/her particular needs or situation), it may not be necessary to have TnT, if using the inherent abilities of the rollover BB suffices to give adequate control and function, and it (TnT) is a not an insignifianct expenditure.

Add to these facts/benefits, the substantial weight and pretty much uniformly heavy-duty construction of the average roll-over BB, and it's a pretty good starter package for someone new to using 3-point implements for grading.

In my case, my prior experience with tractors was disking/plowing/etc., as a kid on my uncle's farm with single hitch/draw bar farmalls and the like, and none with 3-point hitches, yet within a very short time, I was able to start to use our ROBB (I think) reasonably effectively to perform all its advertised functions in a variety of substrates and settings- grading the clay banks of our pond, ripping and digging topsoil to move and use as fill, leveling our pot holed gravel driveway and spreading new gravel among others.

Further, my wife, who is somewhat mobility-impaired, and who had never before operated a tractor, was also able to learn how to use it after only a very brief tutorial (thanks for the videos EA!).

Thomas

PS: I must add that I also do not pretend to know what Mr. MtnView was thinking or his intent when posting, except for the overt advice he offered.....

Thomas

 

[Arc weld]

Woods makes several models and also purchased the Gannon and Gill lines. I bought my Frontier/Woods from the JD dealer because there was no shipping fee to bring it in. I can live with the green paint to save at least a couple hundred bucks on shipping.

 

[bubbacuse77]

WOW- I'm out, not cool, to come into a forum and discount others ideas and posts then defend your way as the only way. The fella who started this forum just wanted advice on what works for others.

 

[TripleR]

WOW- I'm out, not cool, to come into a forum and discount others ideas and posts then defend your way as the only way. The fella who started this forum just wanted advice on what works for others.

I hate to see you go, I figure if there was a "best" that's what we would all have.

 

[PhysAssist]

WOW- I'm out, not cool, to come into a forum and discount others ideas and posts then defend your way as the only way. The fella who started this forum just wanted advice on what works for others.

"...Saying a rollover BB negates the need for a TnT is simply not correct sir...."

"...I don't believe what Mountain View Ranch said was, get a rollover and skip the TnT..."

Mr. Bubbacuse,

If I came across at all the way you are stating :sorry:, I humbly and absolutely apologize to you and everyone else involved in this discussion :loser: [=me] [not you]; but I honestly felt that you were the one discounting others [me] and defending your worldview as the only correct one :irked:.

My response to you was only intended to engage you in discussing/debating the questions you raised :listen:, but whatever :jaded:....

....and all I was sharing was my personal experience with one small tractor and one type of implement ath:, not saying that my way was the only way :muted:.

I certainly wasn't discounting anyone else's ideas or posts :ziplip:, just answering your criticisms of my thoughts as expressed here uch:.

Sorry to all :embarrassed:,
Thomas

PS: Best for me would've been a tractor a coupla sizes up with all the bells and whistles, but since our little B2320 was the biggest and best we could afford to buy, it is what we have :cloud9::tractor:....

 

[PhysAssist]

But after re-reading my prior posts here, I also feel that I should aplogize for being so long-winded!

Sorry,
Thomas
:ashamed:

 

[MtnViewRanch]

PhysAssist, do you have any remotes on your tractor? While a hydraulic top link is not really needed for use with a ROBB, having a hydraulic side link sure is nice. :thumbsup:

 

[PhysAssist]

PhysAssist, do you have any remotes on your tractor? While a hydraulic top link is not really needed for use with a ROBB, having a hydraulic side link sure is nice. :thumbsup:

Hi MtnView,

Sorry to have taken your name in vain [if I in fact did so...:embarrassed:] but while I know that you are a big advocate of TnT :salute:, I was also pretty sure that you don't/didn't think it was the only answer to everyone's 3-pt hitch usage :wink:.

No I don't have any hydraulics except the FEL and 3-pt hitch .

I'm pretty that if I had them, then I'd find myself not wanting to be without them , but.... my current funds are pretty well commited to getting flooring and electricity in our recently acquired pole garage/barn :mischievous:.

Would the sidelink [for the ROBB] be useful for much besides angling the blade to create a crown in my driveway :confused3:?

Thanks,
Thomas

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Hi MtnView,

Sorry to have taken your name in vain [if I in fact did so...:embarrassed:] but while I know that you are a big advocate of TnT :salute:, I was also pretty sure that you don't/didn't think it was the only answer to everyone's 3-pt hitch usage :wink:.

No I don't have any hydraulics except the FEL and 3-pt hitch .

I'm pretty that if I had them, then I'd find myself not wanting to be without them , but.... my current funds are pretty well commited to getting flooring and electricity in our recently acquired pole garage/barn :mischievous:.

Would the sidelink [for the ROBB] be useful for much besides angling the blade to create a crown in my driveway :confused3:?

Thanks,
Thomas

You are correct, "TnT" is not the answer for all 3pt use. It is a huge thing IMO when it comes to about any type of grading though. Without knowing what all you use your tractor for, I can't fairly say if you would make good use of it or not.

When I first got my 3215, it only had the single OEM remote. First thing that I put on was the hydraulic side link. For me with my ROBB, that was the T of the "TnT" that I needed the most. Like has been said, with a ROBB, there just is no need to have to adjust the top link once it is set, but I use the side tilt all the time. It all depends on what a person has for implements and what it is that they are trying to do.

 

[PhysAssist]

Thanks!
T

 

[sd455dan]

after reading the the thread I would suggest a New version of the Gannon, or better yet find a used one.
The only reason i ended up with a 76 inch high back , Gannon bb was two previous potential purchasers turned it down because it was just to heavy, and the 3 point wouldn't lift it.

That's the beauty of the commercial Gannon/ Woods, all the extra weight helps it do its work and makes them virtually indestructible.
With the length of your driveway and size of the proposed property, I think you would be doing yourself a disservice by not buying a unit that is up to the long term use it will probably be used for. I would look for the 76 inch or 84 inch width unit..

Mine is the 76 inch unit and is about right for my 45 hp tractor might be a little small for the 55 hp 4x4 tractor there are probably other units as well built (the weight gives them away) most Gannons are right at a 1000# my 02 cents

 

[DPTURBO29]

Update:

Thank you all for your input. Earlier this week I purchased a Frontier BB3284 box blade. I ended up purchasing this model for three reasons: 1. It's heavy construction 2. Hinged rear blade 3. The fact that it was able to be financed along with my new 5065E tractor and qualified for a $1500 implement credit. I think I got a pretty good blade - now I just need to learn how to use it, ha! I'm pretty decent with most equipment, but my grading experience has been limited.

Thanks again,

DP

 

[Sackett2]

Looking at cost vs function IMO:
I have a cheap Box Blade, got it on sale for 100.00; added a real cutting blade to it and some rr iron. it works very well for me even with the cracks in it due to the thin metal. With your potential acreage, I would spend extra money and buy a HEAVY unit; if that is out of your budget a lighter one will do a nice job.
The Top and Tilt is a AMAZING feature for your tractor. I haven't bought the "Tilt" yet, but the "Top" has increased the flexibility of all accessories. from adjusting the cut of the box blade to increasing the cut of the tiller or lifting the brush hog higher to untangle wire- a worth while upgrade.