Rear Blade bent scraper blade for snow removal

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It seems that many manufacturers have reverted to break bending their mold boards as opposed to rolling them to acquire a radiused surface. Obviously this is a cost saving measure which is fine if it works. Currently have a Woods with a 14" high curved scraper blade that snow rolls over constantly with an 8-10"event . I've attempted all kind of settings but with the soft snow, it just spills over. As I do not feel like spending a thousand bucks or more on a heavy duty blade that will be strictly used for snow work, I was wondering if anyone is using the bent type blade for snow and if it's working out for you. Thanks

 

[bigtiller]

I have a new Land Pride blade that the snow slid off real easy. I think it is because the paint is new and slick. Maybe if you horsed the moldboard up onto the bench you could sand it smooth and give it a few coats of paint. By the time it snows again the paint will have cured nice and hard and maybe it will clean it's self out much better.

 

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I have a new Land Pride blade that the snow slid off real easy. I think it is because the paint is new and slick. Maybe if you horsed the moldboard up onto the bench you could sand it smooth and give it a few coats of paint. By the time it snows again the paint will have cured nice and hard and maybe it will clean it's self out much better.

Could be Tiller. But my Mahindra 3016 with me driving it destroyed this current blade I have. Mounting bolt is broken. It even has puckers where the cutting edge bolts to. This is 1/4" thick metal with puckers. I don't know how that happened. I like the LandPride stuff but $975 before freight for the 6' RB26 was a bit rich for my blood. Can even offset it w/o unbolting the entire blade and sliding it over.

 

[Apsterbobed]

Rear blades aren't very good for moving snow, if you look at truck snow plows they are about 30" tall and the snow still goes over the top with an 8" storm. You also need some speed to get the snow to roll especially with the fluffy stuff witch is hard to do with a tractor in reverse.

 

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Rear blades aren't very good for moving snow, if you look at truck snow plows they are about 30" tall and the snow still goes over the top with an 8" storm. You also need some speed to get the snow to roll especially with the fluffy stuff witch is hard to do with a tractor in reverse.

Been using a rear blade for years. Doesn't do a bad job but mostly always pull it. You are right about the speed though even moving forward. Curved blades do much better but the bent one's are cheaper. Looking for someone with experience with the bent blade for snow to see if it will suffice.

 

[Apsterbobed]

Unfortunately I can't tell you how a bent blade will work, I have an old worksaver that is curved. I used to plow with just the rear blade and bucket but it's slow because of all the spill over whether your pulling or pushing. If snow is the only use for the rear blade then I wouldn't bother, your better off with an over sized bucket for the loader. I'm not sure how wide your standard bucket is but go with something a couple feet wider in a high volume style. You can move and stack alot more snow and in the summer it can be used for mulch, manure, and other fluffy materials. If you do have other uses for the blade my only suggestion would be get the tallest and widest that your tractor can pull, the taller the better when it comes to snow. I plow with a truck now and the best use for the back blade is garage doors! After I have most of the driveways cleaned up I open all the garage, barn, and pasture doors, then all I have to do is back in to clean them out, almost no shoveling.

 

[woodchipper]

My back blade is a Land Pride with a rolled mould board. To answer your question, if it is bent, instead of rolled, I would not expect to see any major difference.
As allready pointed out, what will make a difference in snow, is the mould board height, the total amount of projected angle(of the roll, or bending), the travelling speed, the "slipperyness" of the mould board, and the relative angle of the blade from the tractor. If the blade is parallel to the tractor, the snow will bundle between the tractor and the blade in no time. The heavyer/wetter the snow, the greater this angle should be. The greater the angle, the shorter the working width of the blade. Trade offs...

 

[arrow]

My back blade is a Land Pride with a rolled mould board. To answer your question, if it is bent, instead of rolled, I would not expect to see any major difference.
As allready pointed out, what will make a difference in snow, is the mould board height, the total amount of projected angle(of the roll, or bending), the travelling speed, the "slipperyness" of the mould board, and the relative angle of the blade from the tractor. If the blade is parallel to the tractor, the snow will bundle between the tractor and the blade in no time. The heavyer/wetter the snow, the greater this angle should be. The greater the angle, the shorter the working width of the blade. Trade offs...

I once made a front plow for another tractor by bending it. The difference was that my middle section was as long as the upper and lower section of the plow. Snow rolled nicely with this design. The bends on the mold boards of the bent scrapers are not this way. The middle section is much larger. Basically beyond that i don't know what to think. I just didn't want to invest in a new blade and run into the same problem.
It appears the safest bet is to invest in a rolled blade with a higher moldboard even if it costs a grand.

 

[94BULLITT]

What blade do you have? Is it a Woods RB? I use a RB60 behind the BX and snow comes over it but I do use it backwards. I use a HBL84 on the 4240 and the snow does not come over it as easily.

Do you have SSQA on your tractor? You could rig up a plow on the loader pretty easily.

 

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What blade do you have? Is it a Woods RB? I use a RB60 behind the BX and snow comes over it but I do use it backwards. I use a HBL84 on the 4240 and the snow does not come over it as easily.

Do you have SSQA on your tractor? You could rig up a plow on the loader pretty easily.

It is a Woods RB72. Boy did it get mangled this year. I rigged up a snow pusher for the front end as I have spread out parking areas to plow out. The blade is for the 150' driveway part. Your HBL has good moldboard height. Where I used to have need for the rear blade for dirt work, I do not anymore so I didn't want to spend on a heavy duty unit. Unfortunately, it's these units that have the tallest blade height which is advantageous for snow work.

The Rhino 5006 has a 16"height, (which I think Dirt Dog makes for them) seems like a nice one but it too is over a grand after shipping.

The best "value" at $700 seems to be the EveryThing Attachments Deluxe blade however this is using a 2 bend blade rather than a rolled.

 

[94BULLITT]

It is a Woods RB72. Boy did it get mangled this year. I rigged up a snow pusher for the front end as I have spread out parking areas to plow out. The blade is for the 150' driveway part. Your HBL has good moldboard height. Where I used to have need for the rear blade for dirt work, I do not anymore so I didn't want to spend on a heavy duty unit. Unfortunately, it's these units that have the tallest blade height which is advantageous for snow work.

The Rhino 5006 has a 16"height, (which I think Dirt Dog makes for them) seems like a nice one but it too is over a grand after shipping.

The best "value" at $700 seems to be the EveryThing Attachments Deluxe blade however this is using a 2 bend blade rather than a rolled.

A Woods RB is not enough blade for your tractor which I guess you learned. The blades rated for 40hp are not that heavy duty. If I was buying a blade for your tractor I would get one rated for a tractor up to 75hp. You can probably get a 6' blade like a Tuffline GB4 for $1200 or 1300 and your tractor will not hurt it. You might get lucky and watch around and find a nice used heavy duty blade before next winter. I am not very happy with my Woods HBL84 it has a lot of slop in it.

 

[Xfaxman]

---- But my Mahindra 3016 with me driving it destroyed this current blade I have. Mounting bolt is broken. It even has puckers where the cutting edge bolts to. This is 1/4" thick metal with puckers. I don't know how that happened. ------------

The only way it could pucker the cutting edge mounting holes, is the force at the bottom of the cutting edge from hitting stuff while moving forward. The cutting edge would try to pivot, pulling on the mounting bolts, bending the metal in.

Did the bottom of the blade bend, where I added the arrow on the left of the drawing?

From: Pat's Power Eq.

 

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The only way it could pucker the cutting edge mounting holes, is the force at the bottom of the cutting edge from hitting stuff while moving forward. The cutting edge would try to pivot, pulling on the mounting bolts, bending the metal in.

Did the bottom of the blade bend, where I added the arrow on the left of the drawing?

View attachment 418371

From: Pat's Power Eq.

Thanx Fax for all of your help with this including my pm to know if a shop press would work on this. No, to answer your question about bottom impact. There is a slight kink at the "top" pf the blade where the no.1 is. I think i did that a long time ago when it caught behind a tree. The force necessary or the cutting edge to "pivot", I would first think the tractor would have been stopped cold. At any rate, it is what it is. This blade seems to be weak for the tractor but before sold it, I would want to completely recondition it and that includes getting rid of the bends and puckers.

 

[UTCenturion]

here is a video of my cheapo angle blade working in 2 inches of snow. It is a bent blade not a continuous curve. I did notice the angle was required to make it slide off. The more angle the less it covered the tire tracks. realistically for this maneuver probably should have gotten a 7' or 8' for the 6 foot wheel base because at an angle it is not nearly as wide. And the more angle it would probably slide off more effectively.

 

[arrow]

here is a video of my cheapo angle blade working in 2 inches of snow. It is a bent blade not a continuous curve. I did notice the angle was required to make it slide off. The more angle the less it covered the tire tracks. realistically for this maneuver probably should have gotten a 7' or 8' for the 6 foot wheel base because at an angle it is not nearly as wide. And the more angle it would probably slide off more effectively.

Thanks for this UT. I notice you have some "rolling" going on. Although you're in Tennessee and odds are lower, have you gotten any dry, fluffy stuff?

 

[Xfaxman]

Thanx Fax for all of your help with this including my pm to know if a shop press would work on this. No, to answer your question about bottom impact. There is a slight kink at the "top" pf the blade where the no.1 is. I think i did that a long time ago when it caught behind a tree. The force necessary or the cutting edge to "pivot", I would first think the tractor would have been stopped cold. At any rate, it is what it is. This blade seems to be weak for the tractor but before sold it, I would want to completely recondition it and that includes getting rid of the bends and puckers.

You are welcome, It would take a large press frame, twice as wide as the blade is high, to remove the puckers.

I would remove the cutting edge and try using a grade 8 fine thread bolt with a washer on each side and an impact wrench to flatten each hole.

Please post some pictures of it.

 

[Dr_Zinj]

Strange. I've used the back blade a couple of snow seasons and the only problem I had was hooking a boulder, coming to an abrupt stop, and bending mount where the blade connects to the 3pt mount.

 

[arrow]

You are welcome, It would take a large press frame, twice as wide as the blade is high, to remove the puckers.

I would remove the cutting edge and try using a grade 8 fine thread bolt with a washer on each side and an impact wrench to flatten each hole.

Please post some pictures of it.

I shall and it IS rather strange.