Always fun opening up the old logging trails on the steep hills on my land in southern Ohio.Ya, it was a few weeks ago Amazsona did a price drop and I grabbed three of them. I did post it here in trail tools and clearing thread...
Always fun opening up the old logging trails on the steep hills on my land in southern Ohio.Ya, it was a few weeks ago Amazsona did a price drop and I grabbed three of them. I did post it here in trail tools and clearing thread...
Pole-saws are your freind. I think I have three now.Always fun opening up the old logging trails on the steep hills on my land in southern Ohio.
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Old loggin roads on steep hills are often a problem on my property. The roads often sit in the bottom of a bit of a depression (leftover from previous erosion). The gully-washing storms we've been getting just run right down the road and tear things up. Most of the time I end up having to reroute the ones on steep hillsAlways fun opening up the old logging trails on the steep hills on my land in southern Ohio.
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Never ending battle in the hills, anything that makes driving easier becomes the easiest way for water to move.Old loggin roads on steep hills are often a problem on my property. The roads often sit in the bottom of a bit of a depression (leftover from previous erosion). The gully-washing storms we've been getting just run right down the road and tear things up. Most of the time I end up having to reroute the ones on steep hills
Any new trails I'm building I try to route so there is less than a 10% grade - less than 7% if I can get away with it. When under 10%, I can usually make a broad-based dip work for erosion control. (I can drive right through a broad-based dip, unlike a good waterbar, which often is more than some of my vehicles can handle.) It makes for longer trails, but done right they take MUCH less maintenance to keep up.Never ending battle in the hills, anything that makes driving easier becomes the easiest way for water to move.
True but even those trails need to kept free any obstruction that cause water to flow down or across during a 10" rainfall will do lots of damage. I'm good at restoring and grading trails...... 20 years of practice..Any new trails I'm building I try to route so there is less than a 10% grade - less than 7% if I can get away with it. When under 10%, I can usually make a broad-based dip work for erosion control. (I can drive right through a broad-based dip, unlike a good waterbar, which often is more than some of my vehicles can handle.) It makes for longer trails, but done right they take MUCH less maintenance to keep up.
Dad has a tractor he usually can take care of them grading and doing the wash outs etc. But one year called in a friend with his bulldozer to straighten things out up there. Plus a creek on the flat too.Old loggin roads on steep hills are often a problem on my property. The roads often sit in the bottom of a bit of a depression (leftover from previous erosion). The gully-washing storms we've been getting just run right down the road and tear things up. Most of the time I end up having to reroute the ones on steep hills
Pretty county. A lot like here....Dad has a tractor he usually can take care of them grading and doing the wash outs etc. But one year called in a friend with his bulldozer to straighten things out up there. Plus a creek on the flat too.
Top looking out.
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Put a tracker on it at CamelCamelCamel.com to get an email when price drops to something interesting.Ya, it was a few weeks ago Amazsona did a price drop and I grabbed three of them. I did post it here in trail tools and clearing thread...