Battery powered chainsaw

   / Battery powered chainsaw #431  
   / Battery powered chainsaw #432  
Also, have you guys tried this.... I had a contractor/farmer in his sixties tell me about this. He said he does it all the time. Uses a fully charged car battery. But take the battery out of the car. Don't do it still hooked up to the car. I haven't tried it yet but I have two Kobalt batteries that died an early death, I'm going to try it on.

 
   / Battery powered chainsaw #433  
I'm my experience, the lower voltage saws, have progressively lower speed. Design or not, that's just a fact. 40v were slower than 60v and the 80v is by far the fastest of the electric saws I've used. The 40v saws I've used you can almost see the teeth moving 😂
Yes, but it is planned feature-itis. They'll make 100V tools as soon as 80V sales peak.

Voltage is not difficult to make. I don't respect brands such as Greenworks, Worx, and others who create deliberate pricing tiers based on voltage. Heaps of respect for EGo who decided everything will be 56V and makes batteries of different capacities but compatible with every EGo tool.

DeWalt did good for a while sticking with 20V but then felt forced to create more-premium tools at 60V, and budget tools at 12V. Don't doubt there are real engineering advantages to 60V vs 20V, but have you seen the holes their premium 20V drill will make?
 
   / Battery powered chainsaw #434  
I have used EGo 16" and 18" saws. The 18" is significantly more powerful than the 16".

Got my 18" pre-COVID on sale for $250 with 5Ah battery and charger.
 
   / Battery powered chainsaw #435  
For the record... I have an 80v Kobalt weed eater that I've used a few times over the past three years. Every time I go to use it I'm dealing with a different issue. I used the EGO 56v last weekend and I think it blazed the Kobalt's performance. I was taking out large weeds with stalks very large, no problem. I've owned gas weed eaters that would have stalled on those weeds.
 
   / Battery powered chainsaw #436  
Also, have you guys tried this.... I had a contractor/farmer in his sixties tell me about this. He said he does it all the time. Uses a fully charged car battery. But take the battery out of the car. Don't do it still hooked up to the car. I haven't tried it yet but I have two Kobalt batteries that died an early death, I'm going to try it on.

I had a couple batteries that I got to take a charge by plugging them in to the charger for a short time - like 5 seconds - then unplugging them, repeat about 10 times; during that initial few seconds the battery is being charged and checked, so the charger will charge a "too low" battery, but if you leave one of these goner batteries in the battery doesn't have enough charge after the initial period and the charger will say "nope". By unplugging it before then, then plug it back in, the charger resets and tries again, so you gradually get a minute or so of charge which may be enough to put you over the minimum to charge. In my case, 2 out of 3 batteries "came back to life" this way. The third? still dead.

By using another battery, you may be able to get it from lower (maybe I just wasn't patient enough), but it's definitely dangerous as these batteries can catch fire if mis-charged, and a direct line from eg a car battery is definitely mischarging.
 
   / Battery powered chainsaw #437  
Yes, but it is planned feature-itis. They'll make 100V tools as soon as 80V sales peak.

Voltage is not difficult to make. I don't respect brands such as Greenworks, Worx, and others who create deliberate pricing tiers based on voltage. Heaps of respect for EGo who decided everything will be 56V and makes batteries of different capacities but compatible with every EGo tool.

DeWalt did good for a while sticking with 20V but then felt forced to create more-premium tools at 60V, and budget tools at 12V. Don't doubt there are real engineering advantages to 60V vs 20V, but have you seen the holes their premium 20V drill will make?
Higher voltage = lower current.
Lower voltage for the same power will require more current, which will require heavier wires and generate more heat, so yes, more voltage is better.
 
   / Battery powered chainsaw #438  
I have the EGO 16" with the 5.0 amp battery and it cuts very well. It has become my goto saw.
 
   / Battery powered chainsaw #439  
I had a couple batteries that I got to take a charge by plugging them in to the charger for a short time - like 5 seconds - then unplugging them, repeat about 10 times; during that initial few seconds the battery is being charged and checked, so the charger will charge a "too low" battery, but if you leave one of these goner batteries in the battery doesn't have enough charge after the initial period and the charger will say "nope". By unplugging it before then, then plug it back in, the charger resets and tries again, so you gradually get a minute or so of charge which may be enough to put you over the minimum to charge. In my case, 2 out of 3 batteries "came back to life" this way. The third? still dead.

By using another battery, you may be able to get it from lower (maybe I just wasn't patient enough), but it's definitely dangerous as these batteries can catch fire if mis-charged, and a direct line from eg a car battery is definitely mischarging.

I had a Ryobi 20V battery that would not take a charge. It was used until it stopped, then put away for a month or so. When i tried to charge it, nope not doing that.

So on Youtube i saw the fix, take it apart, apply a low voltage to the provided terminals and the slowly increase the voltage until you get close to the battery nominal voltage, then put it in the charger. Worked for me.
 
   / Battery powered chainsaw #440  
I'm my experience, the lower voltage saws, have progressively lower speed. Design or not, that's just a fact. 40v were slower than 60v and the 80v is by far the fastest of the electric saws I've used. The 40v saws I've used you can almost see the teeth moving 😂
Changing the voltage on a DC motor will general change the speed of that particular motor, but that is not all there is to it. They may have geared it up or used a different winding on the motor to achieve a different speed.

Something I always shake my head at when a tester just measures the RPM of the shaft: the chain speed also depends on the size of the drive sprocket. None of them seem to be taking that into account. Swapping the drive sprocket is a common way for someone to tweak the performance of a chainsaw to adjust the tradeoff between torque and chain speed.

For example, when looking at the RPMs of the four small saws in the Project Farm video, the Milwaukee has the lowest shaft RPM, but look at the diameter of the drive sprocket: it's significantly larger than all of the others in that category. I doubt it's enough to bring the chain speed up to where the Stihl saw is. however, the greater torque of the Milwaukee more than makes up for it, allowing more pressure to be put on the saw for a faster cut - which is why it handily beats the Stihl despite the Milwaukee's lower RPM (and probably lower chain speed).
 
Last edited:
 
Top