Barns and shop layouts

[rbargeron]

I'll try to take some pics sometime - maybe Sunday.

My saltbox extends down the land slope - the main floor is 46w x 40d with two 18' doors on the 46' front side. The front is partially visible in <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/forumfiles/2-106952-5450withblower.jpg>This picture</A>.

There is also a 46x20 downstairs level with rear access. The front half of the main floor is concrete slab on grade. The back half is concrete over 16ga steel deck. Deck supports are C15x30 steel beams. Downstairs ceiling clearance is about 8' under the beams.

The roof trusses are regular triangles - they are supported by two 46' steel beams (S12x29), one along the front over the doors, and the other 30' back. Regular stick framing extends the roof from the trusses down past the rear edge of the main floor, making te saltbox shape.

This building has been a work in progress for 13 years - did almost everything myself - including the structural design and erecting the steel.

Concrete: Foundation including downstairs deadwall - 56 cu yd, Floor slabs total: 32 cu yd Steel: 13,000 pounds (used - great price) Lotsa wood for the shell.

From the outside, it looks like a wooden barn - but it isn't all wood/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[s1120]

Ya, I would like to see some pics also. And that is one STRANGE looking snowblower! How old is it?

 

[rbargeron]

Here's a pic looking toward the front (taken this morning - not very good camera technique)

 

[rbargeron]

Here's one taken standing in the right door looking toward the back. You can see the scissors trusses - they are 8:12 on top, 4:12 on the bottom - give about 5 1/2 ft extra headroom at the center. The roof is asphalt shingles on the front part, corrugated panels on the back with two rows of white translucent panels - gives a good light level inside.

 

[MarkV]

Dick, Very, very nice./w3tcompact/icons/love.gif

MarkV

 

[Timd]

Is the rear carrying beam clear span? Must have been fun to put that up by yourself. I'm still having trouble visualizing the side wall framing (never built anything with trusses). I should probably buy a new edition of Modern Carpentry which would have more on truss construction than my 80's edition. Are the side walls rectangular platform framed and then the truss just goes on top of the wall plate?

When I look at all the stuff I have shoehorned into my shop/garage, I think that like most of us even if I built
something <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.miracletruss.com/comm_addl.html#/>this big</A> (C-14), I'd still have to hang things from the ceiling.

Timd

 

[rbargeron]

No the rear beam is not clear span - it is supported on 3 steel 6x6 tube columns, placed for minimum disruption of the floor plan. The columns are located over the mid-spans of the steel beams under the floor. In the workbay photo, you can see a column at the far end of the workbench (yellow air hose reel this side of it) There's another column beyond the suspended furnace. The third one is 4' in from the left end (just this side of a stairwell). All three are welded solidly to the beam and have flanges bolted thru the steel-deck slab. The beams are actually 44' long, ending before they reach the side walls - the gable ends of the building carry no loads at all - they're just stick-framed panels with 2x6's on 24" centers.

The long beams were put up using my L345DT Kubota with 1720 FEL - chained the beams to the bucket, lifted and rested them on the columns (about 1400lb each) - leaving the tractor in position until a few welds were in place. The chains hung down the back side of the bucket - out at the front edge the weight was more than the loader could lift. Also had a 6' rotary cutter on the 3ph for counterweight.

I found that having an idea of where to put everything was good, but moving everything in was the best way to really figure out the placement that works best. Even with plenty of floorspace, it's nice not to waste any. That way you have more room for old BMW's /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Dick Bargeron

 

[rbargeron]

Peter - regarding, slab details, reinforcement, surface finish & floor drains:

Slabs are 4" thick 4200 lb fiberglass concrete with 10ga wire mesh and control joints at 20' (would put the control joints at 10' another time to be sure all cracks were at the joints)

Regular power-trowel finish - no sealer or coating. I find that commercial absorbent lifts oil stains fine. Also spilled fuel attacks coatings, and they're too slippery. Fiberglass gives a good friction surface without extra steps. (also ups the concrete strength a bit)

There are floor drains centered in each 20x20 forward area, slope is imperceptible except water will find them. Some codes no longer allow garage floor drains without containment.

BTW, the woodshop occupies the basement level of the house - well away from the wheeled equipment world./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[rbargeron]

Timd - more pics of the shop - usually a worse mess than this.

 

[rbargeron]

reverse angle standing by the other lift post

 

[rbargeron]

Paul B - yup, strange it is. It's at least 20 years old - it needs a high-speed rear pto which is getting rare these days. My tractor didn't have one so I <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showflat.pl?Cat=&Board=owning&Number=102451&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=all&vc=1>ADDED A 2-SPEED PTO</A> a couple of weeks ago.

Only other pull-type snowblower I've seen was made by Normand (Canada I think) and was 2-stage, 7 feet wide.

 

[Pks]

Dick,

How do you open those 18ft doors? In another photo, I thought I saw an automatic door opener (right/wrong)? If you are useing a door opener, how'd you set it up off center of the bay with the lift?

 

[rbargeron]

Hi Peter - the openers are Chamberlains. Each door is 18' x 7 1/2' - and has a torsion-spring winder. On torsion winders, the cable reels are on a common shaft, so doors of any width run level. On the lift bay, the opener is well off center and the torsion spring anchor is too. The door works fine - even without the opener, a few pounds anywhere on the door will send it up.

To get the door out of the way when open, I considered sloping the upper tracks - but that would have meant 9 or 10 scissors trusses and too much attic space lost. By placing the lift posts 20' from the door, only the longest vehicles need the door lowered a bit for clearance.

 

[Pks]

Hmm, that gives me some ideas for my existing door and the for the 12x11ft door that will go in the new barn.

Thanks

Peter

 

[looch]

There's a NH dealer on my to work with a small Boomer that has pull-type blower on it. I'll see if I can get the name of it. By the way, it's red.

 

[rbargeron]

There's a red Canadian brand I've seen photos of on AgDealer - the brand is Normand. It was a pull-type but may have been altered?

 

[looch]

I did a search this morning - <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.cienormand.com/soufnina.htm>not altered</A>. But the one I saw was smaller than this.

 

[hwp]

I am always on the lookout for ideas that I can borrow. When we were looking for a new property we came across one that had a full length drain across the front of the garage. I tucked that idea away as I thought it would be useful some day. Well the property we bought needed some development and one of the things I did before we paved the driveway was put a concrete apron on the front of the garage that has a full length drain. This collects the water coming from the crown of the driveway and also collects the water from the garage does does not go into the floor drains. I find it works very well so I thought I would share the idea with you.

 

[rbargeron]

Paul - thanks for the link - that Normand is a big unit - cuts 92" width. I emailed them to ask if it's available in the states. I'm also looking forward to knowing more about the smaller one you saw. Hope you'll have a chance to check it out.

 

[bgott]

I need something like that. Are the gutter and grates something you can buy prefab or do you have to build them yourself?