Barn door advise?

[Musky50]

I am new to barn repair, so thanks in advance for your help. I purchased 20 acres with a 40' x 60' tobacco barn on it. The previous owner had taken both the 40' ends off up to 12' and just used the barn as a big shelter house. I have replaced one end with oak back to original. It has 3 bays a 12' wide bay on each side and a 16' bay in the center. I would like your experienced thoughts on doors as i have tractor and equipment in one of the 12' bays and my camper in the center. I would like to have access to all 3 bays. Would you go with hinged doors or sliders, what type wood would you build them from?

 

[newbury]

Of the two I'd go with sliders. Roll up or overheads would be nicer.

 

[PILOON]

Slider should be less costly than roll up and if in a snow area forget hinged as that calls for a lot of snow clearing.
Slider is basically a wall panel attached to a set of wheels rolling in a track and can be home made while rollup is a factory product. Also for a tractor and RV you would need oversized which gets pricey.
For a big slider the only difference is the height at which you attach the hardware (and perhaps an extra roller or 2)

 

[BoylermanCT]

My place came with a 40x50 barn built in the 1800's, and the previous owner had boarded up the main opening with several sheets of plywood with a small people door in the middle. I built two 4.5'x8.5' doors from locally milled rough cut hemlock and hung them on tracks. Very easy to do, no maintenance, no issues. Hinges will sag over time, so I would avoid them. Rollup is good too, if you have a modern barn - would not look good on my barn.

 

[zzvyb6]

I have 4 large bays in my machinery shed that I made 12' wide by 10' tall sliding doors for. They ride two apiece on a double track, so I can have any two open at the same time, either neighbors or ends. I made the doors from 10' by 4' sheets of T1-11 obtained from Menards. They are framed by 2x4' laid sideways so they are not thick and run nicely on the double track rails. Mine are sideways to the weather so I don't worry about rain or snow interference. They run tight to the top, sides and ground over a concrete floor and apron. The bottoms are not restrained, just hang by gravity and can be secured by straps and turnbuckles if I want it locked.

 

[MF283]

Slider get's my vote!

 

[Musky50]

I have 4 large bays in my machinery shed that I made 12' wide by 10' tall sliding doors for. They ride two apiece on a double track, so I can have any two open at the same time, either neighbors or ends. I made the doors from 10' by 4' sheets of T1-11 obtained from Menards. They are framed by 2x4' laid sideways so they are not thick and run nicely on the double track rails. Mine are sideways to the weather so I don't worry about rain or snow interference. They run tight to the top, sides and ground over a concrete floor and apron. The bottoms are not restrained, just hang by gravity and can be secured by straps and turnbuckles if I want it locked.

This sounds like what i have envisioned. My 2 side bays will be 12' x 12' and the center will be 2, 8' doors sliding to each side.
I have plenty of room and can hang my double track on the inside where it would be out of the weather. Since all doors will slide to within the inside dimension, does anyone see a problem with inside track hanging?

How many rollers should I put on the 12' doors and how many on the 8' doors? Should I hang the 12' doors on the track close est to the beam or does it matter?

I plan to use rough cut pine so as to maintain the original look of the barn. So if I use 1''x6''x12' on a frame of 2''x4'' frame on its side. This will have me at approximately 3 full inches thick on each door. What track of track layout do I need to be looking at?


Again THANKS guys for all you help!!!

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

The whole door is going to be 3" thick? Or just at the frame?

I'll add my vote for the track setup. Swinging doors get blocked by snow, and can get caught by the wind and slammed hard against... well, whatever is in the way, which might be you, or a child.

 

[Musky50]

2'' thick rough cut 2''x 6'' layed on its side with 1'' x 8'' nailed to the face

 

[BoylermanCT]

Each door should have 2 rollers, one on each end. There are 2 styles of rollers / track, square and round. I went with round since the wheels were slipper plastic vs metal wheels on the square track. The round track setup is very quiet and smooth. I envisioned the metal wheels on square track being noisier. I bought my track, wheels and hardware at Tractor Supply.

Any reason you are going with 2" thick boards for the door? It will be very heavy. I used 1" thick rough cut with 1" trim, and it is very strong. One word of advice is to let the wood dry completely before building the doors. If too wet, it will shrink and you will end up with gaps between the boards. You could also use tongue and groove boards or shiplap to avoid this problem.

 

[GLyford]

If you run the doors inside the walls, then you can't stack or hang anything against those walls (unless you make it a double wall for a sort of pocket door). Why limit what you can do with the covered space before you even get to put anything in it...?

 

[GLyford]

Oh, and most of the track instructions show you how to make flashing or a section of roof to go over it and protect it...

 

[oldballs]

Fence doors, Barn doors, House doors,..........they are all a PITA. i'd think twice about the need/value of the door before putting it up. But, if necessary I'd go with the track/slider ones. That's my advice.:2cents:

 

[coldsteelva]

Another vote here for Trolley doors (sliding): they are relatively low maintenance (keep the track lubed and clean) - the hardware can be moved from 'door' to 'door' if one needs replacing, won't sag since it hangs from above. I have an old 20x30 pole barn and the lower portion free floats (no lower track/guide) and to prevent swinging/banging in a storm - a simple hasp style lock on the lower door edge.

 

[Musky50]

Fence doors, Barn doors, House doors,..........they are all a PITA. i'd think twice about the need/value of the door before putting it up. But, if necessary I'd go with the track/slider ones. That's my advice.:2cents:

LOL same thing an old farmer told me today, "what are you trying to keep in or out?". I guess I'm just trying to keep the honest guy honest. Dont want anyone borrowing my toys.............lol

sounds like most are saying make the frames out of the 1'' boards and the put the 1'' cover boards to it, making the door 2'' thick?

I was doodling today and I think I will run the cover boards on the diagonal.

I have enough oak 2x12x16 to run my track beam on it. It sure wont be easy to get those beasts up there and bolted on.

 

[oldballs]

If I picture it correctly, that's what a FEL is for. Be careful though.

 

[trihounds]

Your train of thought aligns nicely with what I am building now: a triple track for 3 overlapping doors, each 9.5 feet wide x 11 feet tall. I had a steel shop make up 3/8 thick steel brackets bent at 90 degrees, 24" centers that hold the three tracks. So far so good, though I still have the 2 other doors to build.

Wood is 1" x 12" rough cut pine with the "back" being simple vertical boards (with lap joints rabbetted into the wood so there is no gap or light shining through) and the decorative 1x 12 ripped to 6" glued and screwed (from behind) on the front.

Tracks are round and wheels are round and made out of some slippery plastic.