deezler
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2012
- Messages
- 3,481
- Location
- Southeast MI
- Tractor
- Cub Cadet 7305, Kioti CK3510seh TLB
I just poured my rat wall first, THEN leveled and compacted the entire barn interior for the main slab. I set my rat wall top height to the exact level of the bottom of the slab, so the slab pour could just go right atop the rat wall.
If you have good compactable material, you should be able to compact the middle area and have a deeper thickened edge zone compacted also. But you could always use some scrap wood to make a crude form also, holding the main middle area together for compaction.
Question, why do you feel you need a thickened edge slab? If you pour 4-5" thick or more, with #2 rebar on 2x2' grids, your slab will be very strong and a thickened edge wont really do anything extra for you (except take more prep work and cost more in concrete). Just my opinion. Also recommend adding fiber to the mix, typically only $7/yard more. And plan on cutting control joints 1/4 to 1/3 of the way through your slab thickness on a 10x10' grid the day after your pour. This keeps the cracks (all concrete cracks) exactly where you want them, and nowhere else.
If you have good compactable material, you should be able to compact the middle area and have a deeper thickened edge zone compacted also. But you could always use some scrap wood to make a crude form also, holding the main middle area together for compaction.
Question, why do you feel you need a thickened edge slab? If you pour 4-5" thick or more, with #2 rebar on 2x2' grids, your slab will be very strong and a thickened edge wont really do anything extra for you (except take more prep work and cost more in concrete). Just my opinion. Also recommend adding fiber to the mix, typically only $7/yard more. And plan on cutting control joints 1/4 to 1/3 of the way through your slab thickness on a 10x10' grid the day after your pour. This keeps the cracks (all concrete cracks) exactly where you want them, and nowhere else.