B6000 Kubota front PTO

[SSdoxie]

I've seen a few different coupling styles used.
2 identical sprockets set face to face on the shafts with double roller chain wrapped around them.
2 PTO yokes with a u-joint
If both shafts are identical in diameter and have same spline or key way, then use a larger collar cut for the key or spline then slipped over both shafts and locked with set screws.

I think the Lovejoy has the best in durabilty because they hard rubber inset helps to absrob the firing impluses from the the engine. If you need to cut out the front loader frame for the pump then build a steel box to go over it to protect the pump.

 

[boxer246]

Ok been trying to get this thing a little farther along in the last few days, got on the lathe and have been working to get this hub finished. So far the hub is finished, now I just have to insert the shaft into it and weld it in place hopefully with little to no run-out. Here's a couple photos, more to come as I get it farther along.

So you can see the front frame member is going to be an interference when I get the Lovejoy mounted....so I will probably have to cut the frame somewhat.

 

[Lodur]

Some pics of my B6100 with a Brantly SL 500 FEL.
The hydraul FEL runs of the "ordinary" hyd pump.
Switching between 3pt and FEL is done by the diverter vent. That is my headache today since there is a leak inside the vent. This makes the 3PT to slowly sink during ordinary operation. I guess I have to disassemble the vent and swap O-rings...

 

[boxer246]

I finally got this loader project all done, got some new tubing with fittings made, and received all new hyd hoses so now its all together.
Fired it up today, fully expecting all four hyd cylinders to leak like a sieve, since they've been sitting for like 20 years outside. But, lo and behold, they did not leak, but I could initially only get the bucket to curl, couldn't raise the loader up at all. So as I mentioned originally, I am using this old AICO two spool control valve, and I think its trashed.
It will now raise up and curl, but it does so slowly, and jerkily, and there is a bunch of "sponginess" or "give" to both the curl and raise/lower movements. In other words, when I raise up the bucket, and put my weight on it and bounce, I see the cylinder rods move in and out a couple inches......almost like there is air in the cylinders. I imagine this all relates back to the old junk AICO valve. SO, I am going to order a new two spool valve, this one looks good to me: https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-8283&catname=hydraulic
Hopefully that will get this thing working like it should. Otherwise it turned out pretty good I think, should be a useful little beast now! Heres a few photos:

 

[J_J]

Why not bleed the air out of the cyl by operating the valves fully about 5 times.

If the pump does not have any suction leaks, the air should be gone and things should operate.

Install a hyd gage in the IN port of the FEL valve and check and set the FEL valve relief.

If you are going to order another valve, this valve will serve you better, and it has float and regen.

Surplus Center - 2 SPOOL COMPACT 10 GPM JOYSTICK CONTROL VALVE

Sure it is more money, but will do more, and it is joystick controlled.

 

[Leejohn]

Good job!!! Looks good!!! I would not buy the new valve just yet, get all the air out and maybe it well work good.

 

[boxer246]

JJ that valve looks great, but what the heck is float and regen? Is that really something I need for an extra $140? Price is now becoming an issue, you know how everything begins to add up on one of these projects.

Well I have cycled both the curl and lift twenty or thirty times, but its still the same...It lifts jerky and inconsistent and sometimes refuses to raise all the way up. I might take the valve off and take it apart to clean/rebuild it if possible. I assume those spools have O-rings or something?

Another thing.....the screw cap to the fluid reservoir.....after filling the "towers" which double as fluid reservoirs, and cylcling this thing through a bunch of times, I noticed that a bit of air pressure would build up.....i.e. if I removed the cap while running the tractor, it would release a puff of air. Is this right? Shouldn't the dead air space on top of the fluid, in the reservoir be pretty much ambient pressure?

I checked the suction line.....all fittings seem tight...is there a way to tell if air is being let in?

 

[J_J]

If you can look in the reservoir, you may see tiny bubbles and that will expand the the fluid volume.

The cap should have a vent or a vent for the reservoir somewhere.

Do the hyd gage thing first and see if the valves will let the cyl build up pressure.

Float is something you will use to back drag, and float the bucket which will follow the conture of the ground. Regen will let you have a fast dump on the curl down.

Just about every loader valves have these functions.

Is it worth it? That is your choice, but I think you would like both functions.

 

[boxer246]

Ah ha. Well those actually do sound like useful functions. I'll have to see about getting a gauge set up....I have a couple gauges around, what pressure range gauge would I need?

There does not appear to be any vents anywhere on either reserviour, I noticed the cap on the left side reserviour is not original...maybe the original one had a vent. The caps for the fill ports are simply pipe plug fittings.

 

[J_J]

A 3000 psi hyd gage set, something like this.