K
kingoflawns
Guest
All good information on the 3030, with the exception of the tires. I demmoed a 3030 without filled rears, the citrus star is a must, it feels like a different tractor with the extra weight, way more stable!!
B3030 Mowing and Snow Removal
- Thread starter solrheat
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K
kingoflawns
Guest
All good information on the 3030, with the exception of the tires. I demmoed a 3030 without filled rears, the citrus star is a must, it feels like a different tractor with the extra weight, way more stable!!
Toolguy
Platinum Member
I second the filled rear tires. Mine have Rim Guard in them. With that and the rear blade on I have never felt the need for more weight on the rear. A ballast box would be better for close quarters work so see if the dealer will throw one in with the deal. It can't hurt to ask. All he can say is no. If he does, no big deal. Try it for a while, as is, and if you think you need the extra weight you can always get one later.
As far as using a rear blade, the trick is to angle it. If you keep it straight it will follow every dip and make them worse. When it is angled it spans the dips and pulls the high spots down. With just a few passes you can level just about anything, within reason.
As far as using a rear blade, the trick is to angle it. If you keep it straight it will follow every dip and make them worse. When it is angled it spans the dips and pulls the high spots down. With just a few passes you can level just about anything, within reason.
Toolguy
Platinum Member
I second the filled rear tires. Mine have Rim Guard in them. With that and the rear blade on I have never felt the need for more weight on the rear. A ballast box would be better for close quarters work so see if the dealer will throw one in with the deal. It can't hurt to ask. All he can say is no. If he does, no big deal. Try it for a while, as is, and if you think you need the extra weight you can always get one later.
As far as using a rear blade, the trick is to angle it. If you keep it straight it will follow every dip and make them worse. When it is angled it spans the dips and pulls the high spots down. With just a few passes you can level just about anything, within reason.
As far as using a rear blade, the trick is to angle it. If you keep it straight it will follow every dip and make them worse. When it is angled it spans the dips and pulls the high spots down. With just a few passes you can level just about anything, within reason.
Stef
Platinum Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Now as to those tires...should I internally ballast the turf tires or get chains for traction when snow blowing? Do they even make chains for those bad boys? )</font>
You won't need any. With a blower you don't need the same traction as with a snowplow. As to fill the rear tires... mmmm... it's a good thing for loader work (or any other earth moving job like: box blade, rear blade, etc.) but if you want to mow... I'm not sure I would do that.
KubotaOne is right about hydraulic rotator and deflector. I have both too and I wouldn't do it without them.
About the trailer, I had one: 6.5'x16'. With a 60" MMM mounted on it was tight (1.5" on each side). If you plan to get a 72" MMM, I'm not sure but maybe with the chute raised up it can fit but it's only a guess. You don't have to worry about the offset between front and rear wheels width. They share, more or less, the same line. I never had any problem getting on the trailer.
You won't need any. With a blower you don't need the same traction as with a snowplow. As to fill the rear tires... mmmm... it's a good thing for loader work (or any other earth moving job like: box blade, rear blade, etc.) but if you want to mow... I'm not sure I would do that.
KubotaOne is right about hydraulic rotator and deflector. I have both too and I wouldn't do it without them.
About the trailer, I had one: 6.5'x16'. With a 60" MMM mounted on it was tight (1.5" on each side). If you plan to get a 72" MMM, I'm not sure but maybe with the chute raised up it can fit but it's only a guess. You don't have to worry about the offset between front and rear wheels width. They share, more or less, the same line. I never had any problem getting on the trailer.
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Stef
Platinum Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Now as to those tires...should I internally ballast the turf tires or get chains for traction when snow blowing? Do they even make chains for those bad boys? )</font>
You won't need any. With a blower you don't need the same traction as with a snowplow. As to fill the rear tires... mmmm... it's a good thing for loader work (or any other earth moving job like: box blade, rear blade, etc.) but if you want to mow... I'm not sure I would do that.
KubotaOne is right about hydraulic rotator and deflector. I have both too and I wouldn't do it without them.
About the trailer, I had one: 6.5'x16'. With a 60" MMM mounted on it was tight (1.5" on each side). If you plan to get a 72" MMM, I'm not sure but maybe with the chute raised up it can fit but it's only a guess. You don't have to worry about the offset between front and rear wheels width. They share, more or less, the same line. I never had any problem getting on the trailer.
You won't need any. With a blower you don't need the same traction as with a snowplow. As to fill the rear tires... mmmm... it's a good thing for loader work (or any other earth moving job like: box blade, rear blade, etc.) but if you want to mow... I'm not sure I would do that.
KubotaOne is right about hydraulic rotator and deflector. I have both too and I wouldn't do it without them.
About the trailer, I had one: 6.5'x16'. With a 60" MMM mounted on it was tight (1.5" on each side). If you plan to get a 72" MMM, I'm not sure but maybe with the chute raised up it can fit but it's only a guess. You don't have to worry about the offset between front and rear wheels width. They share, more or less, the same line. I never had any problem getting on the trailer.
Stef
Platinum Member
Stef
Platinum Member
I found something to show you the width of the front and rear wheels. I have to mention though that I have spacers mounted on the rear wheels so usually a rear wheel is 3" closer on each side.
K
kingoflawns
Guest
Stef, i also have the hydraulic rotator control but not the deflector, could you post a photo of the deflector? Thankx, Scott.
K
kingoflawns
Guest
Stef, i also have the hydraulic rotator control but not the deflector, could you post a photo of the deflector? Thankx, Scott.
One more question on a trailer: Can I get by with a single 5000# axle or do I need dual axles? I would be transporting with either the snow blower (2800# total) or FEL with Pallet Forks but I can't find the weight of FEL+PFs. It would be nice If I could get by with just a 12ft single 3500# axle trailer, but a 14ft x 83" with dual 3500# axles may be better.
One more question on a trailer: Can I get by with a single 5000# axle or do I need dual axles? I would be transporting with either the snow blower (2800# total) or FEL with Pallet Forks but I can't find the weight of FEL+PFs. It would be nice If I could get by with just a 12ft single 3500# axle trailer, but a 14ft x 83" with dual 3500# axles may be better.
bandit67
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2004
- Messages
- 1,610
- Location
- Lake Hartwell, SC
- Tractor
- 2012 B3000 HSDCC 2020 Z251 Zero Turn
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( One more question on a trailer: Can I get by with a single 5000# axle or do I need dual axles? I would be transporting with either the snow blower (2800# total) or FEL with Pallet Forks but I can't find the weight of FEL+PFs. It would be nice If I could get by with just a 12ft single 3500# axle trailer, but a 14ft x 83" with dual 3500# axles may be better. )</font>
Go for the dual axle, it's a much better tracking trailer. I've used both types with smaller machines, and I'd never go back to the single axle. Sounds like you'll be trailering regularly, so go for the larger trailer, rather than a small single axle that might barely handle the load - you'll be a lot safer with the bigger trailer when you've got to hit the brakes hard after some jerk pulls out in front of you. Make sure you get trailer brakes, too - should come standard with any dual axle trailer. And dual 3500# axles should be the minimum trailer to consider, IMO and based on my experience with trailers over the last 20+ years.
Go for the dual axle, it's a much better tracking trailer. I've used both types with smaller machines, and I'd never go back to the single axle. Sounds like you'll be trailering regularly, so go for the larger trailer, rather than a small single axle that might barely handle the load - you'll be a lot safer with the bigger trailer when you've got to hit the brakes hard after some jerk pulls out in front of you. Make sure you get trailer brakes, too - should come standard with any dual axle trailer. And dual 3500# axles should be the minimum trailer to consider, IMO and based on my experience with trailers over the last 20+ years.
bandit67
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2004
- Messages
- 1,610
- Location
- Lake Hartwell, SC
- Tractor
- 2012 B3000 HSDCC 2020 Z251 Zero Turn
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( One more question on a trailer: Can I get by with a single 5000# axle or do I need dual axles? I would be transporting with either the snow blower (2800# total) or FEL with Pallet Forks but I can't find the weight of FEL+PFs. It would be nice If I could get by with just a 12ft single 3500# axle trailer, but a 14ft x 83" with dual 3500# axles may be better. )</font>
Go for the dual axle, it's a much better tracking trailer. I've used both types with smaller machines, and I'd never go back to the single axle. Sounds like you'll be trailering regularly, so go for the larger trailer, rather than a small single axle that might barely handle the load - you'll be a lot safer with the bigger trailer when you've got to hit the brakes hard after some jerk pulls out in front of you. Make sure you get trailer brakes, too - should come standard with any dual axle trailer. And dual 3500# axles should be the minimum trailer to consider, IMO and based on my experience with trailers over the last 20+ years.
Go for the dual axle, it's a much better tracking trailer. I've used both types with smaller machines, and I'd never go back to the single axle. Sounds like you'll be trailering regularly, so go for the larger trailer, rather than a small single axle that might barely handle the load - you'll be a lot safer with the bigger trailer when you've got to hit the brakes hard after some jerk pulls out in front of you. Make sure you get trailer brakes, too - should come standard with any dual axle trailer. And dual 3500# axles should be the minimum trailer to consider, IMO and based on my experience with trailers over the last 20+ years.
K
kingoflawns
Guest
Single axles bounce bad, go for the dual axle, its a better set up by far.
K
kingoflawns
Guest
Single axles bounce bad, go for the dual axle, its a better set up by far.
Stef
Platinum Member
Stef
Platinum Member
kingoflawns: I'm not sure about what you're looking for but I have this pic of the deflector. This is the only close up that I have (cylinders are removed right now). I hope it'll give you a good idea.
solrheat: dual axle without hesitation.
solrheat: dual axle without hesitation.
K
kingoflawns
Guest
Thankx stef, good shot, i assume the loader control stick operates the deflector as well. Im wondering why its not on my 2782 as i paid well over 4 grand for it? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
K
kingoflawns
Guest
Thankx stef, good shot, i assume the loader control stick operates the deflector as well. Im wondering why its not on my 2782 as i paid well over 4 grand for it? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
