b2910 flasher/hazard fuse shorting out

[dlabrie]

I'm not familiar with your tractor at all but I have one question.
How many lights do you have on your tractor?
Just on the rear or front and rear, usually you will have red turn and flashers on the rear and amber to the front.
Some units will have an amber lens in the front and a red lens to the rear, but many have separate forward and rearward facing light.
They are normally wired in parallel one front and one rear.
Many of your readings seemed to me like you are reading through a bulb.

There is one set of amber, directional/hazard lights on the back. There are also red running lights on a different circuit on the back as well. you can see them in this picture...

 

[dlabrie]

Well taking the cowl and instrument cluster apart was fun...not.
This is what I first found when I got in there...


I got that cleaned up and tested the Rw and Gw wires = no change
I unplugged the Hazard switch and tested the Rw and Gw wires = no change
I plugged the switch back in and unplugged the Flasher unit and tested the Rw and Gw wires = no change

This is what I found when I checked the wires going to the flasher unit The B wire and the Brown wire are stripped...


I separated all of the unplugged flasher unit wires so they wern't touching anything and tested the Rw and Gw wires = no change

 

[bill18163]

Attached is info that might help. I have the manual for the B2910. If you need anything else let me know.

 

[dlabrie]

Attached is info that might help. I have the manual for the B2910. If you need anything else let me know.

Thank you.

 

[dlabrie]

I did a test on the switch(meter set at 200 ohms). Do these results mean anything?


In the 3rd box, that is 43.2 with switch on and 50.1 with it off

 

[countryguy1225]

I did a test on the switch(meter set at 200 ohms). Do these results mean anything?
View attachment 577654

In the 3rd box, that is 43.2 with switch on and 50.1 with it off

OK, looking at your results for 43/50 Ohm readings, are either/any of the hazard the bulbs back in? 13ohms is close to the 10/11 readings from a few pages back. They do say that the low ohm readings is due to the bulbs.

From the post above where you did the pics and some detailed testing, you noted you tested ohms w/ the dash unplugged, then plugged the dash back in and tried w/ the flasher unplugged. Did you happen to try the OHM reading w/ both the dash unplugged and the Flasher unit unplugged at the same time?

I know were spinning around a bit here.. I really hoped we would have solved this by now but we're looking now into a rodent situation and those can be a pia to solve.

 

[dlabrie]

OK, looking at your results for 43/50 Ohm readings, are either/any of the hazard the bulbs back in? 13ohms is close to the 10/11 readings from a few pages back. They do say that the low ohm readings is due to the bulbs.

From the post above where you did the pics and some detailed testing, you noted you tested ohms w/ the dash unplugged, then plugged the dash back in and tried w/ the flasher unplugged. Did you happen to try the OHM reading w/ both the dash unplugged and the Flasher unit unplugged at the same time?

I know were spinning around a bit here.. I really hoped we would have solved this by now but we're looking now into a rodent situation and those can be a pia to solve.

Neither of the hazard bulbs are back on the tractor. The switch was off the tractor when tested. I did not test the Rw and Gw with both the flasher unit and switch removed at the same time. I'll try that tomorrow.

 

[countryguy1225]

Thanks. I looked at the diagrams last night again. One of the other posters noted that it looked like a bulb reading and I do agree. Rechecking , There are several indicator bulbs shown in the dash. Those would also read the 10 ohms (or so ). So I am curious about reading the left side and right side of the fuse with both the flasher and dash connectors unplugged. And it needs to be the connector that runs the dash bulbs. I am thinking weæ±*e chasing gremlins a bit and the next step is to
Confirm readings quickly.
Buy replacement flasher (optional)
Put a fuse in
Test again.

You may find that the rodent mess clean up and wire strips repair caused this.

Neither of the hazard bulbs are back on the tractor. The switch was off the tractor when tested. I did not test the Rw and Gw with both the flasher unit and switch removed at the same time. I'll try that tomorrow.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I could be wrong but....

I'm thinking that you are going about this the hard way. I was taught that you attach a light bulb where the blown fuse goes. Activate the circuit. The bulb should be on as it's taking the place of the fuse that would normally blow at this point.

Then you start separating wiring harness plugs from that circuit starting at the end until the light goes out. Once the light goes out you've narrowed down where the problem is located. Usually by this time I'm down to within a few minutes of finding the problem

If the light is still on by the time you get to the switch or flasher then the issue is in the wiring between one of those two points and the fuse. I've also seen issues in the back of the fuse box so if you need to go that far check there too.

Above all take your time, proceed logically, and have fun!

 

[gimmodog]

I thinking you fixed the problem by repairing the 2 stripped wires. looking at previous diagrams posted the brown wire ran from the flasher to the switch which would have voltage on it. with it and the black (ground) wire being stripped that is where it was passing the excess current.